Duncan

BSM car is an absolute bargain for the development, (money, time, testing and knowledge) that has gone into it....no matter what they are asking. It think people deeply underestimate how hard it is to develop a race car. the GIO/any gibson car are obviously the same, times 11ty. But my problem would be I could never drive it hard as it needs, just too much history to risk it

just a quick update......no update! I haven't had a chance to chase this, but will....

yeah will do....but I was assuming it was the same functions just ricier....only went that way because i needed a new HC and the stagea desperately needs rice to go with the nismo tv dash

ahh don't worry about the first day blues....it almost always takes somewhere between "a couple" and "a few" days to get things running properly. Mine has been 5 years and counting....damn close to perfect now though

ahh same! I'll stop being OT and go find that thread At least you bought a good colour this time, even if you downgraded series.

Hey Owen, I got your form and forwarded to Shell (although she has been having email probs). Simon, sent yours through on 20 May as well. Might be best to check with Shell

btw...what's with the new avatar? planned or actual?

lol that's just me. actually....even I've never killed a motor with less than 50klm on it...you get a surprising distance with no oil to the bearings

that's easy...it will go crank, crank, cough, broooooooooooooooom

just in case jim was lurking again

not exactly guaranteed....I've bought 2 sets of these and used for 6-18 months of road and track use with no splitting. So on the same logic you could say it is guaranteed not to happen has anyone had an actual failure?

farkin. well spotted. did you get to the bottom of the aac noise? I never got a chance to check mine

or....just top it up with water! coolant is only a water.glycol mix anyway

24mm (from memory), they are tiny. even your average china "racing" one will cool a fair bit better

you really only going to enter 1 event per year (superlap)? if so....stick with standard gtr calipers, braided lines and 2 piece rotors with ally hats. or even better the ksport/d2/g4 setup. This would be adequate for 2-3 quick laps at a time (ie more than soft tyres can take) and nice and light to reduce unspring mass . G4s are a bit lighter than standard. Of course if you want more all round brakes, ksport 355mm for medium to high power or ap/alcon/brembo for high power over 355ishmm rotors. Wheel diameter and power are factors. What chassis btw, your profile says VL commodore...not familiar with their suspension (strut front, solid axle rear?)

I run about 38 normally...on most road tyres it wil improve handling at the cost of comfort. I don't agree that it is enough pressure to wear out the inside of a tyre, mine wears pretty evenly. I have run tyres up to 45psi but that is specific tyres on the race track. Too high for general road use to me. Also check the sidewalls, the tyres will hav a maximum allowable pressure which is generally 45....

yeah, and I'm not saying its perfect either...just that I've got one pump that hasn't had trouble...its no guarantee it won't fail tomorrow....or never

AFAIK you can just replace the 1 synchro that is crunching....but if one is gone the rest almost certainly are going or gone too. And there are bearings and seals that should be replaced too. BTW 1300 sounds cheap to replace all the synchros and bearings. Or is that the cost to get another second handbox? If so I'd probably give it a miss, almost every box will have these issues to some extent by now. You can just do what most people do - run the Redline Lightweight shockproof gear oil and slow down your gear changes a little....it won't fix anything but it might hide the problem for a few years.

not your fault Kaliea....and I didn't know either until I got this one. Both are the same on the front. I'll post pics tonight, but the difference in colour of the socket is pretty simple....this one is black, I need the white one

we've already seen more than enough of your arse end! anyway...brad's too busy welding up a 25l sump for me

Interesting. I've had a walbro in mine for 3 years with the standard wiring and its working fine.

actually....it just unsold! turns out there are 2 different climate control units, one with whit plugs on the back and one with black plugs. this has black plugs and 1 need a whitey! So this is for sale again....same price

hmm indeed. and consider where your brake fluid might be going. If your front and rear pads are not low you probably have a dangerous leak somewhere.

before you drill it off! a couple of other options first, take the next smaller size socket in an impact socket, imperial if necessary, bash in on with a hammer....hard.....if it catches enough you will be able to undo it. or...get a workshop to weld a nut on the end of the wheel nut and see if you can undo it with that. drilling off will be a mess and probably damage the wheel as well as the stud. BTW...always do up your wheel nuts carefully! 110nm with a torque wrench is best. Always put a wheel nut on a few turns befire using a rattle gun. Most tyre shops will not do either of these things and a stuffed wheel stud can be the result. also, pm me your vin#. I can check the wheel stud number it may match something local

anyway....its on the block end of the bottom hose, not the top one