Duncan

oh yeah should have said....it sounds like a gnome hammering on your crank...not a card in the spokes if you want to be sure and have no rush you could get the oil analysed, will tell you for sure if you have a bearing issue

not really....and I've heard a few. does it get louder with revs going up and quieter with revs going down? in any case if you think its got a bearing spun you should not be running it more than a few seconds, the longer you run it the more shit gets through the motor

fixed now?

sorry, I can't help re the vic rules (i have the equivalent in nsw). just wanted to mention that all tarmac rallies in vic run under AASA rules which will be a problem for my reading of those rules

probably a forum permission issue - club members can see but others can't? I'll have a look

both quinn's motors failed I understand. one with a leg out of the block. what rev limit did you put on it andrew?!?

given what you have and how you are using it, I don't think you should change the front camber at all. 2-2.5o is the most you would want for a mostly street driven car, especially on standard road tyres. 3o at the rear is way too much, you should get adjustable bushes for the rear and bring it back to 1.5o, 2 at the most. If you want to spend some money on suspension (great idea), buy a set of nice, hard sway bars. You'll love the difference.

yes you should.. and btw the rb25 is a damn good motor, turbo or not. I bet it puts out good power for 2.5l

bump, eh? bring it along to the 2010 version of the event next weekend http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sa...Da-t307314.html

ahh me too I've never got more than 420...normal is about 350. I suspect the rb30 and high mount turbo won't reduce it...

thanks Duncan for that video too....amazing how quickly they went to a ripple strip at the last turn, I guess those half tyres didn't cut it for more than a few days! nasty crash at 3min too with that car rolling over the armco and down the hill

well.....1 post grey beard and it was a beauty!

jesus 20+psi.... anyway....its not an rb25de....it will be an rb25der lol (mine is a ma09ert). good old nissan engine codes

bloody hell, just had to pay rego on the race car.....green slip has gone up to $15 per year

its almost impossible to get the sump off in the car....for a start there are 4 bolts behind the flywheel. anyway like dave said...take it all out together...then pull it apart on the stand

I think those kits are an excellent option. the standard calipers are very capable and the brembos are certainly not worth the 1500 people ask for them!

excellent work. are they custom?

well done jfk....that car really does move. if he now holds the tin top record that means he beat stu inwood's time from the national hillclimb champs last year.....which would be payback for stu beating him at the national supersprint! last I saw the car it was running re55s, so I doubt it is on slicks now. chris....image a stock looking midnight purple r33 and you have it. externally it is a real sleeper, under the skin it is farking quick!

Hey Matt, cams approve a roll cage by log booking your car. when you log book the car you are assigned a class. assuming the ceffie is rwd you have 2 choices - production sports cars or sports sedans. read both sets of regs and decide which one works best for you - but I think you will probably need to go sports sedan because if you want to race it you would need to choose a category that is active over there. Once your car meets these regs you get the rollcage paperwork and the log book application, get the cage builder to sign the paperwork, and send it all to CAMS. They then send you back a log book and you need to organise for "pre-race scruitiny" where someone comes out and makes sure the car complies with the regs. Then you are right to go.

its really unlikely the rack itself is stuffed, but there are both inner and outer tie rods that do wear. I would strongly suggest changing the inner tie rods and see if that fixes it all up - these steering racks have this wierd nylon bush in them that wears over time.

I guess it depends which bar and which diameter you are getting - but I would expect all 3 settings to be harder than stock, significantly so. Everything works a lot better with a much stiffer bar

only 1 person in this thread who said don't get a cheap turbo has used one. everyone else is trying to feel better about spending more than they had to or is passing on heresay. I'm running a chinese one on an rb30 (only months so far, not years). I had it balanced when I got it, balance was not great as delivered. And I can replace it 3 times before I get close to the price of a mexican garrett. The only problem I had (and its a big one) is that the internal wastegate with mine is too small and unuseable...had to buy an external gate.

did you look into putting where the battery/fuse box was like we did? the bend from the frontmost exit from the cooler to the plenum is not too bad. then the rear exit from the cooler goes up and over the motor to the turbo(s). ryan...I can imagine freezing problems if you are running dry ice thru it for drag purposes....but I assume andrew will be running regular coolant through a second radiator and electric water pump like we will

sso....rallly tas.... who is competing? looks like the good old days with Jimmy well out in front. apparently all of the gtrs are having trouble in one way or another. motors blow, little offs etc.

the other option is race only use (other than personal import). but the regular import rules require a standard car, and in theory the modified parts have to be destroyed after being removed. you can thank toyota for the current import rules - they didn't want to compete with their own landcruisers cheaper from jp