Duncan

Just Jap down in kirawee have a consult and can probably assist.

This site suggests it is 3/4 BSP "fits rear of block" - https://www.iee.nz/product-page/heater-tube-kit-gtr

This is really unhelp to flat out guess, but I have a feeling this is something weird like straight (not tapered) m20 thread. The answer is on SAU somewhere....

Didn't get much done this weekend, but I did replace the reverse camera (the one supplied with the head unit had died....didn't last long, might see if they will replace it). One other thing I did get sorted is the weatherseal under the bonnet above the wiper cowling has been loose, same issue on the race car. I picked up a few different aftermarket clips: The CP0244 fit both the stagea and the r32 gtr, so that is a win. Got them from here: https://www.carpartsclipsandfasteners.com.au/product_info.php/honda-crv-accord-integra-civic-odyssey-engine-cowl-bonnet-rubber-p-431?osCsid=2p206d03k3ccri0bou0mpv1d00 Honda parts. Hope I don't hit vtec, yo.

I will be back, but probably not this year. The car is currently stripped so I figure I should meet the new tarmac rally cage regs before I put it all back together, whatever they are. Might drop by for a beer though, it is just up the road these days.

winner!

Nope, keep the purity wheels and just change pads when you need to. Depending how many session you did, 8 days is a lot of work. Plus, tyres in 17s are cheaper and more compliant than 18s for the same diameter.

Its god's country mate, who wouldn't enjoy 0-10, 40klm/h wind and rainy

To be fair, Drawn Together was extremely and deliberately inappropriate even for its time, worth a watch if you can find it. Wikipedia says 2004 which makes it younger than SAU

Well, I know both the manual and old mate's video talk about the lower section, 5mm etc etc. I've never worried about that and not had a 4wd issue, just drive it and forget it unless you notice an issue... BTW the error light is not just for low fluid level, the ATTESSA system itself can flash error codes with that light when there is a specific problem. Also, the torque gauge is not a reliable way to know 4wd is working correctly, it shows what the ATTESSA computer wants to happen, not what is actually happening mechanically. Other than trying a skid, the next best way to check the 4wd would be with all 4 wheels off the ground (hoist or on stands), just start it and put it in 1st to make sure all 4 wheels are turning approximately the same speed.

Yeah the rally car is off the road until our local motorsport body decide what changes they are going to make to cage regulations, and the one currently on it is cracked after a crash. I do have a lead on one nearby though

That depends mostly on the width and offset of your wheels and tyres, and a little on your camber. If you want to know if you can lower your car with the current wheel/tyre combo, jack up a corner, take the shock out and use a second jack under the wheel to push it up to the top of it's travel. If it doesn't hit the guard in that range of travel you can lower it without wheel contact. Same at the front, except you should repeat the test at full left and full right lock as well. If it is going to touch on the way past you can 1. not lower it 2. roll the guards which folds back the lip on the inside of the guard for another 1 cm of clearance. This can cause the pain to crack inside the guard and at the fold, and I wonder if yours has already been done due to paint chips in the second pic 3. flare the guards, similar process as 2 but you continue pushing until the guards are pushed out a little. Done carefully this can be hard to notice, but done badly it will look totally crap 4. shorter the top upper suspension arm. This will give you mode camber at all times which might cause tyre wear depending on your current settings, but as camber increases as the wheel goes up it also helps the wheel tuck into the guard on the way 5. buy better fitting wheels/tyre combo

didn't they make a 4wd commodore for a while? .....reshell time!

I don't understand any benefit of a 2 way diff over a 1.5 way one, either street or track. You don't want your wheels locking together under deceleration in either case. No idea about the other brands, I've only used Nismo 1.5 and shimmed GTR 2 way

Hi mate, if it starts and drives I'd be surprised, and if you bring it onto boost you will probably kill the motor. A larger turbo pushes more air (even at wastegate boost), but the factory ECU will only have limited ability to deal with that (say, within a couple of %). Once it goes outside what it expects, it adds heaps of fuel and removes heaps of timing to keep the engine safe from what it expects is a malfunction. You'll need a tune and/or aftermarket ECU, larger injectors, either larger air flow meter or swap to MAP sensor, probably a boost control solenoid, all the usual.

Great post! If you want the brake pedal higher, you can adjust it at the threaded rod/clevis. If you have run out of length the rod could be modified/lengthened

Looks good Matt, great to see some progress.

Excellent information, particularly re ATF resistance since that is what the xfer case and actuator both run.

The install section of that doc states the check engine light will stay on if any sensor value is highlighted, and your cat temp sensor is. You need to find that wiring and identify how it was removed, it might have just been cut and left loose.

actually, far more useful. A long long time ago in a forum very near there was a Power FC FAQ thread. I don't know if the PDF is still in that thread but I kept a copy here: https://www.hgeconsulting.com.au/Apexi_PowerFC_FAQ.pdf

A PowerFC is pretty OG, I've forgotten pretty much everything about it. When you say the lights are on, you mean always on, not flashing, right? I have a manual for FC Edit which only talks about flashing lights: And yes you are right, if the exhaust temp sensor plug is disconnected it will never cause a problem. It is possible in your case the wires were cut and it is earthing out somehow. Either way you can ignore that,

My reading and understanding is that because it is already registered, Service NSW just need a blue slip with the new details (engine number etc). You need to check with the blue slip station on what they need, that is probably where the engineer's info comes in.

roughly or exactly? Is that second bolt next to it also loose? Any sign of locktite on the bolts?

And to add to that....if you have a dry sump you can get 240v oil heaters for the oil tank which might let you cut a lot of idling time. It can't be good for longevity or oil quality to sit running rich with loose clearances for 12min....

My understanding, if it is currently NSW registered is you need the blue slip to update the rego. If not registered you need all the doco to establish a new rego - blue slip, pink slip, import approval, weighbridge slip, proof of ownership etc. AFAIK any engineer report is required for the blue slip, not establishing the rego