Duncan

Sorry mate I overlooked your payment - received it fine as well on 11 June

hose pliers! and they have saved my knuckles more damage than any other tool I own i really need to start that...."cool tools for skylines thread"....there's more where they came from!

these....are one of the essential tools for a skyline owner! if not....you need to break the seal between the hose and the metal. carefully work the smallest bladed screwdriver you have between the hose and the pipe (don't stab the rubber, go under it). if you can work the screwdriver right around the pipe the hose will come straight off.

sweet! Wayne Prenter is coming to Wakie

yes, but Dave/NYTSKY's one was the engine builder's error in not doing it up correctly, looks like the same problem here. However I've also seen and heard of correctly tensioned ones failing. I always replace both stud and bolt on the race car motors

interesting! particularly that the bolt was partially unwound. (and still didn't snap at the block!) this is far from the first timing belt tensioner bolt that has snapped, and many people on here would recommend replacing it (and the idler stud) every time the timing belt is done. From memory, Elite Dan did some interesting testing on some bolts supplied by nissan after one snapped.

but....the alternator will stop charging because the engine will stop because the ECU/fuel pump/injectors will loose their power? The method I first said above is effectively the same, 32 GTR has 3 wires to the battery (alternator - no cut, starter - no cut, everything else - kill switch)

now you've got me confuzzled damo. In your pic only the starter motor is turned off then the switch is off? Or have you left the rest of the car's wiring off the pic? BTW ditch the mac get a PC. macs are rubbish if they don't have mspaint

lol any dents?

no the oil pump requires the sump to come off which is a whole different game - also it should last as long as the motor. but the timing belt has to come off to change the water pump so you may as well do it. Also the bearings, and the stud and bolt that hold them in. It's also a good opportunity to put adjustable cam gears on if you have been considering them

but why would those lines "keep cracking". I've never broken one in the race car (broken lots of other stuff!). do you have the turbo/sump pipe brackets on? Are the manifolds OK (not cracked)? some other problem here

GTR Brembo discs are 324x32...would almost certainly be OK. I run porsche 4 piston calipers with standard gtr discs on my race car.

oh dear last poo-joe gone!

I heard Sarah and Russ won! Congrats guys even if you were in a filthy cheater emo

holy shit michelin tyre tent, does want!

fairny nuff btw is that bloody race still going? sucks to have a "poo-got". looks like audi was the thing to have this year

these are my kids....you really sure you want them?

haha very well put. having had a good look at tacker's viper I would be tempted to agree. do the corvettes have a live axle or not? apparently the bmw had to ditch double wishbones and go back to struts for le mans, I assume that was because there are less freedoms there.

but there's no doubt.....the teams are amazing what they do to get things back on track

lol....lucky its not that hard to rebuild a corvette rear end. 1. remove borken rear end 2. find a horse and cart 3. steal the suspension from the cart and insert it into corvette. 4. refuel and back onto the track

standard setup has 3 cables to the battery starter motor alternator everything else. i cut power to "everything else" it stops the car which stops the alternator. It does mean the starter is not "isolated"....but then again I have a front mounted battery. If you only have 1 cable to the battery it will be tricky....starter motor draws 11ty billion amps so you can't run it thru most relays (or most fuses or circuit breakers for that matter). It is not fused from the factory

looks hard! I hooked the standard fuseable link to the input to a 80a relay (pin 30). Output goes to where the fuseable link went stock (pin 87) Second wire from the battery to the relay (86) Earth for the relay (85) to a kill switch on the dash, then earthed after the switch. Dead simple. And the only problem is the relay will drain the battery after a week or 2 if you don't turn it off at the kills switch when you stop the car....but this is a good habit anyway

yay still on. how bloody long does this 24 hour race go???!?

bargain for someone....I just paid $100 more for one on ebay. that part# is also for some late S1 cars like mine

If the stag won't do it...the elgrand is a pretty good car too....plenty to choose from at good prices.