Duncan

good to see no sign of it today

Matt....you need to search for "supersport" on my105....or these guys: http://www.cams.com.au/Sport/Club%20Zone/C...0AUSTRALIA.aspx there will be lots of pre-built (ie lots of money spent) cars available, currently sitting in sheds. farking quick ones.

sounds like a damn good holiday idea.....not sure that many or any of our guys actually made it down there tho

I picked up my car from being tuned last night, the fuel tank was basically empty. filled up at the first servo I came too, continued down the road and turned onto the M2. I booted it coming onto the M2 and it pinged like crazy! Power FC recorded maxknock of 255 which I think is the maximum it reads. Only for a very short time thankfully and there seems to be no permanent damage. I rang up the workshop, pretty unhappy and said it was pinging like crazy....they said no way we have had it on the dyno all day no problems....I said guess again it is pinging like mad. Took it back to the workshop this morning, they put it on the dyno, ran the car up and sure enough it pinged like crazy. They had a think about it, decided fuel was probably the issue, drained it and put in new fuel from another servo. Ran it up on the dyno and it was fine......it was indeed the fuel causing the pinging, and not just a little, it was a hge difference. Anyway....a couple of things out of this: 1. Don't buy Vpower from the Shell on Windsor Rd at Baulkham hills (near the shops and KFC) for a while. I went back there today to tell them there was an issue....they helpfully suggested I call a 1300 number on Tuesday but did not stop selling the fuel. DON'T BUY IT! 2. Huge thanks to Hills Motorsport for taking my call, opening early on sat morning and pushing aside other work to look into an issue that turned out not to be their fault. 3. Will be interesting to see what Shell say and do about the issue. They are getting the workshop bill for time troubleshooting, draining and refilling the tank and dyno. Lucky for them I noticed the knock and backed off or they would be up for $10k for a forged rb30 motor.

lol taken too. maybe check the members list before requesting? thanks to me for nothing....thanks to Nick for doing a few....and thanks to Marc for doing hundred of them.

Thanks Terry- Sinno made it there and home in 1 piece and is now a club member was an unusual first cruise since it included a 20 min walk in the rain lol. Hopefully everyone enjoyed the day

great to hear its sorted and I still stand by the fact that 9 times out of 10 these symptoms mean boost leak...looks like this was one of the other times

better to pull the globe out if possible (or tape over if you feel dodgy.) there will be enough error lights on the dash the first time all 4 wheels leave the ground, you don't need to be distracted by false ones as well

what the fcuk does WTF mean? I have no fcuking idea.

lol its mostly that car (engine, front and rear subframes, interior...even boot), but there is a new shell. bigger cage and not running re55s any more

I am still wondering what the topic and sub topic mean???? anyway....start with taking the car for a suspension check and wheel alignment. You might have either something lose or heaps of toe out. Maybe chuck $14 at pedders and see what they come up with.

aerofocker and Daleo you can both settle down, if you want internet arguments Forced Induction Performance is over that way somewhere ---->. Stagea section is for grown ups. Anyway, I tried twice and wasn't going to post again in here...but I'll try again for luck. aerofocker, although not polite is almost certainly on the money. Have you actually checked for an intercooler pipe problem? It is 10x more likely than an afm/fuel pump/fpr/earth or whatever other suggestions have been made. The pipe will most likely be on but not tight (eg loose clamp, or maybe a large split). It is only opening badly under boost. It idles better or worse some times depending on how well the pipe is sealing without any clamping force on it. Yes it is harder to check than changing an AFM but I generally try and work on the most likely cause instead of the 1% long shot.

I think you'll find that mods (whether japanese, australian or chinese) hold very little of their actual value. If you are happy to pay that and get a car you like you should be happy with that. But don't expect the car to hold its value over the next 5 years when you want to on sell it

yeah, I agree. Sounds like an intercooler pipe.

I bet its an intercooler pipe or other major intake leak.

not true, in fact one of the tests is that the "contractor" must have worked at least 20% of the time away from the primary job....the 80/20 rule. absolutely agreed....its just that when people say "cash in hand" they normally mean not recorded or declared Oncosts: for a perm worker. Casual remove 1 and 3 and maybe 5 1. 4 weeks annual leave per year = 8c 2. 8 days sick leave per year = 3c 3. 1.3 weeks LSL per year = 2c 4. 2-6% worker's comp = 2-6c 5. 9% super= 9c 6. Payroll tax = 6c oncosts 30% minimum. Tom, everyone in the world gets to make their own decisions on right and wrong. The line is in a very different place for you than me. In particular if someone is working for me they get a fair share of what they earn for the business, underpinned by fair interpretation of law and the applicable awards. I might keep less short term, but I will still be around in 15 years doing the same thing as I have been for the last 15 years

I'm bringing my rb30 to the cruise....marko if I can get a day off on saturday you can too. just bring the forms with you.

understood....but factory tunes are designed to be safe with the variation of actual cars and conditions they are run under. any tune which makes more power as a result has less margin for safety. maybe a little less, maybe a lot less. either way I bet it does not come with an egnine rebuild guarantee. I've got no issues with a mail order tune, and I have run one in my race car - but I would always spend $50 to check it on the dyno before hitting the track.

I've always used silicone and never had a problem. it is designed that way, even has the channel cut into the water pump gasket surface

lol...since my paycheques stopped coming in from SAU I stopped doing them. will sort them out on the weekend when i have a minute if no one else has prior

swap your rear tyres to the front. if that fixes it you have a tyre diameter issue (either mismatched sizes or badly worn)

based on a K10 micra....

at the risk or (re)starting an argument....I changed to FF plenum and didn't worry about the BOV. Other than the silly noise when I change gears flat out, no issues so far. It is possible there is an impact on potential turbo life but there is a lot of opinions out there on that one. I was willing to take the chance as its a cheap turbo

I think its more likely to be incorrect compression test results unless it is running like shit or blows heaps of smoke on boost. was it warm when you tested it was the battery fully charged was the cas unplugged was the throttle fully open while cranking was it a screw in or push in type of tester?

One thing I can say.....R32 and R33 N1 turbos are about the worst thing on the market for response. Any modern, ball bearing turbo will make the same power 1500rpm sooner....or far more power at the same revs if you go larger