Duncan

the hell he does my sump has been there 12 months longer than your shitbox.

yeah thats not really ideal though. as per the cams manual, 10o up or down is recommended, more than 45o does not pass. And most seats will have the rear eyebolts at more than 45o. still better than just lap sash at holding you in place, but I think it can be genuinely dangerous in a big crash (pushing down on your shoulders/spine)

losing, you mean under 13.8v? normally when the regulator dies it charges high not low I thought. Is the earth OK? easy enough to put a re-conditioned alternator in

yeah bit hard to guess without a multimeter....get a battery or borrow one. where are you?

i agree re fuel cut btw....would be a hell of a fluke to get enough fuel to fire but not enough to stop pinging. would be a very small window considering it would need to go over say 12:1 but not more than say 15:1

brad....get off the internet and build me a sump unless you are as drunk as I am

absolutely NFI mate....everyone I have ever heard of just pretends it is CDS maybe ask bonds. and I think the cams manual had some contacts back in the old paper days.

CAMS allows only CDS cages based on their general designs. If it is not CDS it requires full computer simulation to confirm it meets the requirements. Or you could just paint it and say it is CDS. There has very recently been a huge argument between CAMS/NZ/FIA regarding rally cars, which ended in CAMS rejecting the FIA/NZ approved cars. Insanity.

to be honest they all sound minor and not surprising in a 20 year old car. All simple enough for a compentent mechanic to fix except #1....and pretty much every car will have that problem. you can mask it using redline shockproof gearbox oil, or if you prefer spend $3k reco-ing the box. they are a great car with enourmous potential. just don't expect it to drive like a new one!

the gauge should (must) come with the sender. pressure BTW. it also gives you an indication of oil temp (cold v warm) due to the drop in pressure when the oil warms up. won't tell you about over temp oil of course but water temp is normally a good indicator of oil temp

The new car we have just put together is running an oil pressure cut out. we have a similar oil pressure switch, plus an override switch so we can start the car. The switch cuts the earth to the ignitor. You need to work out if the switch is normally open or normally closed, if NO you will need a relay as well. We've only run it at sandown once but all worked fine, no issues with unexpected cutouts around the track. Oil light would have to be a big one to be effective....I once saw a car running a trailer indicator on the dash....if they don't see that....

you don't need a harness bar assuming you are caging it....good cage builder will put eyebolt mounts in the cross member between the rear wheel arches, and if not you just loop the harness around the whole cage bar.

its easy solved just run less front torque. the rear diffs are pretty much indestructable (only about 5% smaller than ford 9") and the driveshafts are OK but casn be upgraded. the problem is....the more fwd, the quicker they go....so in an event like this they have to run 50/50 and hope for the best. plenty of options for driveshafts, just jap even have billet stuff on the shelf. its the front diff that is the big issue. where is lofty....how are you guys going with front diffs....you guys have by far the most experience with trying to put big power thru the front in circuit use.

what pics potato farmer :|

immoral but not illegal in my book. I would never give him an inch on the track after that little trick. we should be talking about him more often I reckon, but with the drivel onehd commentary its very hard to follow what he is up to....ie I don't think I've heard his name mentioned. I have on the other hand heard homo's name mentioned "What an amazing pass of the unfunded and untested HRT car to scythe into 21st position. AMAZING!!!11ty"

haha not at all, just had to mix and match a few bits over the years.

you've got me there.....if you have 2 vin#s I could confirm. bit surprised there is a change but nissan has introduced next series changes late in the last series before. hub change or not afaik all 32-34 gtr use the same bearings

recce? what?

lol fences. and llamas. every big (big) power running lots of fwd kills drive shafts and front diffs. the more front they run up to 50% the quicker they go, but the front driveline is just too small. I've got no doubt the only permenent fix is billet driveshafts and a bigger front diff....will require lots of hard work.

probably had very little luck finding stock to import....no idea how they ever got thru as a RAWS though?

f**king impressive since we had to run standard injectors back then :| not an issue these days of course

strange response from nissan - they superseeded the old synchro (32 to series 2 33) design years ago and only the new (series 3 33) is available.

hmmm what is wrong with the stagea. if it is in good condition the swap is way in your favour....personally I would be a little suspicous, or at least careful

btw....what is still to be done??? when and where to debut it? I'm sure you know getting it to the first day is really only the first step, still lots of work getting it to handle well, will be a very tidy runner once it is sorted

looks rubbish. try harder next time