Duncan

OK I thought I was a fan of dodgy turbos....but that is pretty good.

I just had an rb30/25 built at Hills Motorsport in Castle Hill, I am very happy with the price and result. Thread is over here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Santa-t300855.html

yeah but not unless it is broken....

hey that was easy!

Hi guys, we are a fair way overbooked for this event - so those that can't make it just send me a pm saying if want a refund or credit towards the next one.

you didn't mean that "no", right? anyway good to hear its sorted, but it will still be the standard progressive style. If you really want to lock it up you need the hks kansai torque split controller or something custom based around motec or similar that has PWC output. BTW thanks for posting the fix. I was going to try using no wheel sensors on the next race car because I had a theory attessa doesn't use them (ABS control is in the same unit which might have explained the inputs). But now I know it is required in some way.

yeah when they say relevent regulations they mean if there are any specific regs in what you are doing. for instance super cars may have tighter requirements than schedule A. But when the specific regs for an event or category say nothing you only have to follow the above. I can't imaging AASA having any documented rules as a basic standard. They seem to issue everything as event sup regs. But in any case if you follow the rules above (1 peice fixed back seat) I'm sure you'll be fine. I use ADR approved ones but many people don't and don't have a problem.

yeah that's what I'd always assumed. Its an indication of a big hit not a guarantee that the sensor no longer works, particularly since it's not mechanically connected to the unit. shane....can't tell with the console in if the dye pack is broken. but in most other cases when there is a failure the 4wd light will be on on the dash. Has your globe been removed? Also there is a led on the computer under the parcel tray that will flash the code number if it detects a failure. of course it's possible the whole system is stuffed in some other (probably power or earth) way that won't show a warning light

I'm 99% sure GTR and GTST doors are the same, ie the series 1 doors are much lighter (no intrusion bars). Could you look into removing the bars from a later model door? BTW yes the alloy hat DBA5000 rotors are significantly lighter. I don't have the exact weights but it is very noticeable.

I do.....pm sent.

they won't be different internally within a given brand....the larger ones just have larger surface areas. and I agree....nissan's recommendation sounds more relevent to a snow bound country to me. 10 or 15w40 or even 20w50 if the motor is a little worn

my opinion only....but i have seen them compared in very similar circumstances

sorry well and truely full. plenty of spots holding stop watches though

lol. spill.

bugger I had my money on gnomes for sure

the o/s guys would have to be raving mad to turn up without having done some track specific testing and practice. I don't reckon it cost them $10 to get the cars/crew/gear/driver here.

I don't think they are that sensitive. the only one we ever killed took 6 rolls to break it. other ones have been through some pretty major crashes and come out working. I think you may well be fine with a 50/50 split on dirt if you want it- pretty much anyone who has played with this seriously in a big power car on tarmac has gone quicker and quicker with more fwd until stuff starts breaking.

the lines into the oil cooler point upwards do they? best idea would be to mount it so the lines hang down like I did but its a bit late now. if the lines exit upwards you only have 2 options to empty the cooler: 1/ undo the lines and turn the car up side down until the oil stops coming out of the cooler 2/ take the oil cooler off the car and just turn it upside down. 2 is more convenient normally

yeah master cylinder leak for sure. with the engine off, put your foot on the brake hard. once the normal pedal movement is taken up the pedal should stay firm....does it slowly drop to the floor instead?

for what it's worth....we had the same chat in motorsport recently. I would never patch a semi slick....but there were a couple of people who had, and had no problems. Still doesn't change my mind! I don't need a tyre letting go at 200

nah the tighter the track the more likely you are to get away with a bit of sliding. You can't afford to compromise mid corner speed or corner exit on a quick turn (eg turn1 at Eastern Creek), but you can do whatever the hell you like in a slow corner like turn [email protected] long as you are pointing the right way at the end of the corner. Speaking of wakefield.....sliding the rear of the car through the top of the track (4-5-6) is a lovely way to get through there quickly. and equally in a slow FWD car with lots of understeer, turn in very early and slide across the apex to maintain corner speed as best you can. basically...its just not a simple yes or no! sliding a little can be faster but not in a long race.

Hi Jesse, the CAMS website has the CAMS manual on it. The seat and belt requirements are in one of the "general requirements for racing" sections

gret to see so many on here running in the series. huge congrats to Stu Inwood - he set (and kept forever) the SVD record on a day that the track was in poor condition....pretty much everyone else was 1-2 sec off previous times

yes, badly (unevenly) worn tyres can cause the car to pull to one side. easy enought to check....swap the tyres side to side

yeah good result stu. it is pretty well stripped including most of the wiring too right?