Duncan

that is a ball joint you can only buy from nissan. they are not cheap. and almost all of them are rooted in 2nd hand hubs. but worst of all, they really stuff the handling, leads to an "inconsistent" feeling at the rear that most people assume is a HICAS issue.

you guys are damn brave running a generic tune at the track before checking it is safe on a dyno first! $30k gamble isn't it?

meh recce is for pussies. Team Trust The Navigator Or Just Drive Blind (TTHNOJDB) FTW! at least you made it!

sounds like a lot of messing around! just put 296mm rotors on? RDA in the group buy section!

simply enough - there is absolutely no legal way to employ someone cash in hand. on top of the net you receive, employers must pay tax to the ATO on your behalf, pay 9% super (up to a limit, if you are not casual), pay worker's comp, pay payroll tax (if they are over a certain size, $600kpa wages in NSW). And meet all award requirements like overtime, loadings, allowances, annual leave, sick leave and long service leave. the only possible grey area is if they claim you a "contractor" in which case you are a business and must pay for all of those things yourself. In almost every case that goes to court, the business claiming it's people are contractors loses, and they have to pay back costs of all the above. how it happens is when the person just needs a job - when you need the money you accept the dodgy deal because its better than nothing. Its that simple. don't take a cash job unless you have to. If you have to keep detailed records of every day you work, how long and what they paid you. When you no longer need that job you have the option to go after the employer for all of the back tax, wages, overtime, super etc etc. They will absolutely lose for sure, the amount you earned will be deemed net and they will habve to pay another 50-100% on top of what you got cash. however....having said that....I would not be going after a night club or similar for back wages. You might find they have "people" and no-one needs that shit.

who me? I've posted before in this thread but here is my opinion. 1. stageas are underbraked. Maybe if you take it easy they are OK (any modern brake can lock a wheel in for stop, its the spritied drive or run down a hill that show up weaknesses). I don't take it easy so it is not OK. 2. best value for money upgrade IMHO is r32gtr/r33 gtst calipers. You get them for $500 + $400 discs + $100 pads for a "sporty" pad, and 99% of people will not have problems. $1k for essentially brand new brakes. 3. If you are 1% of people like me the ksport/g4/d2/whatever brake sets are excellent. $2k for 330 or 356mm rotors, 8 piston alloy calipers, braided brake lines and "street" or "sport" pads. Direct bolt on (or maybe the M12 vs M14 problem which can be solved for 20c). This is what I run and I have never experienced fade even on the race track. 4. you can spend $8-10k on name brand AP/Brembo/endless/project mu if you like. It will be no better than kpsort ones.

its a terrible job to do those bushes - but 980's not cheap. If you have some big breaker bars, car stands, a jack, 5 tonne press and knuckles that don't bleed you could probably do it in a day. personally its on my list of "give it to a workshop" jobs where the pain is not worth the price.....so just find someone a little cheaper

I know you said you've checked all the hoses but that would still be my guess. On a track you are full load/full boost way longer than on the street, and things you might overlook can be loose. so...check again....all clamps on the inlet....bov returns.....vacuum hoses....you need to look for splits as well as loose clamps too, tiny splits can open under boost but not be noticeable normally. unless it sounds like a wrx of course!!

most certainly still required. with a lock bar they don't move any more, but they still control the toe angle of the hub

yeah they have had some great results, on your cars and others in sprints, hillclimb etc. can't work for me because we have min 3x 20min races and they will just get smashed....even gordon leven were not willing to recommend their hardest a050s for race use. also not a great deal for most people doing longer track sessions.....but obviously a great choice if you are only doing 3 laps at a time

lol yeah about time they got that slug of a car moving better

Alan you are right....people may well be interested in those 2 cars.....they may well be eligibile for import and compliance under SEVS if DOTARS accept under 600klm as near new. If so they would be very cheap to import to aus for road use

honestly didn't pay any attention to the brand, it was generic korean/chinese/whatever. Have been running them on the race car for about 2 years now so they are good enough quality. got them through John at UAS, very reasonable price

lol.....mine are 500-550 a tyre....

results are here: http://www.blcc.com.au/dmdocuments/esses%20170410.pdf and here: http://www.blcc.com.au/dmdocuments/mtn%20st%20180410.pdf

go the dattos indeed....great work from both of you anyone else competing from the SAU class?

yeah nothing wrong with MS's skills, still very sharp......lewis's car was much faster but MS held him out for ages without getting overly defensive

yeah I agree Ben....skaife was given a drive thru years ago for passing the cars in front on the grass at a start....racing is meant to happen on the race track. I do very much like some more lattitude from the stewards, but it can't extend to dangerous driving. What Button, Hamilton and Alonso did were all dangerous. i think the difficulty of passing these days mean they have to push harder in marginal situation like pit in/out, at the start etc

sure is, ANZAC day on sunday, day off on monday.

probably just usual toyota quality....he should think himself lucky the brakes work

but its even simpler than that......they are not releasing something tricky like code, it is just fuel and timing settings. i agree if it was a super special race motor (eg a restricted intake ipra motor) and the owner knew....but seriously...a roady? that is just flat out anti-competitive (owner only has the choice of going back at whatever price the tuner wants, or $600+ to start from scratch)

I've got a couple too....where are you?

either you re-use one of the existing bolts or it comes with 2 and the pic is misleading. Either way it is much easier than any way I have ever tried

Cruise Route: Bells Line of Road MOUNTAIN HIGH Meeting place: pm any club member for details Meeting time: 24 APRIL, 10:00 for a 11:00 SHARP departure We will cruise from the start at 11:00 sharp and head to Mt Victoria for lunch at The Imperial Hotel (approx 1.5 hours drive) where we will stop and feed our faces, talk about stuff and things and socialise. Bells Line of Road is situated within the magnificent Blue Mountains, approximately one hour drive north of Sydney. Bells Line of Road took its name from Archibald Bell Junior, the explorer who at the age of just nineteen years crossed what was to become one of the most scenic routes across the Blue Mountains.(Thanks Archie) Maps will be provided with the route, we will also conduct a short halt(10 min) about 17 klm from the starting point at the BP servo on the Bells Line so as to keep everyone together. Ill see you all there with bells on. Then if anyone is interested they can head to catalina for a walk around a classic old race track which went the way Oran Park did before heading home. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catalina_Park Don't forget to be fueled up

yes! excellent finds. I only saw the first thingy for the first time yesterday, it is a brilliant solution to the problem