Duncan

I suspect you can't change the slow speed handling much without dramatic changes.....try driving style instead. turismo is probably the right man to answer because he runs rings around me (not to mention he is the australia motorkhana champion)....but... clutch kicks to get the back around on entry! handbrake if necessary weight shift set up really early so the rear wants to break away. stay on the brakes to keep the weight on the front wheels so the thing turns in.

the first one are "pineapples", the second are proper subframe replacement bushes. Pineapples sit above or below the subframe on the bolt that locates it and lock it in place. THey can be effective in holding the whole thing right even when the bushes are stuffed. And they are damn easy to change compared to the subframe bushes. But....if you have access to a workshop you should change the actual bushes...its a better solution. Will probably take a couple of hours even with the right tools if nothing has been off the car before.

bit late....but this is spot on for Kumho v70A We used to run these as control tyres and they perform better at road tyre like pressure....we used to run between 42 and 44 hot pressure. In fact performance did not drop of hugely right up to 48-50psi. Very unusual but I can't argue with the lap times.

out of interest....did you try searching first? we have done this subject already this week http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ng-t316860.html

I've got the perfect event for you....khanacross! It is a slow/medium speed race based on grass/dirt. daewoo has a thread over here about it: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ev...ce-t313298.html if you want to be more serious (not necessarily more fun....) super sprints are the next place to go. You would need to spend many thousands to get the r31 handling well and running quick on circuits (suspension/brakes/safety gear/engines). Or full circuit racing at 10s to 100s of thousands a year

btw its not on topic....but it shits me deeply..... vp102 at about $4 a litre meets the requirements for pump fuel but E85 at $1/l does not. CAMS are almost as bad as ANDRA who ban it outright (the ANDRA fuel committee is run by the WA distributor of VP race fuels....)

Duncan, check schedule G before you move to E85. It is not legal in production cars because it does not meet the requirements for "pump fuel": 2.1 Pump Fuel: A commercial fuel (as defined above) available for sale on demand from a roadside retail bowser outlet at each of at least five separate service stations in each of at least three Australian States. A mixture of Pump Fuels with the same hydrocarbon profile is permitted (eg, brands of ULP may be mixed; ethanol-blended fuels, ULP or diesel may not be mixed). It may however meet the requirements for "commercial fuel" if that is what your supersprint regs specify: 2. Commercial Fuel: Petrol, automotive diesel, liquefied petroleum gas (LPG) or ethanol blended fuel, eg, “E85” (as defined below) produced by an oil company and available for commercial sale in all States and mainland Territories of Australia. Not sure if it is actually "available" in all states, or what "available" actually even means. On the bright side it specifically mentions E85 so it may be OK.

bit late....but anyway, I gave up on ally wheel nuts after stripping one. Don't need that sort of issue. The ones I have run for years are steel from my mates at autobarn. take a nice thin 17mm socket and fit in most wheels. they have a flange so they don't slide into the deep sockets. look like this....thanks ascii art. . __ .|...| .|...| .|...| \___/ I don't have an issue with using a rattle gun to spin the nut if you have long studs, but always stop early and finish them by hand with a torque wrench (unless the rattle gun has actually been calibrated to the right torque, 110nm for standard studs). I have seen studs stretch and break from not torquing right, it is just crazy not to take the time to do this stuff right on a track car. I use a makita electric impact wrench then finish off with a warren and brown torque wrench, does not take too long.

oh thank god you are not the head of nissan R&D! the R36 GTR would run an rb20 with a huge truck turbo and 500mm, 22 piston brakes!

I understand all rb starters are interchangeable...I use an rb30 starter on my rb26.

yeah I agree. I have been running mine hard for 5 years on the same gearbox, under 300kw though. Includes standing starts and lots of flat shits. However...I did buy a new gearbox at the start (not sure if they are available any more, if not they can be fully rebuilt). It was definately worth it, any 20yo gearbox will have stuffed synchros and bad bearings. There is also something in technique (wish I could tell the difference lol), some people just kill these boxes more often in race use. If you are running over 300kw forget it....just put a ppg or par straight cut dog gearset in it. do not bother with the os giken (or any other) helical stuff for track use with decent power

lol I don't think this car will be blowing anyone anywhere....its just for getting around it was on awd dyno (the "before" run was 2wd)

As I said earlier in the thread I am absolutely over the moon about the results, this is how all stageas should drive absolutely buckets of torque everywhere, and plenty of power when needed (makes more than my race gtr lol) This is it for me for mods on the car for now, I am going to enjoy it for a few months. I guess the next thing would be changing the std injectors and air flow meters (both are maxed out which is why we didn't push past 16psi). And a decent turbo if (when?) this one fails. Oh and I have something very cool coming for the interior but that is a story for another day

Dyno result at 16psi (high boost). I am happy to run it at low boost (14psi) most of the time because a) the power is adequate there, and b) fuel is not free! Also for interest I put on (sorry....freehand!) my last dyno run in red. At the time the car had 12psi boost on a standard motor and turbo with a HKS FCD managing the rich and retard issues. Also had 3" zorst, front mount and manual gearbox.

OK, some updates after some unexpected setbacks (I kind of ripped the exhaust off it going into my driveway with the race car on the back ) Got a call saying the car was ready after full boost tuning on Friday night, headed down like a kid on christmas morning. Jumped in, fuel tank was empty so I headed to the nearest servo, chucked in 60l of Shell's finest, and headed onto the M2 to give it a boot The moment I did it pinged like crazy! Backed off, turned the boost back down to 12, floored it again, pinged like crazy again. Grumpy call to the workshop....they organised to open early on sat morning and check it out. After some checks on the dyno they came to the conclusion there was a problem with the fuel. Drained the tank, put in some known good 98 octane and ran it up on they dyno at high boost (16psi). Absolutely no problems. So thanks to my mates at Shell for almost killing my brand new Rb30 with crap fuel. I kept a sample and will be getting reimbursement from the dyno and troubleshooting time. Thank god the PFC has a knock light and my ears work. I would hate to think how many people have put that fuel in and driven off assuming everything is OK. And a big thanks to Hills Motorsport for dropping everything and heading in early on Sat morning to help me out - especially when it turned out to be 100% not their fault.

actually....this time I do! My car is sitting here with no front bar on. This is what it looks like in front. This is where I bolted it in (from side on). Simply a piece of strong webbing with grommets protecting the bolt holes. Grommet tool is readily available from hardware stores (absolutely nfi why anyone else ever needs them though) Then there is a 5mm high slit in the front bumper that I pull the tow strap through BTW I have been questioned once about it....apparently it should be red. At that race meet I wrapped it in red electrical tape :|

I put the new cover on the motor, just got it back from the powder coaters. unfortuntely at the same time I found the old cam breather hose had a split so it has a temporary blue replacement.

That sucks hard....I am with shannons and have got 4 windows from them on 3 different cars over the last 5 years. most recently the rear screen of the ute after i threw a brick thru it (no I was no practising for a spree, just an accident )

sorry....i assumed! you should put a coil spring compressor on it first to take the tension off. For sure it will be a bastard of a job with the spring pushing on it! about $20 at super cheap

Adrian please contact Nick (blitz) or Ash (R31Nismoid) if this happened to the forums. There are not often bad traders on here but it does happen sometimes - there are procedures to help.

Paul....quick question..... your FAQ is excellent. One thing I do in every car is take the timing to 0 between about 4000 and 2000rpm for that childish poping that I love. However, when off the throttle the injectors always drop to 0, to get things going along nicely I need to hold the throttle open a little which gets the fuel throwing again. Do you have the same effect? and if so any suggestions other than stuffing with TPS closed position?

BTW the R34 GTR will either outperform all of those cars you listed stock, or with just a little money spent on it. Comfort would be a different issue, all of those other cars are pretty strong on comfort at the expense of handling. Also 10yo car vs brand new, you will notice the difference in terms of wear around the interior etc

Good on Nagoya for agreeing to cover the costs above the insurance.

I don't have a set of c spanners around...but some suggestions: Thoroughly clean the thread below the spring seat of any grit. Degreaser and a nylon brush should do the trick Once it is clean you only need to move the bottom ring about 1/8 of a turn and it should spin freely on the thread. So the c spanner are only really needed for the initial loosening and then tightening again at the end. The top ring should turn freely down until it starts to lock onto the lower ring again. If hammer and screwdriver won't dislodge it a c spanner wont be much good either

I should clarify - I don't think it was some "off" vpower or something like that. 99% I think it was the wrong fuel in the bowser ie 91 octane. I told them they should stop selling it until they test it but old mate at the counter didn't seem interested. I normally run 98 octane from absolutely anyone without any problems (eg put in mobil 98 after draining the tank, then filled with caltex 98 for the blue mountains cruise). I firmly beleive if your tune is high strung enough to notice variation in 98 rated petrol it is too aggressive.