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Duncan

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Everything posted by Duncan

  1. yes grant....that is a perfect example of a car that is way too low and probably has f**ked geometery. I think someone mentioned "drop down ball joints" above. You can get longer ones from fulcrum suspension, or we got ball joint spacers from Unique Autosports that move the lower arm mount 20mm which would help heaps. Top arm is still wrong though.
  2. hmm hangover must have been bad, it too 9 days to get baclk here....and here i am druken again! just a bump to remind all those kids out tehre to join our facespace page!!11ty
  3. lol great setups here....i have the same sickness. i have designed our whole new house around fitting a decent sized garage including 2 post hoist. we ended up with 15m x 7m with 2 doors front and 1 to rear to allow drive thru. bulldozers arriving shortly...we moving back in march 2011
  4. BSM car is an absolute bargain for the development, (money, time, testing and knowledge) that has gone into it....no matter what they are asking. It think people deeply underestimate how hard it is to develop a race car. the GIO/any gibson car are obviously the same, times 11ty. But my problem would be I could never drive it hard as it needs, just too much history to risk it
  5. just a quick update......no update! I haven't had a chance to chase this, but will....
  6. yeah will do....but I was assuming it was the same functions just ricier....only went that way because i needed a new HC and the stagea desperately needs rice to go with the nismo tv dash
  7. ahh don't worry about the first day blues....it almost always takes somewhere between "a couple" and "a few" days to get things running properly. Mine has been 5 years and counting....damn close to perfect now though
  8. ahh same! I'll stop being OT and go find that thread At least you bought a good colour this time, even if you downgraded series.
  9. Hey Owen, I got your form and forwarded to Shell (although she has been having email probs). Simon, sent yours through on 20 May as well. Might be best to check with Shell
  10. btw...what's with the new avatar? planned or actual?
  11. lol that's just me. actually....even I've never killed a motor with less than 50klm on it...you get a surprising distance with no oil to the bearings
  12. that's easy...it will go crank, crank, cough, broooooooooooooooom
  13. just in case jim was lurking again
  14. not exactly guaranteed....I've bought 2 sets of these and used for 6-18 months of road and track use with no splitting. So on the same logic you could say it is guaranteed not to happen has anyone had an actual failure?
  15. farkin. well spotted. did you get to the bottom of the aac noise? I never got a chance to check mine
  16. or....just top it up with water! coolant is only a water.glycol mix anyway
  17. 24mm (from memory), they are tiny. even your average china "racing" one will cool a fair bit better
  18. you really only going to enter 1 event per year (superlap)? if so....stick with standard gtr calipers, braided lines and 2 piece rotors with ally hats. or even better the ksport/d2/g4 setup. This would be adequate for 2-3 quick laps at a time (ie more than soft tyres can take) and nice and light to reduce unspring mass . G4s are a bit lighter than standard. Of course if you want more all round brakes, ksport 355mm for medium to high power or ap/alcon/brembo for high power over 355ishmm rotors. Wheel diameter and power are factors. What chassis btw, your profile says VL commodore...not familiar with their suspension (strut front, solid axle rear?)
  19. I run about 38 normally...on most road tyres it wil improve handling at the cost of comfort. I don't agree that it is enough pressure to wear out the inside of a tyre, mine wears pretty evenly. I have run tyres up to 45psi but that is specific tyres on the race track. Too high for general road use to me. Also check the sidewalls, the tyres will hav a maximum allowable pressure which is generally 45....
  20. yeah, and I'm not saying its perfect either...just that I've got one pump that hasn't had trouble...its no guarantee it won't fail tomorrow....or never
  21. AFAIK you can just replace the 1 synchro that is crunching....but if one is gone the rest almost certainly are going or gone too. And there are bearings and seals that should be replaced too. BTW 1300 sounds cheap to replace all the synchros and bearings. Or is that the cost to get another second handbox? If so I'd probably give it a miss, almost every box will have these issues to some extent by now. You can just do what most people do - run the Redline Lightweight shockproof gear oil and slow down your gear changes a little....it won't fix anything but it might hide the problem for a few years.
  22. not your fault Kaliea....and I didn't know either until I got this one. Both are the same on the front. I'll post pics tonight, but the difference in colour of the socket is pretty simple....this one is black, I need the white one
  23. we've already seen more than enough of your arse end! anyway...brad's too busy welding up a 25l sump for me
  24. Interesting. I've had a walbro in mine for 3 years with the standard wiring and its working fine.
  25. actually....it just unsold! turns out there are 2 different climate control units, one with whit plugs on the back and one with black plugs. this has black plugs and 1 need a whitey! So this is for sale again....same price
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