Duncan

it is. and its a hge pita now it is missifiring. need to pull the plugs just to find out what they are, I searched www.marchsuperturboaustralia.com but would not find the type

it is fairly straightforward to get rid of the factory cooler and bolt a oil filter relocator directly to the block. a lot cheaper when nissan want that sort of money for the factory bit.

Yeah pretty sure you are meant to stamp the original number + R when you put a brand new block in a car. brand newies come with no engine number at all.

got a (hand-written) letter back from the RSPCA.... "Dear Duncan and Members of Skylines Australia NSW, Thank you so much for your kind and generous donation of funds raised at your recent event. This will help us improve welfore for all creatures, great and small. Thank you for your support. Kind Regards, Donna Beasley RSPCA Australia"

yeah good point re pressures - I always run them high when under heavy loads. check the rating on the actual tyres first but generally 35ish on the car and 35-40 on the trailer. btw also make 100% sure you haev a spare for the trailer, and it is in useable condition. and that you have a wheelbrace and jack that can change the tyre (often the jack won't go high enough). I've been very careful with this the day I had to drive a car trailer home on 3 wheels

as the 80s band said....wet wet wet! but lets remember that they changed the motor at least every weekend

not really...it just proves you should not drive faster than your ability on the street lots of people using chinese arms on their cars, as stated above the main issue is the cheap rod ends flog out pretty quick and you end up with a noisey clunky rear end that moves around randomly. still you could buy 5 sets of just jap arms before it became more expensive than cusco or similar

well I think 200-220 is about right for a standard gtr with standard turbs. ash's example had aftermarket turbos is it is not relevent to the discussion. a little bit of realism is a good idea, everyone reading this thread will think every stock gtr makes 250kw when 99% of them make 20% less than that. and the 1% that are making 250 are either bullshit, not standard ecus, not standard boost or not standard turbos.

Good driving there Russ, looks a little narrow for a big r35 boat how many runs up the hill and how long was it? Sarah did very well, nice and clear, and most importantly ready to admit when she was off notes temporarily. Not sure that she will be rushing back into that seat if she gets sick though....

oh nasty!

yeah your main issue will be stopping every 250klm for another tank of fuel. and once you leave the coast/main roads you will be unlikely to find it. so take as many jerry cans as you can get your hands on. and if you have to run 95 or 91 just use partial throtle to keep if off the aggresive parts of the timing map. and if the boost is adjustable turn it down as far as you can. don't worry about the actual towing - other than the fact the hire trailer is 90% likely to be bent and therefore will sway there is nothing to worry about. almost all hire trailers run mechanical brakes but if you have an electric controller and can get an electric trailer it will be much better (you can normally trigger trailer brakes in-cabin to stop a sway). generally swaying starts at a certain, predictable speed if it is going to happen so if it sways at 105 just stick to 100 and tough it out.

I think I mentioned the other week - this is a f**king great car. I love the attitude of a company that thinks their v8 doesn't make enough power so they chuck 2 turbs on it. the later (boring) one is all ferrari driveline, this one is brilliant. and gorgeous interior too. might break down heaps, but at least it will look great on the tow truck

wtf? this has been bugging me for 2 weeks. wasn't the metric system based on the properties of water, and in this case that 1kg = 1lt? do you mean sea water, tap water or some other wierd water? or actual pure water and they just f**ked up?

haha going to be hard to sneak twin high mounts past the scruitineers. btw where is my 4.4 front diff bitch?

motorsport is easy. just choose the right parents (ie enough money to pay your way throught the first 5-10 years). sorry to say but the best drivers (ie most talented ones) are no-where near the top race categories internationally. they are working at maccas or something. you need money to race cars no matter how you do it. I am lucky enough to earn enough to race sometimes, and due to sticking with it over the years I get about 20% of my total costs paid by various businesses (almost always in the form of discounts, not cash payments). I'm sure every single person on SAU pays between 80-100% of their total racing budget. having said all that...you can still race without spending too much. you just need to stay within your budget and not do anything silly like borrow money to race. the best thing you can do is get together with some mates and work together to keep costs down and learn. pick easy stuff like improved production (cheapest is to buy a pre-bult car) and supersprints/hillclimbs. but don't kid yourself. even at a state level, buying a race winning car will cost $50k-200k. tyres will be $2k a set, and you need new ones every single round if you want to win. entry fee for a state round is $500 + accomodation/crew/food/fuel. national rounds budget $2-5k each round + transport.

yeah about there, that is generally 1lt more. even more important is to put in good quality brake fluid like motul rbf600. totally bleed the old stuff out until you see the new stuff running through (careful not to run it dry while doing this) check all fluid levels (might take all day, gtrs have a crazy number of fluids). since its hot make sure you have bleed the coolant properly. if you are going to do more track days, consider adding an oil cooler. if not keep it to 3-5 laps flat out, or 5-8 laps at 80% (which is all most people manage on their first track days)

I'm 100% with Roy. pound for pound there is nothing as valuable in tarmac rally than ABS. In fact I'd rather remove the turbo first to save weight. You just *cannot* get every stop perfect in unknown conditions or unknown tarmac in unknown weather conditions with changing car weight, tyre grip, surface and even driver attention on a long day. Even if you are a champion and only need in 1 time in 100 it will still be worth the trouble. save potato farmer's fences. vote 1 ABS.

but seriously....change it before the track day, and after if the oil got hot. otherwise like roy said run it for ages on the street. mine is track only so I change it every 3-4 days, which is normally 2-3 race meets.

I change my oil every motor.

my stag is finally going to return for this. has had a few changes since it last hit the road. but even then I'd really love to see more stageas there. we will organise for them to all be parked together, from memory last time we had about 10? And a great time to look/talk about other cars and what has worked (and what hasn't). your car doesn't have to be special though, its just about taking part BTW a couple of the guys above - I haven't got forms from you.....please send them in before so we can plan properly.

definately don't race something nice. buy something cheap (even if its a damaged version of the model you have) to race instead. it physically hurts to see what racing and rallying do to a car you love. and you really need to strip whatever it is first anyway, so repairs at the sametime are cheap and simple I bought my car as a shitter 7 years ago to race, and even now it still hurts that I need to chuck the shell away and get a new one - too much damage to the chasis/body itself, bodywork, mounting points and chassis rails to stick with it for more than a couple of years more.

bump it has to go i think the issue is most of you kids were too young to watch or read IT when you were young enough to be terrorised by it. i said it a lot

aren't we trying to get a dyno for the show n shine? kill 2 birds with 1 stone

RIP Gary Tierney (driver) and David Carra (Nav) hit a tree this afternoon during the classic adelaide rally. Kel knew the guys and I guess a few others on here would too http://www.cams.com.au/Media/News/2009/Sta...20Adelaide.aspx CAMS has received confirmation that the driver and co-driver of a car competing in the Classic Adelaide rally have been killed in a crash this afternoon. The crash happened around 3.30 pm on the 7.24 kilometre Special Stage 6, called Kersbrook Reverse, on Norsworthy Road, Forreston. An emergency medical vehicle stationed at the start of the stage attended the crash. The stage was stopped immediately and following cars diverted to the next stage. The South Australia Police Major Crash Unit is attending the scene and the road will remain closed until further notice. CAMS as the national sporting authority will conduct a full incident investigation in partnership with South Australian Police and event organisers, and have deployed experts to assist in the investigation. CAMS will also offer welfare and counselling support to the families, friends and Classic Adelaide participants CAMS President Andrew Papadopoulos extended his deepest condolences. "CAMS is extremely saddened by the incident and the loss of two of its valued members. Our thoughts and sympathy go out to their family and friends in this difficult time. "We also acknowledge the efforts of the volunteer officials who attended the scene and managed the event under sensitive circumstances." http://www.news.com.au/adelaidenow/story/0...5006301,00.html http://aussieexotics.com/2009/11/19/classi...double-fatality

haha watch out noel he pedals the wiggles car pretty hard around there.