Duncan

cool thread. guessing I'll need this one day

maybe your girlfriend is screaming?

most nissan stuff is switched on the earth side. so when you are turning on the parker lights you are earthing one side. the other side generally has ful time + or just + when ignition is on. I guess parkers are the former (always +) so you can leave them on if you need to. while this is safe, it means that if the earth wire to the headlight is damaged and touches bare metal somewhere, it will turn it on. I guess that is what happened. anyway....if you want to work it out yourself grab a multimeter. you should expect to find continuity (0 resistance) between the negative at the globe and the chasis, even with the switch off (if you don't the light should not be on!). From there trace back the wiring until you find a break/damaged wiring...must be there somewhere. when you've found and repaired the wiring you should no longer have continuity at the globe unless the switch is on. or, take the globes out and take it to an auto sparky at your leisure.

no idea about the switch....but I do have spare units for 32 gtr if you want one.

yeah they are handy. But I'll be stuffed if I can find a set with the common nissan sizes 8x1.25, 8x1.5 10x1.25, 10.x1.5. Anyone got a set with the right sizes, let me know where you got them! Ben I'm probably going to buy myself a tool chest set as a new house present. was looking at the ones with expanded foam insets so you can see what is missing

Bleed your brakes, check your tyres, and put some new oil in!

yes, unless you can find one closer. it is about as flat as the sydney harbour bridge if that is a problem. bare head, right?

sorry Ando, Kel and I need to be in different groups....2 drivers, 1 car thanks for putting this together!

where were you doing donuts?

wierd as. I have r32 gtr front and rear (had on front, have on rear) on mine, they are the same size as 33 gtst. is yours S2?

excellent result....but have QLD gone metric yet? what is a "hp"?

sorry for the delay, all posts in the DIY section are moderated to keep them on topic. Your post has been approved now http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/In...97#entry5322897

Tom, I'd guess your bad brake pedal is just more air in the lines somewhere....try more bleeding. I've never had to bleed the abs even when the lines are totally empty....not saying it can't happen just that it never has for me. Tim, I'm using the A1RM on the rear, they work fine, excellent price but are very dusty. I think I should have chosen HP-X because I don't think I am stressing them enough to need the A1RM

just get someone to push the brakes hard while you watch the master cylinder move...it's pretty bad! then consider that the pistons in the brakes themselves move about 3-5mm for all of the distance the pedal travels. If the master cylinder is moving 3-5mm as well that means there is as much flex as there is actual braking in your pedal movement!

sorry mate didn't see your post....the stuff was here within 7 days of the auction finishing. better than many local ebayers can manage. yes it was pricey but it was literally they only one I have seen for sale anywhere

Thanks everybody for your response to this day. We are now full, so please do not send any further payments. Any payments we receive after today will be refunded. We are happy to run a waiting list for spots, so if you still want to coming along please post up your interest for the waiting list. It is great to be able to fill this event, and it means we can afford to keep running them - so we will organise another one (or maybe 2!) for next year.

yeah some things are very free and some are very restricted. they key restrictions for a 32 gtr are standard turbos, standard cams, standard afms. The turbos will limit you to 300-330kw at about 24psi. Also standard suspension arms everywhere (except hicas that you can remove). I have and would always have a kill switch....plenty of opportunities to und upsidedown in a tree. As for tyres, best you can get. generally medium compound dunlop dz03.

I've never seen a "personal import plate" either, is that an official compliance plate in the engine bay? That's the deal.....almost certainly the people who inspected it are not familiar with the rules. He needs to try elsewhere, maybe by phone first (I have a 15yo import with no compliance plate etc). or maybe start with nsw rta and get some paperwork he can show the blus slip guys

not 32, 33 or 34 gtr not 33 or 34 gtst/gtt

Import rules are national not state based, and I'm pretty sure WA has not seceeded yet. If it does not have a compliance plate it came in under: 1. personal import 2. 15yo import (before it was shut down) 3. race rally import. if you do not know which scheme it came under, DOTARS who approve all imports will. Also WA's car rego department must know as well. 1 and 2 are eligible for full rego, 3 is not.

ahh the modified tool thread! we have a very similar looking tool for rear o2 sensor on a gtr..just cut across the end to make it an open spanner as well

yeah that's what i mean, it looked way too easy. but it is amazing how easily these and some other modern cars smash the barriers that used to define a "super quick" dedicated drag car. ANDRAs rules re license cage and chute look very dated these days

not the same...cheap bearings and they don't pivot (although it looks like it, that is just the adjuster).

the only thing to add....is go easy on the bashing if that is how you take them out...it is horribly bad for the bearings. Like Adam said one of those ball joint seperators (check out the cool tool thread) would be a safer way to do it.

have you been converted to drag racing now? It looked exciting