Duncan

yep, although not deliberately. it is solid mounted at the top no rubber bushes really appreciate the update, thanks Chris. We all hope it turns out OK for him, that was among the nastiest things I've seen at the race track, and is exactly why I always race with plenty of metal around me. haha you were fine.....but i noticed you took some shortcuts only the locals know actually you pedalled it damn well considering the street tyres.

anthony do vdo publish calibration to go with the sender, or is it just an oem replacement?

well...assuming you are going to keep those rims. you need to move the wheel out fromthe hub, so you need spacers. the distance you need to move it depends how bad it rubs on the strut. once you have moved it out far enough to clear the strut you may have rubbing issues on the guard, if so you will need to roll or flare the guard. or if you are happy to compromise you could run a smaller tyre on the rim and run a too much camber so that it tucks inside the guard on bump - but of course this would adversely affect handling and tyre wear 10" rims can fit on the back of a 33 gtst if they have the correct offset, so it's not impossible.

well whoever you bought the car from was somewhere between a super-tight arse and mad. I guess I can live with different tyres front and rear, but different side to side is downright dangerous in my book....you need consistent grip across the axle. and the thing is 3 of the tyres are terrible (nexen, ziex) and the 4th is not too bad. if you want your car to handle well it is worth replacing at least the front 2 tyres. Not sure where you are based as you didn't fill in the profile, but you should be able to get ok to decent tyres at 200-250 a tyre. no point buying one of the best balanced, affordable sports cars around and then trying to drive on shit like that. You might as well have bought a camry. as for tyre pressures, 50 would be a max level, not recommended. I would normally suggest 32-38 (cold) pressure front and rear - lower for comfort and higher for handling. And keep them within 1-2psi front to rear as well so the handling is consistent

hey i just bought a micra/march. I reckon they are pretty cool.

good work Noddy (or Sara probably!), a bit of time with video editing and sound really shows up stuff like my video. was that your first time around OP? You are going pretty damn well, excellent mid corner speed so you are making the most of what the car has. Now all you need is 400kw like all the talkers in the forced induction section.

if you want something that is already built (or close enough), you should probably post up in the motorsport section about what you want. We have active members there who are rallying all over Aus, they are bound to know a couple of different cars that are FS

some laps around Oran Park South from the weekend

haha good work! so it really does chirp second? have the boys made any changes to it since it ran at EC?

fark even toulia is alive in this thread! I'm pretty sure my first track day was with Honda Car Club at Wakie in 2001....their (ex-)famous GOHCCDTD. Pretty sure I met Pete there he was the only other skyline guy there. Team trackday were great days....bloody hell they used to be cheap before insurance went crazy...and no problems with passengers back then either. Bottom line is....even stock, skylines are one of *the* best track cars around. And there is not much more fun in life than doing laps of a race track. If you haven't given it a go, have a chat to some of the people in here, and come along some time. It looks pretty frightening from the outside, but give it a go....you will love it.

thanks guys I've got Leon to install for me on friday. btw thanks for mentioning quiktrack chris but i've been through that game before......I am very much converted to personally monitored tracking even if it is less accurate for location.

how'd it run on sunday Dave? Looks like there's still a fair bit of water in the catch can from where you were parking was a hell of a day to be running this much power through rwd

indeed it can be. they snap off at the threaded section. pretty straightforward....pull is smoother, push clamps better.

drop mountainrunner a pm. he has sourced these for his data loggers at a good price.

oh god hide the rags before pete arrives!

motorsport connections in seven hills have them (just behind hungrys on abbot rd). no doubt there are cheaper locations

I dont know why united E10 is 95....but I don't complain. the stuff is dirt cheap, even cheaper than their straight unleaded (91)

btw stu you need to get a timer in the car, I reckon you were getting around there in a pretty decent time...

done! hahaha surely you knew all racers are cheap bludgers always looking for freebies!

yeah thats why we're running a flux capacitor in the new car. bloody car has always run hot even with all the changes over the years (overdriven water pump, big radiator etc) but runs about 10o cooler with water than coolant

(hey matt don't give it away, I don't want John to have a way to get out of future warranty claims ) yeah water temp got to 110 again...just goes to show I need to run the distilled water and redline water wetter any time I want to push it hard. no big deal. No problems with oil temp because the gauge doesn't work Neil...I like the bit in your vid where I chop you , about 7.40 if I remember correctly But you really need some decent tyres those ones are shithouse. I couldn't beleive how quickly it was going from understeer to oversteer to understeer again. Lets see if the result is different at phillip island when I'm on old tyres and you're on new tyres

and that is where the whole issue gets complex. unless they done the whole build on a car, how can you prove what a tuner did caused a problem? how many businesses could afford to run a car up on a dyno (say $50) with the risk of a $5,000 rebuild if something goes wrong....even if 1 car in 100 goes wrong on those odds they would not make a cent....and I guess it happens more often than 1 in 100... all you can do is go somewhere well recommended - don't worry about 1 or 2 people who've had a problem because every workshop has had issues at sometimes - what you need is a feeling that they are genuine and will show due care.

well I'm not so sure about the front, but at the rear it is very easy to get way too much camber just by lowering the springs....as you go lower you gain camber. Not so much of a problem at the front depending on how much camber you need. How much do they say 5mm changes it by? I lengthened my front lower control arms by 2cm and gained about 2o of camber

n1 was the sneaky race homologated model that nissan built on top of r32 vspec 1 and vspec 2. it was basically the same except for larger turbos (really crap by modern standards, but a fair bit bigger than the base model had). few other changes like the body kit (nostrils in the bonnet, side skirts and rear lip under the spoiler), no rear wiper, no air con, no abs. 33 and 34 also had n1 and they got progressively sneakier

its true pete...i survived a whole day with more than enough oil pressure...thanks John and Nitto! here's the quick laps from the afternoon session at 18psi and then 12psi, about 11 laps in 10 min