Duncan

Yeah, you need to jack up the car, remove the wheel then remove the plastic cover over the filler neck. Will be interesting to see what broke, there is a failure prone plastic nut that holds the catch in place

right, so they have a ball joint pressed into the LCA outer end, and that is where you are saying the size is wrong? 1mm over is never going to work as a press fit....something is wrong. For shits and giggles i checked an online calculator, you need about 2000 degrees to increase a 40.3mm hole to 41.3....pretty sure it will be a puddle on the floor long before then

which chassis is this?

+1 point for soviet_merlin spotting the sneaky spam (now removed) -1 point to gts_boy for going off at a bot

well, there you go!

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Personally I would not change it unless the current one was causing a problem, just money that does not need to be spent. There are also aftermarket new replacements for the factory unit which might be cheaper than an LS alternator + fitting kit. Of course, if you are actually having voltage drop issues that is a different story...upgrade away

well, the truth is I change the spark plugs every time I rebuild the engine, I can't wait until an oil change is due.

Exactly the same, I just run coppers and change them every oil change or 2. Iridiums or factory platinums just won't last long enough to make the much higher up front cost make sense

cutting and super gluing o-rings is a totally valid approach, happens all the time in heavy machinery stuff

I think that, as GTSBoy said, it will relate to how the oump is mounted in the cradle. Less likely but also possible the cradle is not firmly secured to the mount in the bottom of the tank and has come loose. Either way you need to open the tank back up to check. The main thing to check is that the pump's sock/inlet filter is lying flat right at the bottom of the cradle. Also check the the filter is properly attached to the pump and can't leak, that the pump is secure in the cradle (as the diameter is much smaller than stock), and that the return line from the fuel rail is properly connected so that fuel returns into the cradle not the main tank. I still have surge with low fuel (under 1/4 tank) in long high g corners on the track, even though I use an in tank lift pump + external surge tank. These days there are better designed aftermarket alternatives if you can't get the standard setup to work OK, like https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/collections/nissan-skyline-r32gt-r/products/fpg-new-nissan-skyline-r32-gt-r-bnr32-in-tank-surge-tank-kit-track-edition-te-fits-c34-stagea-v3-fpg-085

I put a set of R34 GTR wheels on it about a decade ago when they were a cheap, direct fit option. I've been considering selling the wheels to an American, downgrading to some rays ce28s and paying off the mortgage

Don't change the pump, unless they have been run dirty or dry (you will see visible damage/scratches inside if so), you just need to rebuild it with new bearings and seals. I've done the one on my r32 twice now, it is pretty straightforward. The fluid should just be regular auto trans fluid. If you open the reservoir you should not see any bubbles in the fluid

Well, if you like spending money there are always aftermarket ally or cf options these days....

I understand 260rs uses R32/33 GTR pin outs, if you don't have them the R32 GTR manual is here: https://www.hgeconsulting.com.au/gtr_32_service_manual.pdf

All I can say is, instead of trying to reduce weight in my stagea, I added power. The handling is OK on better suspension and good tyres.

Good to see you Liz Too close to home...the Stagea is OK after a small issue it took a long time to sort, the Fuga is dead with some sort of hybrid system issue, the race car is in a million bits....the Titan is good except the AC can only do full hot (don't need to fix that for a few months I guess)....the Patrol is as good as it ever was with a non-turbo TD42. God knows where the super march is, it went to get a pack of smokes about 10 years ago and I haven't seen it since.

In the tailshaft? Yeah I had mine swapped across to a larger, rebuildable uni, and it was not cheap for what must mostly have been a welding job. Would be good to hear there is an easier option...

It's been a really long time since I've looked at the standard dumps, and you didn't mention a measurement for them, but from memory they are very small and probably one of those deliberately easy to fix restrictions that the car came with to keep it to "206kw". I remember the R34 ones were better but don't have their measurement handy either I'd change them out for sure, the HPI ones are good price/performance and give a 76mm outlet, which I can see is larger than your 63mm front pipes but I don't see that causing a problem, the front pipes will just be the restriction.

I heard they were going to shut it down and move to facebook to destroy the information/crap ratio, and prevent some people from even accessing it *edit* sorry hang on, that was someone else

Is that the ETS pressure switch? yes it goes above the read diff, and thumbs up for good parts but down for no/crap instructions!!! I have never tried to change the switch, you may need to drop the diff...

A stagea isn't a great place to start for a lightweight car. To help work out what can go, what are you planning to use it for?

Personally, I'd got the newer one. Particularly if you were going to swap out the vspec brakes and shocks anyway

Almost certainly you have had an intercooler pipe come loose, which causes a massive leak under boost. Check in both the engine bay and behind the front bumper depending where your intercooler is (stock or front mounted)

Just go faster and use 3rd 😛