Duncan

I had the bonnet and boot struts regassed on my C34 years ago and they are still going strong, under $200 for the lot. I did check with nissan first, they had no more boot struts and bonnet ones were about 600 a pair. Also be careful with aftermarket replacements, nissan use unusual/non standard upper and lower mounts (ie better engineered than ford or holden's ones). Supercheap etc only cover the local stuff

sure....but it has to be the most bastardised chassis/series evah!

the best ones around are from Paul Ruzic (mountainrunner on here). Or a custom setup if you have some genuinely unique requirement like a $500k time attack car. the local ebay ones are $15 of variable resistors that cost $250....steer clear! I have no idea about the skylab ones but I would be very surprised if they did even half of what the Ruzic ones do.

yes there are guides....i but not from me! I've only ever dealt with the push ones. just try a search of "pull clutch remove" or similar

Thanks Greg for your help, Mark has decided to grab some driveshafts out of Melb instead because we know that will all fit together OK.

or....almost as good.....a set of r33 gtr half shafts (non-vspec) that we can grab in melbourne tomorrow....

Hey guys, Mark has diff problems and we really need to try and sort it tonight. Does anyone in tassie have a 4.4 diff with a mechanical centre? Give me a bell on 0419 634 674 if you can help out.

welcome! you should drop by the motorsport section, there are plenty of people with dedicated track and rally cars there Bloody oath it would be! If you have a winch to hold the motor up you have a winch to pull the motor out! Anyway, behind the flywheel there are are 4x M6 bolts from the rear main to the sump. Unless you are feeling really keen and want to drill access holes for a 1/4" 10mm socket, the flywheel has to come off. And to get that off the gearbox has to come out. which way does the rod on the clutch slave cylinder face? If it points forward you have a pull type clutch and you have to release the fork from the trust bearing before you can pull the box off. If the clutch slave faces rear you have push type and the gearbox should slide straight off. You will probably need to remove the tailshaft and attessa line to move the gearbox far enough to get at the flywheel. Don't forget to bleed attessa when you put it all back together. For next time, removing the motor is a much smaller job than what you are doing now.....disconnect gear box, remove intake above the turbs, undo front pipes, undo wiring on the intake side and top of motor, pull DSF driveshaft out, remove front intermediate shaft, radiator hoses, oil cooler lines if applicable. Fair bit less work than doing the whole subframe

Hi Ryan, try a search for pineapples in the Suspension section, there is a lot of discussion. Here are some from the last couple of weeks: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Gt...p;hl=pineapples http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Le...p;hl=pineapples http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...p;hl=pineapples http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tr...p;hl=pineapples http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...p;hl=pineapples http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...p;hl=pineapples http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ax...p;hl=pineapples

I honestly don't think it makes any difference in 99% of situations. there is so much weight on the rear that there is plenty of traction in most circumstances. where i think 4wd is a benefit is when you are doing the tight manouvering on a driveway, grass, hills etc.

update from today. spoke to Shell head office (sorry...."coles express"!) who took the complaint and passed it on to their investigators. spoke to the investigators this arvo and registered the complaint, explained the situation. They have asked for copy of the receipt for fuel + invoice from workshop. No doubt they will test the fuel before paying up. so far so good. Really hope there is no permanent damage considering it was a brand new forged motor running 18psi...but there's no way to tell really. It is running smooth so its hard to tell if there is any det damage. I won't be signing a release as part of any settlement because I can't guarantee no damage has been done. As far as I know they are still selling the fuel there, 5 days later.

you can buy race/rally r35s for that price any time. that is about the going price.

yeah this was in the stagea. fresh from it's full boost tune which was what surprised me about the whole thing. I've kept a small sample of fuel in a clean container but have 60l of the stuff sitting around the mechanic's will update after we have a chance to "chat" with shell.

can still be a wear issue if the fronts are less worn than the rears. that's why its worth taking a few minutes to swap them around

fark that dino-line is quick....that's among the quickest gtst's I know of around there already. any spins, disco-stu?

yikes. that is a lot harder than a momentary switch! I'm sure you know what you are doing.....but won't this all work backwards if someone presses the button on the controller as well? At least until you press it again.

about bloody time!

yeah the second fuel I put in was mobil 8000 from the one in Kellyville. I'm now running vpower from the shell on vic rd at west ryde with no problems.

jeebus! pics of the frame and suspension with clothes off thanks!

k10 march/micra came like this: base model super turbo be-1 pao figaro all the same chasis and MAxxE(T) motors. K11....we got these Also they produced other different bodies (no pics from me) Viewt Super March Tango Collet Bollero Rumba Juke Polka Box k12...got these too Also came in Bollero Rafeet C+C those guys are not just giggling....they are on drugs

I'm guessing you don't mean the crappy blue breather! Great work again from Craved Coatings on the cover... I picked up the cover on SAU, it was hand sprayed from a can. Craved sand blasted then powder coated in in crinkle finish black - looks mint

yes tht second pic is the bit i mean. there is a nylon socket in there which wears badly. In my experience that is always more worn than the tie rod end

no idea about fuel economy yet....my foot has been pretty heavy, double points or not. because its hard not to laugh every time it comes on boost too_much_boost, I've run mine up on 2wd dynos with no front drive shaft often....no obvious issue and I don't see how there would be. Yes 4wd will probably be trying hard (attessa wheelspin vs g sensor arguments can wait for another thread) but a flange spinning hard with no wheels attached is no big deal.

hmmm at least it has been found at last. pretty ballsy to be driving it around so long after stealing it. is it your's now or the insurance companies?