not at all...there is more to life these days than auto or manual. cvt system was very interesting once you got used to the car accelerating without the revs increasing
the UAS ones may look expensive, but they are a step above in quality compared to pretty much any other option.
these are the upper arms out of my race car, demonstrating why the pivoting arms are important
yes the list is not complete.....you will need stickers!
don't worry they are entry level type events. make sure the tyres have good tread if it includes wet events, and don't run brake pads that need warmth to work. Almost every event is over in 60 seconds and nothing has time to get hot
i agree it looks like its been spraying on the driveshaft, but it can still be engine oil from the filter. that is most likely, but there is also a diff oil seal at the end of the driveshaft that might be leaking.
what is it, power steer fluid, diff oil or engine oil
most likely just oil leak from an oil filter change, almost impossible not to spill oil on top of the diff.
step 1 as always is degrease it all and see if the leak returns
ouch...hopefully not too bad.
I would suspect rear wheel alignment first, was it checked before and if so what was the toe? Or even better what was the toe after the event?
The number of these cars being hustled safely around tracks says there is no basic issue across the model, so need to look for something bent or loose I think.
yeah true I guess, but it's a race car. I just earthed the relay and don't leave the car on IGN too often.
Alternatively considering yours is ground up rewire, just earth the fuel pump relay through a dash switch so you can control pumps on or off.
sorry I must mean something different. the unit came with a plug and about 7 wires. I don't know which wires I need to tap on the ECU, but the list above clarifies all except 1 - not sure what exactly I need to tap for the fuel?
an update.....
we (well maybe I) decided it could live with some more turbo lag with the SC to look after things down low.
So it is at Hills Motorsport getting a GTR T28 turbo and new manifold put on.
At the same time it became clear that it has a fair bit of blow by already, so we have order a set of forged bottom end bits from some wierd little japanese car guy in hokaido that used to race them. and a catch can to keep it sort of under control in the meantime.
can't see how you can get 0 compression without a valve problem.
and if there was something wrong with the "cambelt/camshaft" it would affect every cylinder the same way.
unlikely to be rings, even if installed incorrectly eg overlapped you would get a little compression.
assuming its a 33 gtst maybe a stuck hydraulic lifter? I don't know much about the hydraulic lifter setup.