Duncan

bloody hollywood racers. we stay at the treasure island caravan park. wonder why Kel choses team Llama or Donut King instead of Raceworx????

voltage regulator? inside the alternator fuel pressure regulator? end of the fuel rail traction regulator? driver's foot

same....trimmed standard hoses

that won't work (on-off) but this similar one will (momentary on) http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...mp;SUBCATID=448

I understand your point of view but disgree, I think competition on price is important. So does the ACCC. Check out this link where a company was fined $3.4M for the same: http://www.accc.gov.au/content/index.phtml...omItemId/622289 Here's an excerpt: "The Federal Court of Australia has today ordered penalties totalling $3.4 million against four Jurlique companies* and founder Dr Jurgen Klein. Justice Spender in the Brisbane Court made the orders in proceedings instituted by the Australian Competition and Consumer Commission. The court declared that the Jurlique companies and Dr Klein engaged in resale price maintenance in the sale of Jurlique products between 1991 and 2003. Resale price maintenance is prohibited under section 48 of the Trade Practices Act 1974 and occurs where suppliers prevent retailers discounting their products."

on or off lol

you know I've heard that said before but never seen proof? I've had a set of 32 cams degreed so if anyone has sstd 33 or 34 cams done we could check the results. There may be a difference in the wiring, I've seen a coilpack loom with a different plug at the back.

totally disagree. particularly as I was forced off the main straight at oran park once by someone who had watch one too many tv shows. dirt + 200+ = very bad. and these guys are going 300. It is super dangerous, and even if not its about the height of bad sportsmanship. no point saying the guy won't have got past, homo can't have been that sure about relative speeds and he did get by with the same move the lap before. no way homo would have been playing around unless he thought he was a chance of being taken.

RICE RACING you have made your point (whatever it is) more than once in this thread, and it counld not be more off topic of the effectiveness of dynamic wings on an R35. If you want to discuss (or troll, or whatever), computers in R35s start a seperate thread.

stu I'd run the toyos or kumhos depending which is cheaper for bashing around the track. but sooner or later you will want to know "what is the best time this car can do", and the only way to find out is to put the best tyres on it. About 350 each instead of 500. Careful with second hand ones, they look cheap but can we well and truely rooted even if they still show tread depth (heat cycles kill them not wear) lets say the dunlop and bridgestone are a second quicker than the next best tyres (possible at some tracks).....imagine how frustrating it is to try and make up that second through power, suspensions settings, different driving lines etc when you could just bolt the right tyres on. Combined Touring Cars went from A048 control tyres to Kumho V70A and went a full second faster. Then control tyres were dropped, the front runners are buying new dunlops and bridgies, and going 1.5 to 2 seconds faster again. Improved Production still run A048 and despite far more mods being allowed (eg engines are free esp for non turbo cars) their quickest cars are slower than the fastest production cars.

try the A048 with relatively low hot pressures, 30-32. Different tyres react differently

is it a full moon or something? Time to settle down with all the silly carry on thanks kids....I thought I was in the drift section for a second

My opinion of relative performance and price of semi slicks: Dunlop DZ03 (expensive) Bridgestone Re55s (expensive, now) Yoko A050 (expensive) Kumho V70A (medium) Toyo 888 (medium) Pirelli P-Zero (v expensive) Yoko A048R (expensive) Just a guess on the yoko a050 I have not run them personally. they might be quicker than the re55 but its hard to tell because they are a softer compound. Also bridgestone are terrible in the wet with low tread, and the kumhos provide consistent grip well below the wear markers (ie they last a long time without dropping off). Yoko A048 are OK for first 3 laps but drop of really quickly, well before they wear out. I don't know anything about the 2nd tier tyres (falken azenis, kumho ku36, federal 595rs etc etc) except that you will loose at least a second or 2. ultimately if you want to win you need to buy new dz03s each time. anything else depends on how much you can compromise.

rb25 blocks have oil squirters???

looks like Greg set the second fastest time up there too. was talking to Ray Dean who did the regularity the other day and he said organisation and driving standards were fine

lol welcome back thread! for what it's worth my car was TERRIBLE! when it hit the cut...and fuel cut defender did the job perfectly

CAS is different on the r34 too. but no difference in the actual mechanicals

sorry but no way is a GPS receiver more accurate than a dorian. GPS is no quicker than 1/20th a second. Dorian reads 1/1000th GPS is no more accurate than 1m. Dorian reads to under 10cm As long as the dorian is mounted properly of course....if it moves relative to the car it will give an inaccurate result.

if you do buy the whole car you can always get a couple of hundred at simsmetal for it

I'm amazed there is one in the country. Pretty sure no importers have compliance for them so SEVS is out, they are post 1988 so you can't use that rule. So any car came in under either personal import or race use only. btw $36k is a spectacular price. I paid $5k for my march super turbo which is even more rare. sorry just read the ad properly. it is a personal import

whatever that was it was tiny. mine ate a washer once and it made waaay more damage

sounds very bad to me.....fuel is a rubbish lubriant, almost as bad as coolant but assuming you changed it, most of it was removed (no oil cooler?), and the problem was fixed that may not be it.....you don't have the oil that just came out of it?

haha I don't think I'll take running in tips from a sport where a 60 second engine life is considered good personally I start it, warm up the water, then take it for a hard drive a low but not no boost. revs up to about 5000 and as much load as possible without labouring it. 50klm then drop the oil. new mineral oil in then either 2-300klm of road driving (as above, medium revs, low boost, as much load as possible) or on a dyno 100klm. dyno is much more repeatable than having to deal with traffic/speed limits/road conditions. then tune it. drop the oil and race it. I've never had a problem with ring sealing (plenty of other problems lol)

ask for the price on a vipec I'm sure you'll get a response

just do a compression test!