Duncan

Hey guys, Irace have a round at Oran Park on Friday 15 and Saturday 16 Jan. This is genuinely the second last chance to race at Oran Park. It's Irace so essentially no rules - even my car can't run in production cars (more than 5 years old) so it is running in "muscle cars" where I will get slaughtered. Still - its about the last chance around. To race there you need an Irace logbook, and a CAMS or AASA race license, thats about it. http://www.irace.net.au I'll be there pending fixing my cooling problems - who else is in???

updates!

hmm that is a bit of a PR job there from Targa. They also made E85 available at mt buller at only$3/l (ie 300% mark up on pump price). But that is of absolutely no use when we have to have standard injectors and fuel pumps - they are already running at capacity on unleaded so they will be at least 30% short running E85. Having said that.....for non-production classes I reckon you'd be mad to run anything else, and it seems like a no-brainer to me for drag racing. Its good to see comments directly from Andra - but none of this makes sense. You happily let competitors run all sorts of fuels not available at any pumps (I am yet to see methanol or that roo stuff at a pump) so my guess is the real reason is that you are holding out for someone to pay ANDRA a fat fee for the rights (and if you let ethanol in for free, the people how paid up previousl would be up in arms). Soon enough (year or 2) e85 will be all over the place. In my opinion the "green" claims of the fuel are rubbish but why not look at the substantially lower cost to your competitors compared to other fuels - and at the same time ban them in all but the top category to force costs down.

so can anyone recommend a brand other than snap on that has been worth buying? I really don't want strap on gear in the garage in case people get the wrong impression (ie I am a fool who pays for a brand name even if there are better tools at a cheaper price)

sorry for the slow response - I haven't used them but I have recently bought a set to put under the new race car. I'll keep an eye on the welds and wear on the rod ends but I am not particularly concerned - Just Jap have sold hundreds of those arms. Having said that, I would stay away from arms with rod ends instead of bushes on road cars, there is a reason no manufacturers put rod ends in their road cars.

yeah not surprised - they are a whole other level up from the cars around. and speaking of levels, the r35 is running it gt2 not outright, right? It is much more road car than the top level cars

must be school holidays again - this thread is so far off topic I can't remember where it started. Keep it on topic in future or expect warnings/bannings

It's on again: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Te...an-t298118.html Sunday 31 January get your entries in and get out there so we can keep running these events!

stu the problem is total noise, no the side pipes per se. can you bolt up a normal, properly muffled system of some sort? I think you might find it useful in a few places not just here. And there are some things to make sure you do like a 45 or 90o turn at the exit to point the sound downwards that make a big difference in legality. I'm sure Neil has some tips he always struggled with noise from the crapri. Thanks everyone for the entries - still plenty of spots available though!

my radiator is a 40mm china special, and the current oil cooler is an earls one, not sure of the exact number of rows it is about 30cm high. keep in mind yuo will have to replace the cooler everytime you kill a motor with a bearing issue, so I figure you might as well buy a cheap cooler. the new radiator is a 55mm pwr cross flow, and I will move the oil cooler from in front. there is no a/c of course so there is little restriction in front. i am not happy with the seal of the radiator to the cross member atm - clark rubber sell some nice foam sealant with adhesive on one side perfect for filling in any gaps.

I can give you advice on how not to cool the car if you like for what it's worth, my oil cooler setup is the standard water to oil stuff at the oil filter, and a big oil cooler in front of the radiator. As you know I am having real water temp troubles so I will be moving it from there, and at the moment my plan is to move it to the passenger wheel well. the reason I have not put it there in the past is I was worried about knocking it off one day, but I just have to do something about the water temps

excellent point about the boss....the quick release I have puts the wheel 10cm closer as well, you almost certainly want one so remember to take that into account. and you will love how hard it is to find the indicators after you have fitted one

lol don't you beleive it! once you have a house you have kids, then it's ALL over.

yeah I am very happy with the price. $10k is a lot of money, but you have to look at how much time and parts there are in this build. I beleive it was very cheap for the work that was done. Good call on the cooler pipe, might see what I can do. nothing but trouble getting it running, but nothing to do with the job the shop did. For instance, once the whole thing had been assembled and put on the dyno the first time they discovered a crack in the block at a welsh plug at the rear of the head. I hadn't asked for it to be xrayed, they took a chance and lost. And then the second time it was put together the f**king alarm control module failed - but of course that is the last thing you think to check. and of course the R34 GTT PFC is not a direct fit in my car which needed some stuffing around too. once it was all together it has been fine though, and the run-in tune was quick and easy. Idle control has been a bit of a pain with the new plenum/throttle/cruise control/aac mvoed etc etc but its all good now. pretty sure it is the standard tb - I am not looking for more than 300kw from this setup and I'm sure the standard one will be enough for that. yeah they used the pro-engines sump adaptor, about $800 including all fasteners from memory, fit first time without any mods required. also another complexity in a 4wd/rb30 is the oil pick up because the rb30 point is right where the driveshaft goes through the diff. the guys at hills modified it to plug the normal hole and drill into the block at the right place same as a 26 block - very precise work required to get that right. often people just run external oil feeds to the pump, that is probably both cheaper and easier.

yeah it is beautiful to drive, especially pulling away from idle. no idea what it will actually end up doing, I was aiming for about 250kw but a focus on torque. If I ever decide to get silly it has all of the required supporting stuff except injectors and an expensive turbo to go 300+. Cost was about $10k but that did include some other stuff like a new alarm, clutch, intercooler etc etc. I was going to keep the standard manifold but there may have been clearance issues to the bonnet, and the china front facing manifolds are dirt cheap these days.

hahah well in this case you've actually tried it and lived so you are one up on me! I'm not giving it a go, tyres just take too much punishment, I've seen (and had) too many let go for no reason to trust that that does have something wrong

yep that sounds about right. I take it you are bolting it straight to the floor (no rails). Also the 32 wheel tilts and slides is 33 the same? Assuming the wheel slides I set the seat so the pedals are a little close than normal driving (ie easily push clutch and throttle to the floor), then set the wheel a little closer than the normal "wrist with the arms straight" guide. i find sitting a little closer than normal for the road makes it a little easier to drive in anger. you should consider fitting rails though, you may regret not having the flexability. Or at least a couple of bolt points on the floor.

I would throw it too. You will understand after you have had a tyre let go at over 200. It sucks but that's racing!

Well it has been a while, but I picked up the car from Hills Motorsport yesterday. It got dropped off as a standard engine bay with a pretty sick (not sik) motor. It came back like this: Basically it has an rb30 bottom end, skyline rb25 head, forged rods and pistons, new bearings, seals etc etc. High mount ebay nugget t3/t4 turbo (go china!) Front facing plenum Pretty much everything else as before (powerfc, manual, sydneykid shocks and springs, d2 8spot front brakes). So far its only being run in so it hasn't been pushed or tuned - but the torque down low is amazing and a real turn around from the normal (slightly disappointing) standard stagea feeling. Turbo is making 7psi at 2,000 so I'm sure it will come on nice and early as I hoped, the run we did at 10psi had 160awkw which is a little more than the old setup made on 14psi - but the response even off boost is the real difference. Very happy A+++ would buy again!

Yeah I'll be in for sure, I've just got the car back from those guys after a bit of work

Ben...would you like to take over handling the entries? We would certainly appreciate the help considering we are trying to recover from sns still!

I've just put a 30 block in mine with CP pistons, spool rods, acl bearings. pretty cheap price for bits these days.

umm where are you? I have a 32 gtr abs unit you can have for $400.

damn heavy. is that exact enough?

850 is about the most I have seen, even in a long race. we run it pretty rich though