Duncan

yeah that would cause it. you can get ammonia based stuff to put in the washer bottle to break that stuff down, but it itself can cake and block the nozzles if you don't use them regularly

I had trouble with the ones in my F50 cima, had to replace them every 50,000klm or so because they blocked and were not a simple shape to unblock. Got them brand new from nissan, bought like 6 of them so I had spares for next time.

I've never done an interstate buy, but to add to checking for defects like murray said, also make sure it is not on the stat write off register. The main check is the blue slip, the shop does the identity check on the car at that point (checks engine number and chassis number(s) with RTA), and they also have to be happy to say any mods are safe (which most shops would not without an engineer taking responsibility for it)

Re fitment, I have R34 gtr wheels on mine all round, they are perfect at the front and stick out approx 1.27cm at the rear (which I just live with, the wheels tuck in under compression). Funnily enough though, if they are factory wheels they are probably worth keeping in the shed so you can put them back on when these are billion dollar classic cars

Nice, you probably won't come across too many others at the local Woolies. Unfortunately the first thing you should know, is that while they have pretty much the same potential as any r chassis skyline, they are a real slug standard.

Yeah it will be better warm as the pistons expand but 5 looks f**ked

The other thing I did some work on was the Dayz side skirts. They make the car look much nicer (my opinion) than without in a 90s kind of way, but they are held on with a crappy combination of bent sheet metal brackets and plastic clips. Over the years anything that hits them (plus time) causes the clips to break and they don't sit properly. Many years ago someone found and posted up the part number for the factory clips and I should have got them at the time, they are no longer available. Anyway, I removed and straightened the brackets as best I could, tightened the self tappers that unknown animals had used in a few places to hold it back on, and replaced all the broken factory clips with standard trim clips (got these aftermarket from here https://www.carpartsclipsandfasteners.com.au/product_info.php/nissan-infiniti-door-card-trim-clips-p-525) They were very tight in the thick plastic of the side skirt and also in the hole in the car, but they are holding OK for now....will see how they go over time with rough roads etc Neil suggested more than once that I should use wing nuts on the GTR engine mounts for ease of replacing blown engines, but I never expected to come across a wing nut from the nissan factory. Well, there they are, 2 wing nuts are used inside the front guard to mount the front of the side skirts Incidentally, I know my car is high klm and does a lot of off road work, but please all Stagea owners check inside the bottom of your front guards for build up of crap. You can kind of see in the pic that the rear edge of the front guard is not sealed at the door (pic was taken from the wheel arch where there is a plastic cover normally). This is what I removed from one side of my car (other side was similar)

So, since I still haven't found a smoking gun for the stalling I did a more complete boost leak test. I have one of these Raceworks boost leak testers (incidentally, if they are going to copy our race team's name they could at least give me freebies). I put it into the cooler piping at the turbo outlet Blocking off the other end not so simple. I've still go the the 64mm intake piping from the first time the front mount was installed (which might be a little small for the current setup), and I had an 64-50mm silicone reducer and a 50mm rubber cap, so I used those with some spare GTR BOV return piping to block off the cooler piping just before the throttle. I also had to block off the hose from the intake to the AAC. Ran it up to 15psi with a tyre inflator (the boost tester has a Schrader valve which is good for regulating test pressure) and it immediately started leaking back down. checked all the joints with soapy water and I found a very obvious and pretty large leak https://www.hgeconsulting.com.au/boost-leak4.mp4 When I turned the clamp on the pipe the leak followed it so I replaced the clamp. Incidentally, these T style clamps are basically overpriced junk; just use a good quality 8mm hose clamp up against the lip at the end of the intake pipe . Later inspection showed the clamp was bent under the screw iteself, no wonder it was leaking and probably had been since the day it was first installed There was another, smaller leak from the intake air temp sensor, I'm pretending that doesn't exist for now https://www.hgeconsulting.com.au/boost-leak5.mp4 After fixing that the car was idling properly for a while, but they seemed pretty minor leaks to me and the car is running a MAP not AFM so I expect it to tolerate intake leaks to some extent. I'll take it for a proper drive but no reason to think the underlying issue is fixed.

Great to hear that is back together and being enjoyed. So is the difference that you removed the original clutch kit and installed a new one? Looks like the new kit had a different height with the flywheel/pressure plate stack and came with a different throw out bearing?

Could be easy....is the fog light switch on (and if not, try disconnecting it too), I think the R32 treats them as headlights on

When you say ACC is on, what exactly still has power? Is it just the radio, because that is usually battery powered with an ACC signal to turn on

3000hp out of an RB8.7 is pretty impressive

Turns out there are 2 different sized shifter balls, and therefore 2 different size shifter bushes - noting they might both have the same outer diameter where they go into the gearbox Looks like R32 sedan is the smaller shifter ball

I was assuming you have 1 piece units that plug into the factory loom. If you plug that in and it blows the fuse there is a short inside the unit. Assuming it's new, you either get your money back or replace it. When you put an LED Into a standard globe holder, the polarity does matter. If you get it wrong the globe doesnt work and you need to take it out and put it in the other way around. If it does work you got it right. Neither way blows the fuse

sounds like they are f**ked, hopefully facebook does refunds

Changing your front and rear brakes is not going to cause you ABS problems What might is if you have air in the lines, because if that air makes it into the tiny sections of the ABS module it is hard to bleed out again. There are 2 bleeders on the ABS unit that you should always bleed (last) when you do the brakes

whoa, who's the new guy? They mention back to back testing on their website but didn't list the actual results

Nicely executed mods to the factory hat there, they should be nice and reliable. You are probably aware, but there are aftermarket hats available these days too for higher flow lines and higher current connectors, eg from https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/collections/fuel-system-kits

Ouch. Good on them for sorting it out, especially since it was 6+ months ago. Every shop makes mistakes, its how they deal with them that makes the difference

No difference in use with "street" pads (ie pads that work from cold). It can be a problem with things like rally use where you might start sub zero but do a 30 min stage flat out so you need to deal with a very wide range of brake temps. Really the only issue with big brakes on the street is they are expensive to buy, might need larger wheels (also expensive) and discs and pads will be more expensive at replacement time too.

Assuming you are using a hoist, that would probably be the quickest way to do the job.

I understand that by looks you just mean larger and new looking, so just grab whatever you can find cheapest in 350mm, any half credible brand will be adequate stopping wise. If you go the evo brembos you probably have to consider the cost of having them stripped, powder coated, rebuilt, re-stickered. Personally I'd stay away from any home made kits as you won't know the quality of the caliper adapters which could be dangerous

Well, full marks to GTSBoy in internet guess troubleshooting then!

No idea if lever is better or worse, I've only every used the push down screw cap ones. I run 1.3 bar cap on the race car and have got >130o coolant without blowing anything, not really recommended as best practice. Of course if you go higher pressure cap it is worth changing all water hoses to silicone and good hose clamps instead of the factory clips

hmmm totally different to gtr, and it looks like there has been a distinct shortage of love there at some stage. From GTSBoy's wiring diagram post Assuming GTST is the same as GTS4, 6 is the earth, 4 and 5 are the power and earth for the fuel pump and either 3 or 2 is the sender signal (the other is the low fuel warning light, from the symbol I assume 3 is the level sender)