Duncan

or....if you have a power fc it flashes to indicate knock and a few other problems

Have a read of schedule J of the CAMS manual first it will answer a lot. http://www.camsmanual.com.au/pdf/10_gen_re...dule_J_Q210.pdf Once you are across that post up more questions and I'm sure we can help One thing I strongly recommend - don go with a cage that does not meet CAMS rules. Cages are difficult or impossible to change which means you would not be able to do cams events ever with that car.

not that easy unfortunately, although we have done it on a race car. The hub needs to be modified to clear the brakes. The mounting points are wrong (too far in, too close together) so an adapter is needed You need to convert from normal handbrake to hydraulic. And once you are finished you will probably have way too much rear brake bias which means ABS will kick in earlier than now which means you will probably get less overall braking than when you had the standard fronts and rears! You can fix this with an proportioning valve in the line to the rear brakes or an adjustable pedal box. Assuming you are looking for a cheap way to upgrade the rears.....this aint it! Having said all that, the rear brakes are pretty good and almost every car I know for street/light and even medium track use runs standard or brembo (33/34 gtr) rears. If a little more bite is needed at the rearlike it was for me, just get a better pad.

sorry i meant standard exhaust and intake ie not 3" or pod or etc. dead standard and tired about 130, 10psi boot 160

not sure yet for me been working each weekend....hoping to make it down there to cheer on kel with my pom poms and mankini

yeah 160ish was what I had with mine when it was stock (exhaust, intake, tune) apart from 10psi boost. sounds about right. generally it will turn up to 180-200 with a little bit of boost

can't seeing it being an issue....just grab anyone who crashes out on day 1 or 2 and get their accom

I have the same issue, only about 50%-70% of mails coming thru

99% likely you have put the fuel lines the wrong way around. the feed from the tank goes to the fuel filter and then the fuel rail inlet. the return to the tank goes to the fuel pressure regulator. even more likely since you said there is pressure in the line to the FPR, there really should be none there.

yeah easy to test....block off the vacuum from the motor to the booster and see if the feel changes. I ran the race car with a busted booster years ago it was terrible (pedals designed for no booster have a different leverage). BTW I owe you an overheating pm....one day that motor will be stripped, next few weeks I hope to have info

yeah be careful I rekon you could manage to damage the profec b if you short the wrong wires...

engine shut down mid corner is no big deal, I have had a motor stall mid corner while racing before. yes the brake booster will run out within a 2-3 seconds, and yes the steering gets heavier. but it is certainly not some sort of dramatic spin off the track backwards thing - that only happens if the motor locks solid and the clutch is in. in fact I didn't realise it had stalled for a few seconds among all the fun - certainly not dangerous just unexpected

ahh excellent choice....safe AND cool. not many cars like that, that normal people can afford!

Ray,.....over here! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fo...-2-t307114.html

I've got Gary's bilsteins in both my stagea and 32 gtr race car. Excellent mono shock damper, way better than anything else in the up to 1500 price range. Obviously there are better shocks again in the $4k+ range.

haha that's what I thought too! Looks like an excellent project, will be good to see how a brand name jap kit goes, haven't seen any full hks setups in Oz yet except Quinn's targa car.

why is a nistune (or unichip for that matter) illegal? they are not programmable on the fly, and the factory ECU is just as retunable as they are. Surely the final emission is the only issue for legality? Plenty of shops in NSW that can provide a tune that will get you past the emissions test, why would Vic be different?

or just plain old worn rings. try a compression test

saw the greddy thing today....looks as cool as it you would think! I run the Ruzic Engine Monitor in my race car...pm Mountainrunner on here to get hold of one. Excellent piece of kit at a fraction of the cost of similar things, but you will need to know wiring to install it, or get someone to do it

yes the are 4 spot, and they would be an excellent and cheap upgrade. you might need to upgrade again later but the 33 gtst/32 gtr brakes should be under $500 a set. I don't know about swapability between na and turbs. Assuming they are 5 stud hubs I think you can almost certainly fit pretty much any nissan stuff front and/or rear, but that is not a guarantee

goddamn hobbits need a race track now???? just kidding, we should all have one

I am not sure of the exact rules, but importers used to do the same for r32 gtr (ie only 1 brake light on each side lights up) I assume it is an ADR requirement. No doubt they just cut the wires or changed the globe, it would have been the cheapest and easiest option. I have no idea what ADRs have agains double brake lights???? And I wonder if the advent of LED lights have caused a rule change

oh man....I admire your dedication for collecting nissans (a problem i share....) but NA and auto???? ouch.

I've only ever seen custom setups. why do you ask? and you mean gearbox specifically, right? I would be more worried about transfer case (uses a slipping wet clutch) and rear diff first

yeah sadly all jap import speedos are in dog years 41000klm/9 years, about 4555klm a year? don't think so.... I guess they took 100,000 off for you