Duncan

indeed - I would only ever use electric senders for in cabin stuff (exept boost, that's pretty safe). Although more expensive they are must safer in terms of senders and plumbing them in BTW what happened to URAS?

how very unfortunate. I was aksing because I was looking into this but am not happy to pay $12k for something that may not come with warranty that it is OK. In particular - if there is no warranty expected I think it is important to tear the motor down and check all clearances even though it is brand new and from nissan. I trust no-one.

actually, that was too polite. clinton, don't complain unless you are willing to do something about it (ie report it). The admins of the site are volunteers not trained spam removing monkeys.

actually, I didn't see you report it either? maybe you should if you think it is spam?

mountainrunner has access to some bosch senders and their calibration curves for datalogging which is very handy! adrian, I run autometer electic pressure gauges on both race cars and they have been faultless. but for trouble shooting a problem, a $40 mechanical gauge on the pressure side in the engine bay can not be beaten. In fact for that sort of price I don't know why every modified skyline doesn't have one.

yeah I welded up all mine a few years back, no problemo. Like you I guess they are for manufacture

hey lawler - when you see this rubbish hit the "report a post button" so an admin can delete it. we don't necessarily catch everything straight away

lol I really want to know what use the garages are unless you happen to have a 10om downhill and rearward sloping area that really needs a bunch of garages

sorry to hear that mate - can I ask, when you say N1 crate motor, did you just buy a complete motor from nissan? did anyone pull it down to check the clearances? Assuming it was an untouched crate motor and only lasted 12000klm, I think you would have a decent claim for warranty under fair trading laws. You would certainly expect that sort of motor/investment to last longer.

nah JB is an Oran Park specialist, but in good news for you John I am available that day.

hahah its funny isn't it. laptimes are the only thing that matter for qualifying but they don't tell much of a story. as Kel said I ended up staying in the muscle category although a few of the guys I normally race with are allowed to stay in production cars. As it happens its not really an issue so far because with high boost my car is in the top few anyway. It definately should not be but I guess the quick cars stayed home.....so meh. basically I had another frustrating day..... P1....car was absolutely diabolical to drive, it oversteered like crazy on the exit of every corner P2....blew a cooler pipe off, and the car was still oversteering Q.....4 laps then pulled in because it was too hot. the cooler pipe was very annoying - once again proving the only people you can trust to work on a race car are yourselves. Lots of good work was done on the car, quickly, last week - but it counts for nothing if they forget even 1 hose clamp can't wait till I have a garage and any f**k ups are exclusively our fault! cars was handling like an absolute bucket of shit (probably made for great photos!), with crazy oversteer out of every corner. I actually pulled in during P1 because it was so bad I though something was broken. Still managed the quickest lap of the day but it was....."tricky". When we went to put new tyres on for qualifying the problem was clear - we had killed the rear tyres at Mt Buller with overinflation - the middle of the tyre was bald but the outsides were OK so I had not noticed (need to always check properly). Anyway - with the new tyres on that problem is well and truely solved, the handling is back to brilliant now. I love a GTR when it is behaving they are soooo easy to drive. P2 was also over after 5 laps due to the cooler pipe blowing off. Don't get me started again. My race car has been to heaps of workshops and I have never got it back perfect (ie ready to race) Qualifying was looking OK - car was handling great and going well, but it was still getting hot. I did a couple of laps to warm the tyres then pulled in to get Neil and Scott to check the pressures. Soon as I pulled in the temps climbed, water hit 120 and oil hit 140. I did 2 slow laps to cool down but they were staying up, so I retired. So....for tomorrow.....I've got no doubt Greg has the quickest car on the grid but I might be able to hold on to second. I qualified 5th but everything in front of me is 2wd so I have a decent chance to take some at the start. But most likely unless the water temps magically get OK I will have to retire after 4-5 laps. I'll try low boost and see if that keeps me in the game. BTW....the $800 PWR top of the line radiator is exactly as bad as the $350 china radiator. Might as well have thrown $500 on the ground and stomped on it. And to add insult to injury the china radiator was direct fit, and the PWR require heaps of work.

lol. I want the bridge. I wonder how much?

not sure which tie rods are longer, but you should look into "steering rack spacers". The screw into the rack and then the tie rod screws onto the end, spacing it out. as for thread I am also not sure - but it may have different threads in 33 for front vs rear steering rack, 32 certainly does, so make sure you specify front.

can't remember but it would not have been over 200....it was in the gtst which had about 160rwkw. Eastern Creek straight is definately faster than a 1klm runway because even though it's shorter you enter it at 100, really quick cars do 240-280 there. And like Snowy said Phillip Island is an order of magnitude quicker because you enter it at 180

well another option...I'll take mine to Oran Park on Friday and Sat for the race meet and there is no entry fee - so if you get there you are welcome to borrow it.

yeah mate it is....off to Oran Park this weekend, it is closing next weekend so it's my second last chance

meh. still looks like its an rb20

for what it's worth...I'm using the steel ones Neil is having trouble with, and no problems atm. Mine have had far less use than his though. One other problem with them is 20l is bloody heavy to hold the jerry while it slowly fills....and for a skyline 20l jerrys really are not big enough (my car does about 100l/100klm at full noise). pete - the trailer mounts are for the rectangular plastic or metal 20l jerries that neil and i have. same as the death trailer which has 4 mounts on it. stu - no such rules with CAMS, and I'd be surprised if adnra had one considering how the jungle juice always comes in metal containers. russ - neil already has a dipstick in the car - it sits between the steering wheel and the seat. ha ha ha.

lol variation in e85 is an issue eh....they should check the consistency of 98 octane supplies from the pump! amazing that a national body could allow such a conflict of interest to exist....no credability....but I'm sure they will have to act once there is enough pressure.

I recommend you listen to them all while your ban winds down?

UAS are one of the few that resells these controllers, their number is 9620 9000 If you can't get in contact with them try contacting mountainrunner on these forums

thats about the only thing I can think of on there - not relevent though. or maybe they mean electric plug on the aac, pcv or something

I've run the 1000m at Goulburn airport and it was an absolute yawn. I would have though full laps of the bowl at Lang Langs would be worth doing snowy?

nasty! oi....when did it become pick on stageas day

I'd give the n1 pump a miss (costs more and not really right for a road car). But Ben (head mechanic at UAS) is excellent and very careful and thorough in his work. He built the last race engine in my car and it is going strong