Duncan

you mean front upper arm right? because rear is the same design and therefore interchangeable for upper arms. at the front the 33/34 design is heaps better - but personally if I was going to go to the trouble of custom mountings for the arms, I would probably just go to a blank sheet design anyway - a nicely space triangluar wishbone like the lower end has. I know of at least 2 cars that have put full custom suspension in the front, Mark Berry's 34 and Brad (Risking)'s 32.

well..I've broken a transfer case chain too, but I've never heard of anyone else doing it. In my case the xfer case had just been rebuilt, took it racing at targa and the 4wd slowly failed until the chain broke/smashed the box selector so I had to retire. I assume that the clearences in the rbuild were incorrect causing some sort of bearing to fail and seizing the FWD portion of it, which in turn broke the chain next time I launched. There are a couple of places around who can rebuild them, but I just chose to get a seoncd hand one for about $400 and not touch it, has been running fine for 2 years of racing since

these are very old style turbos....I wouldn't buy them. get proper modern ball bearing, water cooled turbos instead unless you really need to do it cheap. They will make boost about 1000rpm later than the equivalent current garrets like -5.

haha omg Neil is famous! thanks Graham....looking forward to it. for my part I'll bring: Gran Turismo 5 prologue supercar challenge superstar racing v8 juiced 2 - hot import nights need for speed pro street midnight club los angeles motorstorm and beer. and a race car.

umm yeah don't want to sleep outside! I'm hoping Kel has this under control!

haha good bump! Neil, Mel, Kel and I are all in, and hopefully staying at your party house

its might still be 32 gtr, there are only 3 lines from it (2x front, 1x rear). but ultimately there is nothing special it is just a master cylinder with a given diameter (11/16th from memory but you could confirm with a search in this section). Are there any markings on it, I can check part numbers if required. not sure about other components I have never got around to removing the whole system at one time. the rear certainly has some mounting blocks but afaik it does not include proportioning valves. if you are doing a custom setup (sounds very custom to me), I would use the master cylinder you have (assuming it is big enough for the caliper pistons you have), the booster you have, and an adjustable proportioning valve in the rear circuit to deal with any bias problem that turns up

very interesting solution. I've been having trouble with the excessive oil pressure from the nitto pump pushing past the seals a bit, a pressure releif is a better idea than a restrictor

Thanks Ian, got mine today....heaps of great pics!

like i said if it moves out of gear but not in....you most likely have a seized motor. try and turn the balancer with a big breaker bar when out of gear

yeah sounds a lot like something locked up. if it doesn't move in gear it could be diff, gearbox or motor. if it doesn't move when out of gear it is diff or gearbox. so take it out of gear, put a big socket and breaker bar on the harmonic balancer bolt and see if it turns. or probably just look under the car and see where the oil came out :| i am not sure that the council will pay for dead motor if you kept driving knowing/suspecting something is wrong.

please get your entries in as soon as you can guys, it will make it much easier for the organisers (volunteers) to track entries and plan the day. we will confirm all received entries every now and then as we get closer to the date

pretty sure I paid 250 but that might have been a special price. either way I use the reconditioned rack on the race car and it works perfectly. no leaks/groans/problems

I got mine done at Sydney Driveshafts in Kings park. Came back with all new seals and black paint. Can't remember the price but it works fine

haha +1 that is committment A+++! hope we didn't slow up the first group too much, the super march rubs tyres on hard lock so we had to take the "slow in, fast out" line a lot. Hopefully the pace was still OK through the twisties! Agro....you reckon you had troubles staying ahead up hill...try it with 0.9l next time! lol pretty much like Kel (on the way home at least...on the way up she was calling the corners for me )

amazing turnout...this was the first 1/3 of the cruise filling the carpark at the halfway house.... then we had to scramble when the 2nd 1/3 of the cruise arrived...

511.20 raised for RSPCA today, thanks everyone!

omg its the garlic bread scammer!

btw Dave the gate sounded great up through the cuttings

about 70 cars from Kel's count....I'm sure someone can post a photo from the park at the end there were cars everywhere. thanks everyone for keeping it sensible, afaik the singleton hwy patrol made no money from us today RSPCA on the other hand did, at least $600. And some great committment from the travellers today....I thought the coasties and gong-ers had done well. Then I met the guys from Newcastle...Canberra....and the winners up from Wagga Wagga for the cruise

haha I think taking spare is a good idea....no e85 in singo (98 only just arrived!)

see y'all there!

well....since this is in a discussion forum and is therefore not just an ad..... I totally disagree with the detailed research behind your statement and the conclusion you draw. Yes I have seen some rims break at race tracks over the years, but they have almost always been of an obviously compromised design (eg very thin spoke and big offset). The rim in the photo above is screwed. I am 99% sure that the tyre lost it's seal and deflated when the accident happened if it really was 160klm/h, and I guarantee the control arms were bent or broken preventing the car from driving off anyway. The rims on this car are a cast wheel in a similar style to ray's: http://www.hgeconsulting.com.au/targa04.wmv. The rear rim was damaged in the same sort of location as the one above. Yes it cracked not bended, and yes the tyre delated. But obviously the car was not about to drive anywhere after a crash like that. The other 3 rims went onto another 4 years of racing, plus another 2 targa tasmanias without incident. All 3 rims (plus their new mate) then fell down a cliff at Targa 07 rolling 6 time on the way down. Although most of the control arms were bent all 4 wheels survived. I have run the same style of cast rim on my race car for 5 years (and bought them second hand so god knows what had been done to them before I got them). In this time we have had offs from the track, including at 180 in turn 1 at eastern creek, banged wheels with other cars, and had an off at targa at over 140 into the scenery when the castor rod broke. These cast wheels did not fail due to any of these incidents and I am still using them today. In my previous racing the whole field of single make cars run local cast rims from "speedy". I never saw a wheel failure on any of them despite extremely hard use over ripple strips, offs, into other cars etc. I did see whole hubs shear off cars (right Mark lol!) but never a wheel failure. I use a set of the same design wheels in a larger size on my race car, and the BSM GTR (NSW Production car champs, NSW IPRA champs, Aus IPRA champs) run the same wheels. Finally...bent wheels are a real problem. Once a wheel is bent it should be discarded due to the damage to the strength of the wheel, but an owner might be tempted to just put up with it if they paid $2k a rim instead of $1k a set. Cast rims are not dangerous, and forged rims are not safe. It comes down to the design of the wheel, and how hard you are going to hit it.

everyone that has them! full tank of fuel too, its a long push!

where are you? I have a set with tops in usual condition for age. I assume you are rebuilding to drag spec?