Duncan

also if you have a PFC, that is the warning light...

how's the weekend going tacker? put down the midnight spanners and give us an update!

hey it's the noddy-mobile build thread! I have missed a lot of good stuff in this section. i thought the old noddy-mobile went pretty good, it wasn't far off my 4wd cheater gtr at that Oran Park day last year. If you are going to go faster I am in trouble for morgan park next year

good question! I understand that some of the guys on here have indeed modified the autos to hold more power, but that is not an issue for me. I converted to manual ages ago, so my problem was finding a clutch that could hold the torque but still slips nicely for towing duties. No sign of trouble with diffs/tailshaft/gearbox/driveshafts but I'm not exactly doing skids all day. I'm not sure I have the right clutch (ie it takes the torque but doesn't slip as well as I would like). It is actually back for it's full boost tune now so i should have results soon. Unfortunately the workshop owner is off sick atm so it will be a few days more. Just a reminder looking back through this thread. I was looking for strong low down torque and reliability. I am very happy with the outcome, especially considering the price. I do have concerns (possible?) about the reliabilty of so much china stuff...but then again I think those guys have come a long way so I am willing to give it a chance. This motor will not make 400kw and do great skids. I just want a great tow car and I am sure I have got it. 250awkw is absolutely heaps of power in the real world and I think this setup will be OK for it.

oh yeah I forgot to mention, flames and pops are cool. we are all kids inside, some just hide it better than others.

yeah I've been driving the march super turbo lately and it does indeed have full boost by 1500rpm (ie immediately after idle). which is just as well because it is only 900cc, its a real slug off boost. But the thing to remember is that even though you have full boost you obviously don't have full torque and/or power, there is still a torque curve you are climbing up and the revs for peak torque are unlikely to move much unless you are changing cams as well. yes you get more sooner, but lets say you run 10psi of the charger, at 2000rpm you effectively have almost twice the normal capacity (twice the power?) as standard but that is still not very much (maybe it only makes 50 or 60rwkw at 2000rpm)

fixed!

you guys running no cat on the street are mad, hectic flames or not. the epa fine is somewhere over $20k. anyway, I have no cat and a big diameter exhaust (3.5"). Not making a lot of power (lets face it, 400 is the new 250) and I have never back to back tested a similar size exhaust with a high-flow cat. however....mine seems to make a couple of kw more than I have seen from other similar spec cars. not at all scientific, and my guess is a good high flow cat (eg 4") would flow just as well as no cat

yeah I agree....might have been other issues before but what you are describing now sounds like a big boost leak. Check your hoses for splits because that would explain why it has been getting worse over time

hmmm yeah depends what is farked. none of them are easy tho. the heater hoses are do-able but starter motor out is required. Like Paul said the top bolt is tricky but a stubby 14mm spanner helps heaps. And the top hose in the second diagram is probably doable with the starter out too, we had to change it the other day. one end from below and the other end from above, if the hose clamps are in the right place you can get them. the ones to and from the oil cooler are do-able to, and the one to the front of the block is pretty easy. but it is hard to trace and spot what is going on with the plenum on, no doubt. I just bought the silicon hose kit from just jap to change all these myself but we are taking the motor out anyway. bottom line, if its at the rear of the motor it is either the heater hose or the turbo water line (top one in the second pic). a pain but possible. you will make life easier if you put the rear of the gearbox on a jack and undo the gearbox cross member - creates a lot more space up there.

god don't you start encouraging him too. btw you still need a seat? I can check if they are back in stock on monday

ahh yeah its all easy when the motor is out and no you can't drive it to a workshop you will loose all the coolant in a matter of minutes, even before then it wont be circulating. I never think about that because I always kill the motor/headgasket at the same time because I don't notice the coolant leak....

yeah its a prick of a job. give the car and $500 to a workshop and tell them to call when it's done heater hose is not toooooo bad. but there are also 2 coolant lines under the plenum (1 heater, 1 turbo feed) that often die. its all pretty ugly, start with taking the starter motor out, grab the bandaids, and if its still warm grab the burn cream too

actually first page of this thread is funny..... anf is still around sometimes blitz, adrian and merli still are (admins), and here every now and then. bman, abo bob, cereal killer, tosh, carlo, geoff, jeremey, dino, loz, franks....all lost in the sands of time spoke to franks a few times after he headed to usa (driving a hummer of all things!) dino and abo join the line of ex-nsw presidents who had enough with christian and dan. neil is next. carlo still appears every now and then kinks sold the 31, upgraded(?) to a 33, still around sometimes tosh kinda disappeared from here but now has an s15, we talked a few weeks back when a common friend was in town from jp. bman gave up on the 33 and turned up again years later with an s12 gazelle project - don't know if it ever made the road or track tho loz finally got that gtr...but disappeared again too.

and BD4s shut down about 3 years ago when the partners split....and I have not seen cerealkiller on here in.....forever! at least since he crashed his gtir

lol 7 year old quote! goes to show how old this thread is. for what it is worth anf was based in west ryde until a few years ago when he opened dahtone racing in wetherill parkq

paul you need to get a brass or similar equivalent made up. more vibration/noise etc but who cares in race use having said that some people kill lots of them with dog boxes and others kill none, so no doubt there is a trick to shifting I don't know

haha great work! love the time lapse pic of almost a whole lap at night. the pic along the wall at the last turn is funny too....so crooked...you can see where it used to get hit all the time chris....sure did take forever.....but racing is about close, not about speed. otherwise it's just a super sprint. no better place to learn racing than in slow and even cars.

yep that's correct - a small o-ring in the lip that seals to the fuel rail, and a larger one (that is more of a spacer) to seat it between the head and the rail correctly.

Oh and in the wet.....tyre pressure 1-2psi higher, less camber if you are able to adjust it quickly and easily. soften the shocks a couple of clicks too if you can

No Stu....I miss-typed! definately toe in at the rear not out, I have editted above.

yeah all the reaquired new internal bits will be available from nissan unless you have done something very unusual

love it

btw why is there a triple stack tool chest in the fast lane of the pits?

yep....its got you wrapped up.....its got you wrapped up gooood