Duncan

I've always assumed it was a one way treatment.....would be interesting to hear if there was a way to remove it but I assumed the only option was tear everything down and clean it properly.

nope. But I assume they would use the stock pump and a programable ECU with a PWCM output to control the pump based on wheel speed input or something like that

holy shit....george! been a while, where've you been hiding?

It's this Friday right? We are racing Fri/Sat there so can't do this as well - but I hope you get a few people along since its the last chance to do some laps around the north circuit!

I have a navara - from now on I am going to rev it every time i pull up next to a skyline

depends what you want to do? If you are just removing aircon and some other simple stuff - just unplug them and don't touch anything else, that way you know you haven't broken anything. If you want to redo some wiring thats a bit tricker and we'd need to know exactly what you are doing Or if you want to start from scratch and re-wire everything that's another story again!

yeah M6 and I have only ever seen 1 thread pitch used in m6 bolts - so I don't think you can go wrong. just make sure it is long enough to bottom right out in the threaded section of the balancer, its a bit of a big job for an m6 bolt so you want plenty of thread contact....I've heard of people stripping the thread in the balancer which is "a bad thing"

sold! to me (I hope) just what i need for the race car, I've been looking for another set. send me your bank details and I'll organise Mark to grab them sometime

I've got one but I'm looking for 400...let me know if you want it. Came out of a car that got crashzored, but it was working fine

redline water wetter has been excellent for me, and it did reduce my temps from 133o peak back to 121o, so 10-15o cooler sounds right. Also, running straight distilled water (no coolant) takes another 8-10o out of the temps as well. Having said all that, this was for full on 20 min race use (and I have other temp problems), I don't think you should have to run this stuff in a road car.....you have some other issue you need to fix. Also be aware redline water wetter is not anti freeze, so if temps drop under 0 you risk splitting the radiator or cracking the block.

looks dusty last I saw it!

I'd suggest neither. You really want longer lower control arms not shorter upper arms if possible

David....come the the texikhana on 31/1 and give your new car a good run!

this is way late....but the seat belts are probably not your biggest issue - I've never seen a jap bolt in cage that meets CAMS regulations. Just get the belt mounts put in when you get a proper cage put in

omg I haven't heard of meggala in years. he did heaps of the early importing/projects/engine swaps and was one of the founding admins of this site

that'll do me....send me your bank details, I'll need it shipped to 2138.

I've entered mine, the stagea is pretty big but these courses are pretty open as well. Should be interesting to see how it goes

lol didn't take her long to decide between Texi and Targa Westpoint. Considering she was going to pay you back for thrashing the z at Oran Park I think she's made the wrong choice entries are looking good at the moment - if you are thinking about entering don't delay because it will probably fill up!

yeah its a good guide, from his tune to win book which is worth a read. this wasn't the full list though he blames the driver as the first item in a lot of the lists.....which I reckon is spot on in many cases

what about 3l motor and high mount turbo? interesting wheels above, they are the spitting image of 32 gtr vpsec wheels except for the centre cap

uggh the stagea looks terrible.

There are 2 little vacuum hoses up there, to and from the fuel pressure regulator and another (cant remember where it goes off the top of my head). Make sure they are both in place

lol crazy! I hope you are an organ donor

Its not that easy! S1 vs S2 vs R34 pin outs are not the same although they are similar

you gotta be really careful with this sort of problem on a new motor. The first few minutes of running are really important for the rings bedding in, and if it is pumping fuel but not firing you can get "fuel-wash" which will glaze the bores and make it very hard for the rings to bed in correctly. yes the standard setup has a non-return valve in the tank, but if you don't have it now you might just need to crank it a second or 2 longer. I've run without the valve for years. I'm assuming from your post above that everything is OK now once it is started? get that motor run in, nice and hard, asap! a mechanical fuel pressure guage is under $50 - grab one and put it into the pressure line - it will tell you sooo much with so little stuffing around.