Duncan

Yeah I'm selling that shortly (once I get it boxed for postage). I've had it in the stagea for about 15 years but since I recently moved to Android/Realdash form the Link via CAN it is not needed any more I think it is pretty impressive considering mid 90s electronics. It taps into ecu wires for RPM, speed, injector duty etc then displays values based on DIP switches. I had it set up for RB but it covers about 20 models from the era.

lol, I've snapped a cam, but it did take a special oil problem (workshop removed the strainer on the oil pump AND broke the head off an internal bolt overtightening it, you'd never guess where it ended up)

well there you go. I always thought the throttle was an on/off switch

S1 stagea has the larger bolt holes in the upright, so that should be fine. Other than potential bolt hole stuff and triming dust backing plate, I understood all S and R (and z32) are bolt on/interchangeable. It's only when they went z33 onwards that the offset was changed so that needs a specific bracket for Z33+ on R.

....I understand the upsides, but most people would consider waiting 12 minutes to drive the car after starting it to be a drawback for daily driving....

So if PFC is set to idle at say 900, and the engine is running higher than that, the ECU will be trying to bring revs down, but it only controls the fuel and spark timing. Adjust the screw on the IACV clockwise until the revs drop to the ECU target, which reduces the air coming in. Once that is set properly the idle should settle OK, unless there is another air leak or other problem

"Worth it" depends what you want from the car....if you love the car and want to keep it long term it is probably a good option. If you just want to get to Woolies faster, you would be better buying something more modern. It would probably cost a few thousand, even if you find second hand factory turbo parts. You need Exhaust manifold Turbo Water and oil lines for the turbo (and places to tap them into the existing systems) Dump pipe to suit (often custom) Exhaust to suit Intercooler in intake New ECU and tune Larger injectors Boost control Depending on power goal - new clutch or auto trans upgrade probably plenty of other things I haven't thought of, but that would be a few thousand to start.

I saw your car's country cousin yesterday Not only did it have the burnout rims on, but the rears were indeed delaminated

hmm pic previews still not working

poor old girl picked the wrong night to sleep outside the other day...

only good new for us from that pic, we are on the upper lachlan side of the border. maybe not so great for Mark's favourite child

I just wanted to share this effort from Goulburn Mulwaree council Full marks for resealing the road. Not so much for attention to detail.

yeah that would be hard to ignore. time to take the motor out....

Now that is sorted I can decide between trying to get the Fuga hybrid started (EV system error) or work out why the LHD swapped Titan is stuck on full hot for the cabin heater. I suspect neither are simple either.

right-o, well happily that problem with starting/running is solved. It was indeed a MAP sensor issue of some sort. I had got to the point of total desperation where I actually opened the manual. Right there on p 13 under "MAP Sensor Calibration" it stated there is an onboard barometric absolute pressure sensor (BAP) and that with the key on and engine not running that MAP and BAP should be the same. And yet... MAP and BAP are totally different. In fact, when I tried to calibrate the MAP sensor through the menu, it said: Which is actually a good thing, because had I been able to calibrate the dodgy sensor I might have stopped looking there and just blown up the engine instead. It's not yet clear if it was wiring, boost source or sensor, but when I physically moved the MAP sensor it started working properly, and the car is running like nothing was ever wrong. It is running the Link 4 bar sensor so I've grabbed a spare and will swap it in if the problem recurs.

Plus, if you have that much apart, you might as well clean it all and put new bearings in too. but, why do you think it needs new rings?

My current theory is that I have a failing or mis calibrated onboard MAP sensor as the ECU switches between running perfectly and running like a bastard for no obvious reason other than the MAP being much lower when it does not idle (eg -9 psi vs -4 psi MAP) So, I googled "normal MAP at idle". Congrats to the AI troll factory for getting this word soup so far up the google results, it is definitely worth a read if you are interested in vacuum pressure and potential stroke causes in one handy location - https://www.cushyfamily.com/what-should-map-sensor-read-at-idle/

from a dealer..... I think that sounds dodgy as f**k

Is the car automatic?

wow that location is a gold mine.

Keep in mind that the indicator being red isn't a guarantee the unit is not working (and vice versa, an unbroken indicator doesn't mean a working unit). It is just a g sensitive tag, the unit itself is independent and may still be fine.

well, that is one reason but if a vehicle is not registered recently, and is not a log booked race car, it is pretty easy to end up with a vehicle without papers; I have a tractor and a paddock basher like that. best you can do to cover yourself there is get the current owner to provide the blue slip (includes identity check) and a written receipt as part of the sale. the blue slip is valid for a 3 months (I think, please check!)

yeah that's how it looks to me, single part with 2 nozzles and a full width mounting (which means shipping will be expensive). The cima ones were little pieces about $20ea so not a hard investment decision

Right here: https://www.amayama.com/en/catalogs/nissan?_s=h Enter your VIN and head to the illustration with the washer nozzles that 00.37_ posted

OP should check with their actual VIN before ordering, there are sometimes variations within series.