Duncan

I bolt my ignitor where the coil pack cover bolts go. I'm sure loose or cable tied is sufficient but I prefer to keep it up in cooler air. Also don't forget to earth the coil pack loom.

did you get to the bottom of the problem?

A++ would read again. this thread delivers even 3 years later. w0rped did you ever get an answer about the double/white wire? maybe for gtr afms? And is there are clearer requirement for orange? any injector pulse or something else? my ecu is not on the instructions so I'm a bit stuck.

well, the simple answer is the synchros are there to look after the gap in revs between gears. eg if you shift from 1st to 2nd at about 40klm/h you will have to go from 5000rpm to 2500rpm. The quicker you move the gear shift and release the clutch, the less time the engine has to get from 5000 to 2500. So the best way to look after your gear box is: 1/ back off the throttle 2/ move the shifter from 1st to neutral 3/ let the revs drop from 5000 to 2500 (depends on gears and road speed of course, this is just an example) 4/ move the shifter from neutral to 2nd. If you do exactly that you will have basically no wear on the synchros...but you will have slow gear changes which is why all gearboxes have synchros these days. If you get the steps above right you also will not have to use the clutch but you may as well incase you miscalculate. Downchange is the opposite 1/ back off the throttle 2/ move the shifter from 2nd to neutral 3/ blip the throttle to 5000rpm (depends on gears and road speed of course, this is just an example) 4/ move the shifter from neutral to 1st. Once again, if you get it spot on the shifter will go straight in, and you won't need to use the clutch. In practice you should be able to do everything above with some practice, just use the clutch in case you get it wrong. Driving like this minimises the wear on the synchros, but once they are stuffed nothing apart from removing the box and replacing them really fixes it.

I think the best way is regular 4wd underpinnings, hilux seems the choice (there is a v8/hilux 4wd 260z running around hillclimbs). main problem with the gtr setup is that the driveshaft and front diff are in the sump....which means that setup has to fit on the bottom of the chosen motor, and the motor's location is fixed between the front wheels (can't really move forward or back). its an interesting idea, but the gtr setup just does not lend itself to the change

more good coverage for proper race cars...well done

also guessing....but I reckon that is all right except the bold bit. Unless it replaces the factory attessa controller it can only "bend" the input signals like everything else, which means it is probably more like "0 to 50 indicating how much more front drive you are getting than normal" as opposed to a fixed % I saw claims on the interweb that it creates fixed front torque, but that is not possible with the factory attessa computer.

indeed...it just makes it harder to have a car that can compete in multiple disciplines, which in turn discourages competitors. No doubt many of the rules are a very outdated attempt to keep very old cars competitive. But ultimately, if one class (SV) is half your entry list then something needs to be done. When I run CAMS there are going to be 3 classes: * Production Cars (run under current rules, they are fine for what they are). Also Tarmac Rally cars. Standard turbos, standard boost, standard size wheels, standard injectors/fuel pumps, afms. Currently an evo gift but they are the best production cars around right now. Measured and sealed motor required for racing. Pump Fuel only * Improved Production Cars (same as current rules but no intake restrictor. Their competitor numbers would go through the roof over night. Yes the 6 rx7s would have to retire but it is ludicrous that they are the only car that can win under current rules). Main limit on performance here is standard size wheels. Pump fuel or e85 only * Sports Sedans (current rules except 4wd do not have the ridiculous "can't modify the floorpan" rules. weight limits per capacity class is enough). Pump fuel, e85, race fuel, methanol, whatever...anything goes Those rules would be perfect for supersprints/superlap, hillclimb and racing....break down by class and capacity if necessary....one set of rules to bind them all! BTW my rules would certainly allow active aero in sports sedans. As per current, no changes to prod cars and minimal, fixed changes to aero in IPRA.

the cable tie holder rocks! rob, those warren and brown torque wrenches are great, I've had one for years. Anyone who is looking for a decent torque wench should look at those instead of the dodgy spring loaded ones. not able to be used by Neil though because one side of the car has left hand thread, and the W&B style can only measure torque in 1 direction chuckie...the spark plug gapper looks good too, I have seen similar before as a small disc with different sized gaps around the edge. How do they go for wear over time?

Pretty sad if a brand new car has one srping 15mm lower than the other....I know it has done competition but what did nissan have to say? In any case, custom springs would be the way to go if you are happy with the shocks. We have always run the targa cars pretty high to keep them off the road over big bumps

sorry don't know how to find out via fast....but there is a small o-ring on the oil pickup in the sump. can you post a pic of the oring with something for size reference

Don't forget that with a packaged car, all maintenance is tax and FBT free. So if for example you go to the track and get through a lot of tyres and brakes, its all pre tax. Also, fuel is pre-tax....depending on the fuel economy of the car that can add up to a lot. Re insurance, it is also pre-tax and generally much cheaper than you can get personally because the leasor will have substantial fleet discounts with the insurer. Donwnside is you can't choose the insurer so you get their conditions

wtf? I haven't seen an on topic post since about the first one. And if I banned everyone that has talked off topic crap and made personal attacks there would be no-one left on SAU. This thread is absolute rubbish.

nice!....she's a bit taily but I guess the wing will start to work when going quicker. BTW not the first spaceframe hyundai I've seen.....there's one in a workshop out penrith way....can't wait to see it on the track

moved from DIY section

that wasn't Neil driving, he sold the car a few years back. but it is an excellent example of how a car will just keep going straight ahead if you lock the brakes up....if the tyre isn't griping it doesn't make any difference where you point the steering wheel....

fark tangets you get some fun toys at work. And Michael you are only allowed in this thread if you are coming to NSW for some track days one day

32 gtr say nissan (and have fins), 33 gtst are sumitomo. both are near enough to the same other than those detail differences.

yeah I would go the whiteline plus next time for my use, but I don't think they are worth the effort for most. You just set them to max when you install them and leave it at that.

they both go straight in without a press...its nice and loose until the central/adjustable bush is in. AFAIK these will be the same. the noltec ones are the good ones because you can easily adjust them on car....with the style above you need to drop the caster rod out to rotate the adjusting bsuh

yeah I'm not familiar with the nswssc part of the rules, only cams schedules a & b. I guess the question will be do they comply with all parts of type 1,2,3 or svd other than tyres

now where is that popcorn. it's going to be an interesting year....clearly this series is getting very competitive

on swaybars....actually for anyone new at the track.... most important thing (apart from learning how to drive around the track) is to get your tyre pressures right first. frist thing decide target tyre pressure. If you don't have a specific number try 38 for road tyres, 34 for semi slicks. It's wakie and its winter...so start with the following cold tyre pressures: RF target -6 LF target -8 RR target -6 LR target -4 don't worry too much about the first session, just feel your way around the track. second session give it a warm up lap then 3 hard laps, then come into the pits pretty quick (let the brakes cool a little but don't back off on the tyres). come into pit lane, pull to the side, leave the car running/out of gear/handbrake off. let the tyre pressures in each tyre down to the target pressure. then go out and enjoy the day! Once the tyre pressures are right, if you have adjustable bars set them both to medium. if you get too much understeer back off the rear bar to soft. if you get too much oversteer....maybe try softer front bar, or more front torque if its adjustable, or turn in later, or more progressive throttle out of the corner. If it rolls too much go harder on the front bar. but basically change them from session to session (pretty easy) and see what you like Remember each 3 hole bar has 5 settings because you do not have to adjust them evenly (ie you can have "hard" on one side and "medium" on the other to create "medium/hard")...so there are plenty of settings to confuse you! hope you got the wheels aligned before you went to the track!

I call bullshit. The machine shop is in your garage not the house

same...happy to take it for a spin stu! dave, don't worry there will be plenty of tools there on the day...haven't you met the exec committee and OMG....8 years and Shell enters a track day! You'll have a ball