Duncan

lol personally I don't get the concept of the jap stroker cranks, you are paying literally 3x as much as something based on an easily available local product. but hey if you've got the cash to spend on an inferior solution.....go for it!

aint that the truth. understeer and more understeer is all I've ever had oversteer is in there somewhere but requires real abuse to make it happen.....heavy foot, deliberate steering input, locking rear brakes or rear toe out

spot on. I don't buy this story that n1 pumps are death traps. I reckon people are just going to the broken pump and not the actual cause of the failure (ie what went through it and killed it). I've had an n1 pump break but I'm sure it was a symptom not the problem. I guess the splined gear pumps may solve the symptom (much more tolerant to crap in the oil)....but if there is something wrong in the motor it will just move to the next point of failure instead of the oil pump, probably a big end bearing BTW I also ran a heap of bearing through a nitto pump lately. I can't confirm how they last in race use, but this pump has been through 2 major bearing failures and is still working fine.

omgomgomg I heard we have a date as well as a location now!

can't answer the second....but I have reuused my metal intake and zorst gaskets about 50 times with no problems

2 quick notes. 1/ offset bushes to deal with the different cradle mounting points are available - I got min in ally from UAS. 2/ you can use the 33 gtr diff centre with your standard diff housing. you keep the stagea ratio but gain a mechanic centreq

Yes there is a breather for both gearbox and xfer case. Normally it is bolted to the top bellhousing bolt just above the starter motor, so it is possible something was knocked then the starter went in. but generally you would not expect the xfer case to breathe much, whether or not the breather is attached correctly.

stu....you really need to get a proper sliding seat rail in...something like the bride setup. I don't want to have to twist myself into a pretzel like I had to in brad's car...

lol mebbe. found out today the cam in my newly sealed motor has a crack on the end of the intake cam I better meet you at phillip island for the nats super sprint bitch

great footage/production there, since so many cars have cameras these day I'm surprised more people haven't done this sort of video. good work I notice the mighty rb20 doesn't make enough power to register lateral g under acceleration. I bet the camera is worth more than the car too.

not that simple pete, and probably not the right thread. gtst and gtr are in different categories in aasa regs. gtst has more freedoms. as of about 2 weeks ago I could not find the current AASA tarmac rally regs anywhere on the web (i was checking for buller sprint). for gtr it is basically ecu and suspension free. zorst 3". boost free. standard motor (no deep sump, no cams, std turbo but may be n1 spec).

crappy falcodore is the only thing under 5k. keep 1k aside for the coolers/service/repairs. if you can stretch to 10K a w34 stagea is the go. thats what I use

I think our fully caged race car with straight thru zorst should be able to fill the role. while he gets his head around "rally rego" cars not having to meet ADRs everyone else can sneak past

sif! since they have been taken over by suncorp they do everything they can not to pay legit claims, let alone Ben's plowing practice

sure is! 02 8915 1645

I'd love to see some form of buyer protection implemented here. Do you have constructive suggestions on how or just compliants that it does not exist? Every mod and admin on this site is a volunteer, and while Christian does charge traders it only covers the hosting costs - this is a community site not a commercial one. In fact I think if it came to it Christrian would rather close for sale and trading sections than change the focus of this site from community to a commercial operation. So maybe think of the FS sections here as a way to buy and sell specific things to a like minded community, instead of a way to make money or get huge bargains. The better the deal is, the less likely it is to be legit. Get people you know in other locations to pick up/inspect things first if they are expensive. Having said that, I've never lost anything trading through this site. I'm sure part of the reason for that is I only tend to buy from people I know are active users/posters on here. The mods and admins here actively maintain a "known bad traders" list who are banned from here, and we also review all members and posts to watch out for the banned traders joining under different names etc. Unfortunately I don't know a way to predict who will be a bad trader so it takes a report from someone who is affected to start that process. Finally, assuming both the seller and they buyer are in Aus, you can (and always should) report the matter to the police for investigation. If someone steals from you do you just let it go and tell no-one? Or just complain on the internet? Once there is a police report we have admins who co-operate with the investigations by providing alll available information about the person in question....and you'd be surprised how often this results in a the person being caught.

well in my case the only thing you are missing is the CAMS 3D regulations. to run a 4wd sports sedan you must retain the original block. so my interest is in how I can cheaply increase capacity while retaining the standard block (by standard block they mean standard mains location, standard deck height, thats about it I think). but this is only relevent to about 2-5 cars in this country. and I suppose most 4wd skylines will ignore this rule. For most people, the issue is a mistaken beleif that rb30 is somehow intrinsically worse than an rb26 (probably because it was in the dodgy vl commodore not the might skyline gtr). In particular you "can't rev it as high". Personally I think that is pretty irrelevent compared to the available capacity and better rod/stroke ratio which means you would expect to make the same power with 20-30% less "stress" on the motor.

thanks for the update! 2 questions... 1 is the refueling in the dummy grid just from a churn while the clock is running? 2 what price to rent a daewoo for the day?

thanks Paul we were having the same argument elsewhere lately. for what it is worth CAMS say 0.8bar is stock for a GTR too. I "heard" that the n1 models ran 1 bar base boost, would love to know if anyone has a nissan document proving it...would be a very happy day for me. Brandon the actuators open at about 0.8 bar with the restrictor in the lines and about 1bar with the restrictor out. 0.6 bar says you had a blockage in the air line, or dodgy actuator/s

what, you mean there's no potato fields up there?

I can't see a car in those pics?

yeah it was a good read. race magazine deserves support, I'd hate to see it die while autosalon magazine survives

yep should be OK. run heaps of castor 5-7o. As you lower the ride height on the coilovers you will get more camber so to some extent you can use that. but generally you the ride height people use (355mm front to middle of wheel, 345mm rear to middle of wheel) means you have too much camber not too little. also since you have coilovers it is worth getting the car corner weighted and get the ride heights set properly then.

Well presumably it is eligible for category 2 / best bet would be production sports cars. their idea of "production" is a lot more liberal than touring cars too.

I run the just jap ones in the race car and have never had a problem