Duncan

Got a pic? If you mean the washer, I put the larger one in as it has a larger face to hold against, and the smaller one out as it only has a nut on it

That may not be so tricky with a changeover relay (again, with LED indicator only to reduce load on existing headlight + source) 30 to indicator + globe side 86 and 87 to headlight parker + 87a to original indicator + chassis side 85 to chassis/earth repeat on each corner, sorted, no diode required

wow that is some seriously JDM original credibility there!

Yeah it will surely need a diode to stop the headlight turning on when the indicator does, I'm pretty sure all it would need is a wire from the headlight parker wire (via a diode) to the indicator 12v. Assuming you also convert to LED that is....I'm not sure if the standard wiring will take the load of the extra indicator globes if they are incandescent

Post up or shoot me a list of anything you need (other than R34 specific), I've been meaning to move on some spares

Yeah they seemed surprised I'd like to know more than "The refund relates to an issue we identified where the way we calculated your premium was different to the information we provided you. "

Well, I guess that explains the Lumley thing. I got an email the other day purporting to be from Lumley that they had identified an error (no details) and would be providing a refund (including interest)....of $9.4k. Ignored it as obvious spam until the refund actually turned up in my account today. I know I pay a lot per month over the cars and have been with them for 10 years.....but still.....if you really make a mistake that big it might be worth a 2 minute call. ......off to buy some more mods....

hey OP can you remind me what the actual question was, I got sidetracked at V12. Do you have an turbo oil return leak and an unidentified coolant leak? The factory oil returns are terrible design; short, rubber and expensive to replace. They are very common to fail and a pain to replace because they are so short. Still, they are available new if you want to replace both last time I checked. For the coolant leak, any competent mechanic should be able to do a pressure test; that should show up where the leak is. It is almost certainly one of the billion 30 year old rubber lines which are now brittle as hell, you engine will be fine.

keep an extinguisher nearby? or even better, take it out of the car to charge?

Bulk charging can be a high voltage but I would have though 14.x not 15.x What battery type?

Yeah agreed.....sunlight and heat would be the biggest risks.

that is still a future, potential state.....

Probably OK if you can do it yourself, our local Auto Elec couldn't get a kit for it so couldn't be bothered fixing....

I am very confident every insurer outsources their Assessing to people who get paid a bonus for the $$$ in reduction in claims they assess, so they are deliberately incentivised to screw customers

sadly V37 skyline has that "feature" too when you select sport or sport+. Can't hear it through a helmet though

I don't facebook, but if you are coming south on a weekend and post up here.....we'll likely be there.

Where things are NLA new, you can always try Yahoo Auction JP. I bought 2 C34 stagea compressors and the first one I fitted worked OK, but feels like a real lottery. Any future failure I would modernise with the Frenchy's kit or similar for sure.

You need to buy a Saab Matt, ours had a button that turned all the dash lights off. Any decent aftermarket dash has sufficient brightness control and a headlight input for day/night settings. None of which probably helps OP

Are you going for a "period correct" build, I haven't seen them in a really long time..... I'd check the japanese brands in the hope they have a higher quality / better match to factory; if ebay has some I'd expect them to be pretty crap

Good news, we now know why this is a giant leap forward for the environment "The box takes up less space in landfill than traditional packaging". https://www.instagram.com/p/DHW77Eit_p6/ Thank f**k, humanity is saved.

The tension is automatic....if you follow the installation instructions Self adjusting tensioners are used when the chain/belt is expected to stretch during it's service life, but the downside is the tensioner itself can fail and cause a problem, while the RB system is locked once it is installed and doesn't have that risk

This is the clearest explanation out of those: Page 77: Turn the crankshaft clockwise two full rotations with the tensioner pulley installation bolt in a loose condition. Insert a wrench into the tensioner pulley hexagonal hole to fix the tensioner pulley in place, then tighten the installation bolts. Tightening torque: 43–58 N·m (4.4–5.9 kg·m). The timing belt tension should be at the correct tension. Basically you turn the engine with the tensioner bolt loose, then use the allen key to hold it while you torque it up. And yes after that a good guide is being able to twist it 90o in one of the long free lengths of the belt

good choice....I have a set of those and use them all the time including on this job. Plus, no-one wants a damaged nipple

1. No, as you say you can remove the connectors and fuel lines. Before you do make sure you remove fuel pump fuse and crank the starter a few times to release pressure, and also loosen the fuel cap (just in case the tank is slightly pressurised) as it will pump out the lines otherwise 2. Not necessary but you are right, if it is the factory pump it is at risk of failing after 25 years....Changing it is not hard but potentially not trivial as you have to make sure you have the right pickup/sock for the pump to suit the tank, need to make wiring connections (crimped butt connectors would be fine) and have to mount/adapt the new pump in the right place in the cradle. Not impossible but don't start the job if you aren't confident. Also, the plastic nut that holds that seal in place can be really hard to remove. If you don't have a fuel nut removal tool it generally requires a big screwdriver or similar to bash the ring around a few times before you can get it by hand. Also the fuel lines can be very sticky on the tank lid fittings, hose removal pliers can help or if not twist the hose on the fitting (eg with linesperson's pliers) to break the seal before you try and remove it. Finally, mark the feed and return hoses so you don't put them on backwards and seal them with an m8 bolt to stop crap getting into the lines while working. Add a little grease in the threads of the plastic lid when you go to do it back up as a gift to your future self, and make sure you put it on evenly/not cross threaded. Having said all that, most likely the lid just needs to be either tightened or removed and put back on without being cross threaded...the seal itself is usually pretty good.

I wouldn't go near them, they are rubber seals for a reason. Just chuck new cam cover seals, half moons and the spacers for the screws every decade or two. I add a really thin layer of silicone too and it seems to hold together OK