Duncan

yeah mate there is no issue at all with low cars, we have identidied a lovely straight flat entrance. anything below about 3cm gound clearance may have a problem but thats about it

Corey I 100% have your form here. no probs at all.

Hi guys, the show will run from 10-4, so as an entrant you would want to be there for about 9 if you are bringing car only or a little earlier (we will be there from 6) if you have a display, or trailer, or whatever

yeah nisskid I know you regularly run stretched tyres and so do many people, and you probably have not had an issue. but to me going against the actual manufacturer's recommendation, as well as ADRs so it looks drift hectic is pretty silly. just buy wheels and tyres that fit the car properly and safely. any time you are relying on a inward stretched sidewall and camber to tuck the wheel inside the guard it is getting pretty silly.

wtf is happening with the temps at buller? currently 5o are they kidding? http://www.weatherzone.com.au/vic/alpine-areas/mount-buller wet fri/sat dry sunday either way max temp over the next 5 days is meant to be 15. I can't believe all you skirts are skipping this event. Have any of you ever given it a run? any tips?

Hey Corey I don't have your form, but Nick has the first 30 odd that came through so hopefully he can confirm. Don't worry too much tho anyone we can sort out any issues on the day

why is this thead still here? The more i read the dumber i get!

I hope........ its an absolute disastrous flop, and as a result the state government throw an equivalent amount of money for a permanent circuit to replace Oran Park Sorry I can't support the event. I would love to see Chisel play though

Here was my laps from Phillip Island the other week, national super sprint

yep that's right, and the pressure of the cap dictates the maximum temp the system will get to. Once it reaches the cap's pressure it will let water out and the coolant won't get any warmer. 1.2 bar is about 120o and 1.3 bar about 132o. Assuming something else like a heater hose doesn't crack under that pressure first of course.

bloody hell 1.47s. the old girl is still going great. car is OK too. ahahahahahahaha

very understated as always Dave. Natsoft says your 1.45.9 was second in qualifying for the national champs by .12 of a second behind a 5.8 litre falcon, excellent work. What happened in the racing? DNF race 1 and then raining all weekend as well?

haha funny article too....looks like they forgot our little march!

lol. yeah looks alright at first glance....good to see

I got mine from Noltec - I assume they are called Whiteline Plus these days

Nathan it will be easier to pick a class to enter once the classes and rules are released! You need to get the info out asap so people know what they can and can't do. Russ....good to hear about the car....why would you stuff around with a 35 when you have a perfectly good 32 around?!?

what was on? (drifting?) BTW Damo where is your show n shine entry! We need 10 stageas to get our own category and we're getting close

I am almost certain Autech also did automatic r33 GTRs with no turbo ie rb26de. BTW is this just out of interest, or do you want one? You could not get compliance if you found one to import, but if you really wanted to build one your probably could with a stagea box (just need to get the auto computer control sorted)

Yeah I reckon rotating tyres front to back will get you 1-2 more days, and if you can swap them side to side as well maybe 1 more day. All depends on which tracks you go to, alignment settings etc etc. so....bridgestone re55 are asymetric (can't swap sides) which makes dunlop dz03 the best bet. But dunlop know this and they tyres are veeeery expensive. BTW gtr/gtst/whatever, in my experience they always run out of front grip first. So get the biggest tyre you can on the front, then match up the rear. If you are getting power oversteer out of corners.....that is the driver's job to fix

That's where i would start, you need the pads back out to have a good look. Wheel back off, undo the 2 big bolts that hold the caliper onto the hub. If it does not come free easily lever it off the disc. then take the pads back out, and have a good look at the caliper pistons (be sure not to let the caliper dangle on the brakeline - support it). can you push the pistons back so they are level with the caliper (or at least even on both sides)? If not get the caliper rebuilt (or a new one if it is a G4/D2/Ksport one lol) if so push them right back, and put the caliper back on the disc. is the disc exactly in the centre of the caliper? If not, do you have the correct offset disc? O if it is close to centred you can use a washer or shim to space the caliper inwards a little - put the washer between the hub and the caliper.

well...is the disc exactly in the centre between the 2 sides of the caliper? even 1/2mm can make a big difference, so most likely either the wrong offset disc or inaccurate caliper brackets. The good news is, inside too tight can be corrected using shims or washers between the hub and the caliper to space the caliper inwards a little. The G4/D2/Ksport 8 piston brake kits come with shims for this exact purpose because they know not to trust the factory's "tolerances" 2nd....some pads are simply bigger than others new. You can always grid a little off. 3rd....if it is actually a piston not retracting ie if you pull the caliper off and you can't get the piston to sit flush....then you have a seized piston and this will stuff your braking performance. In this case remove the caliper and get it rebuilt, may be expensive if the brake piston or bore are damaged.

yep...in this thread somewhere! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ma...ld-t221982.html

like I said...can if you have to we did in the race car but in a road car, just replace them

damn straight....vic love u turns I could not understand it. there were even ads on the highway like...."Hicktown VIC, worth doing a U-turn for!" not legal here at lights

you can definately get the gtr outers seperate...I have a bought a pair in the past