Duncan

Umm that's probably just how tax works (you didn't mention value of what you are importing...), but GST and the broker's fee add up I recently imported some expensive bits from US, value A$1,062.43 and paid import costs: GST is 10% obviously, car parts from US were duty free (other than GST) and Other was the broker's %. Direct shipping cost was included in the cost base $1,062.43, not just the parts

Sorry mate, my old eyes need a better pic. Oxidation on aluminium is not an issue in itself.

The pic isn't great, but I think it is the exhaust heat shield with surface rust. That is perfectly normal, it is not painted because it is too close to the exhaust for paint to survive

I urge you not to make any further setup changes until you put some proper tyres on it. There is no point trying to improve on a flawed foundation, you will likely find it handles totally differently (strengths/weaknesses) with new tyres.

Hi mate, glad you are enjoying your time at the track and looking to get your times down. In my experience you will have more fun and way more lap time success changing things in the following order: 1. check wheel alignment 2. r spec tyres on spare set of rims 3. sway bars (stiffer springs are not the best way to reduce roll as they act in all compression conditions not just roll) 4. shocks and springs (lighter than you have) 5. mechanical diff 6. better pads and discs 7. replace sure all bushes, ball joints, rod ends etc 8. more power At the moment it is pretty clear from the video that it understeers mid corner (need more front end grip) and oversteers hugely under power on exit (needs more rear grip). Good tyres will make 200% difference to both of those and you won't really notice the effect of any change until you start with some grip. Yes (comparably) stiff springs can be OK for track only use, as long as you stay off the ripple strips etc because they compromise the amount of time your tyres spend on the ground over bumps.

or, just run it a few minutes, it is self clearencing

Sorry, that makes sense on re-reading, why would you want torque specs for a bolt of the wrong material? It is a weird bolt Cap head with Phillips drive 27mm total length 5mm at 7mm shank for the rubber bush to go through 20mm of M6 thread 2mm of narrower shaft, I guess that is to help with centring

A working auto ECU will run the car fine, I had the auto one in my manual swapped stagea for a while

Good update In that case, you should check the continuity of the TPS wire from the ECU to the ATTESSA unit. If it has high resistance, it is unlikely to be the only wire in that loom with a problem

You I'm not certain about yet, so I've removed the link in the quote you quoted

Oh you tricky bot, got away with it for 12 months! Fixed now, goodbye.

Very very loose as the rubber bush and rubber seals take the pressure, you will need a tiny tiny torque wrench

ahh yes I didn't say that very well. funnily enough, I did purchase the box in the Stagea brand new in a nissan box, although it went straight to Award to get upgraded then into the race car for about 10 years, so it is a long time past it's prime. Back in the day second hand boxes were about 800 and brand new 1500 but the synchro/clips etc upgrades cost 1-2k anyway, so might as well start with a good platform.

Starting in gear won't hurt anything (except your battery, but no big deal). If you run to say 3,000 in first, foot off accelerator, shift to neutral then hold it against second until it goes in, that will confirm you can shift OK (you almost certainly can) If you have a second person, have them clutch in while you watch, make sure the slave cylinder rod moves and actuates the fork. That will tell you if the problem is pedal - master - line - slave, or inside the bellhousing.

hahaha true, they sound like the car is falling apart rattling around how was the wear on the spiggot bush that was not engaging correctly? good choice to fix it but I'm wondering if it would have been OK....

But more importantly, is that a Super Turbo in the background?

either way, ATTESSA will throw a fault if the front and rears are continually turning at different rates

I run a link in my stagea too, it does a good job And, welcome to the slippery slope. If you want to stay in a budget, a highflow in the stock location, with stock intake and routing, nistune, injectors will get to to around that power at about 1/3 of the price.

BTW I get what you mean about how it looks too, I have FFP etc in my stagea, but it's not free and it's probably worse than stock.

Assuming the ECU can control boost, all you need is a MAC valve, wiring and vacuum line plumbing. For ECU, that's kind of like talking religion, politics or whether pineapple belongs on pizza. Anything except the standard, untuned ECU can work, in cost order Nistune + z32 AFM + Boost controller PowerFC + z32 AFM + Boost controller Link, Haltech basic models, they can run MAP and control boost so you just need the MAC valve) + wide band o2 Then a whole world of pain up to Motec Price range for the hardware approx $1k-$5k

Great to hear, particularly for the labour, but just to think of a few other things so you don't get half way and run out of money -Fabricate intake piping from air filter to turbo to intercooler to plenum. Air filter (and potentially box to suit) -Silicone joiners and hose clamps for intake -Highflow turbo *may* need new oil and water lines. -External gate, manifold to suit if not internal gated turbo -Boost control solenoid -Dump pipe, front pipe and exhaust to suit the larger turbo without choking -Injectors to suit the higher power (standard will run out) -Oil breather setup to suit new intake (atmo or plumbed back) -Tuneable ECU for the larger injectors and extra airflow, boost control. Might need to swap to ECU MAP or otherwise a new AFM eg Z32 -Tuning the ECU Also keep in mind that most of this has to happen together, so the car will be undriveable from when you start until that tune is done, and if you run out of budget it will be off the road until it is all done

funnily enough, it's not on the car today, but you'd have to pry it out of my cold dead hands

260ish kw might be possible on a standard location, high flow turbo, that would be a lot cheaper. FYI, High mount turbo, front mount intercooler, forward facing plenum (ECU, injectors etc etc) is a $10-20k job

muahahaha 13 years too late

Just to be clear, was that in your car or is it a sample pic? Looks to me like an injector resistor pack Either way, you need the wiring loom and engine to match, and it sounds like they do (plus, the engine is running OK). Therefore, I would not worry about anything that was in the car for the old engine setup