Duncan

lol. yeah looks alright at first glance....good to see

I got mine from Noltec - I assume they are called Whiteline Plus these days

Nathan it will be easier to pick a class to enter once the classes and rules are released! You need to get the info out asap so people know what they can and can't do. Russ....good to hear about the car....why would you stuff around with a 35 when you have a perfectly good 32 around?!?

what was on? (drifting?) BTW Damo where is your show n shine entry! We need 10 stageas to get our own category and we're getting close

I am almost certain Autech also did automatic r33 GTRs with no turbo ie rb26de. BTW is this just out of interest, or do you want one? You could not get compliance if you found one to import, but if you really wanted to build one your probably could with a stagea box (just need to get the auto computer control sorted)

Yeah I reckon rotating tyres front to back will get you 1-2 more days, and if you can swap them side to side as well maybe 1 more day. All depends on which tracks you go to, alignment settings etc etc. so....bridgestone re55 are asymetric (can't swap sides) which makes dunlop dz03 the best bet. But dunlop know this and they tyres are veeeery expensive. BTW gtr/gtst/whatever, in my experience they always run out of front grip first. So get the biggest tyre you can on the front, then match up the rear. If you are getting power oversteer out of corners.....that is the driver's job to fix

That's where i would start, you need the pads back out to have a good look. Wheel back off, undo the 2 big bolts that hold the caliper onto the hub. If it does not come free easily lever it off the disc. then take the pads back out, and have a good look at the caliper pistons (be sure not to let the caliper dangle on the brakeline - support it). can you push the pistons back so they are level with the caliper (or at least even on both sides)? If not get the caliper rebuilt (or a new one if it is a G4/D2/Ksport one lol) if so push them right back, and put the caliper back on the disc. is the disc exactly in the centre of the caliper? If not, do you have the correct offset disc? O if it is close to centred you can use a washer or shim to space the caliper inwards a little - put the washer between the hub and the caliper.

well...is the disc exactly in the centre between the 2 sides of the caliper? even 1/2mm can make a big difference, so most likely either the wrong offset disc or inaccurate caliper brackets. The good news is, inside too tight can be corrected using shims or washers between the hub and the caliper to space the caliper inwards a little. The G4/D2/Ksport 8 piston brake kits come with shims for this exact purpose because they know not to trust the factory's "tolerances" 2nd....some pads are simply bigger than others new. You can always grid a little off. 3rd....if it is actually a piston not retracting ie if you pull the caliper off and you can't get the piston to sit flush....then you have a seized piston and this will stuff your braking performance. In this case remove the caliper and get it rebuilt, may be expensive if the brake piston or bore are damaged.

yep...in this thread somewhere! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ma...ld-t221982.html

like I said...can if you have to we did in the race car but in a road car, just replace them

damn straight....vic love u turns I could not understand it. there were even ads on the highway like...."Hicktown VIC, worth doing a U-turn for!" not legal here at lights

you can definately get the gtr outers seperate...I have a bought a pair in the past

Kel and I are in too! Thanks Matt.

yeah I had to go nissan to replace that ball joint too. you can re-engineer the vwhole thing to take a bush and fixed arm if you need to, but I guess not

well....very kind of just jap to offer a refund if that is the case!

so.....did anyone from here give this a shot?

theres a place on the corner of princes hwy and canal rd in st peters near the airport. they have always had them on the shelf when i needed one. starters too

good luck with the build Noddy....I'd love to pull the engine out after 3 years to check it was OK lol. as for the harnesses, I use rollcage for 2 rear points, factory seatbelt points for rear 2 and have put an eyelet with reinforced plate in the floor at the correct location for points 5 and 6. Factory points are great you know they have been comprehensively engineered and tested.

I've had plastic crimpies in the car for years

yeah there are a billion bushes and bits that can wear....but the subframe bushes are a good bet. actually replacing them is a big job (subframe out) so many people chuck in "pineapples" to lock the damaged bushes in place. other than that....one of: diff backlash worn wheel bearings worn lower control arm ball joints worn rear lower inner control arm bushes worn rear upper inner control arm bushes worn rear upper outer control arm bushes worn rear upper inner traction arm bushes worn rear upper outer traction arm bushes worn rear hicas balljoints worn rear inner tie rod ends worn rear outer tie rod ends worn diff bushes stuffed cv joints (axles) stuffed tailshaft uni stuffed tailshaft cv gearbox clearance or bearing issues worn gearbox mount bushes

not to mention you need to pull the whole motor apart and clean it thoroughly to remove the bearing material from everywhere. you are mad if you just chuck new bearings in and bolt it back up again

Basically Selby bought the factory when Whiteline moved their manufacturing off shore a couple of years back. Selby's ownership has changed and Gary is no longer involved. Basically - Selby's are a brilliant bunch to have around, I love that we can get hold of locally made sway bars for these cars. Whiteline though remain a great choice for cheap, generic sway bars that will suit 80% of cars....and bigger swaybars are about the best modification you can make for a car's handling BTW yes Cisco hollow gear will be a 1kg or 2 lighter if you think that is more important that price and adjustability. Obviously they are also softer for the same diameter so make sure you get the next size up if you want the same effect.

sorry mate I've got some bad news for you....they might discourage them but it won't stop em....I've still got drool everywhere!

hey they both start with "T" Thanks Shant...we are very much an "amateur" show compared to the Autosalons of the world, but the committee have been working their arses off getting a great location, great feature cars, great sponsors and a long entry list. I reckon the guys are doing a great job considering its a second job! We still have heaps of space available for cars and want to make this show HUGE! If you thought about coming along but don't think your car is special enough.....ENTER! This is a club event not a global domination and its all about participation

Maybe no wheelspin is occuring Seriously though I'm not sure that wheelspin is actually in input to the ATTESSA ECU - those pins may just got straight through to the ABS computer in the same place. I am pretty sure Lat G, Long G and throttle position are by far the most important inputs so I would suspect TPS first.... BTW I is there any truth to the rumour this car will be on display at the SAU NSW Show n Shine in 2 weeks?