Duncan

great news and yes, I had a 33 gtst with a standard computer and a pinhole leak in a hose; I didn\'t notice the overheat but it shut down before any damage was done

Thanks for the offer, will do. Injectors are Xspurt 1000

sorry Mark, I lied, it does get cold here. <scottish> just had to walk home, uphill, in the snow </scottish 20230507_173226.mp4 >

But, let's give it a try. This is a shot of a data log of about 15min of trying to find and fix the problem: The car started with throttle around 9min, then suddenly started idling happily at 10:20 until about 16min with no obvious change to anything, other than the MAP went from around 7 to about 5. At that point it idles and runs OK. At 16min I started poking cooler pipes due to suspicion of a leak and it stalled but I'm not concerned about that. This is the target AFR map around idle I was surprised the target for idle is 13.67 not 14.7 and did some testing with the 4 highlighted cells. When it was running it made no real difference between the original and my change, not sure why it was set that way by the shop; I'll ask sometime but I don't think that is the issue The other thing I fiddled was that it would not start or idle on the original fuel map, but when I tripled the fuel as a test at lower MAP levels it started and ran fine: So, the symptom seems to be that when the MAP is reading below about 7 at idle or when cranking, it won't run on the original map. The question I haven't worked out the root cause of why the MAP at idle varies so much, faulty sensor, leak in the MAP hose (wouldn't that increase MAP, not decrease), intake leak (same, wouldn't that increase MAP)???

Thanks mate. I haven't really explained here because I haven't made great progress on this, plus internet troubleshooting without much data is a tough call It is an intermittent stall. Has happened at idle, when driving and when going to start it, in each case it seems it is not getting fuel into the cylinder. At other times, it starts, idles, runs OK but I haven't been brave enough to take it far since I've had to flat tow it back twice now Following the "everything is pretty tired by now" theory, I replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, injectors and fuel pressure regulator, all to no avail (at least I have spares now). I also cleaned out the tank and replaced the fuel pump sock which was the only suspicious looking thing, but still an issue.

Well, I haven't really taken it for a drive yet, I was 99% sure it was diff clunking, it happens when you moved away from a standstill under power (sounds pretty much like yours). Poking around with a pry bar in the suspension arms didn't give anything away but again that is much easier on a hoist. It is not terrible but still, I'd rather everything was 100% I think I will repeat my mistake and next replace the gearbox and engine mounts. Even if they are not the problem, the car needs a little love after so many klm....

f**kin a.....sadly the RBA has put on hold any shed comforts for a while

One other thing to mention. Working on road cars is a nightmare compared to a nice clean race car. 450,000klm of dust and crap is baked onto everything. I cleaned up all the hardware in an ultrasonic cleaner, did a reasonable job with no effort

In hindsight, without a hoist, I don't think this is the easiest way to do it. Instead, I would drop the whole subframe. Fuel tank does not need to be removed and access to the bushes would be much better. Plus, you can replace the all of the subframe bushes themselves at the same time, which is an equally painful and probably necessary job by now. To remove the subframe (short version). 1. Support the car by the sills 2. Jack under the centre of the diff. 3. Remove the rear calipers and support then on the chassis so they are not hanging by the brake lines. Undo the lower (or upper) shock mounts. 4. Undo the 3 wiring plugs for the ATTESSA pump, and the fluid feed and return to the boot reservoir. Undo the pressure line to the transfer case. 5. Undo the tailshaft 6. Undo the 4 subframe bolts and slide it down and out, and enjoy all the space to remove and install the bushes.

Right, onto putting the bushes in. I can't see any feasible way to do this in the car than using a bush pressing kit or making the equivalent yourself. Either way, if you don't have this you are stuck without a working car now I bought a bush pressing kit a few years back, and while I don't use it often, it is a life saver when I need it. I put the bushes in the freezer overnight, not sure if it helped but they did go in easy. This is the set assembled, ready to install. The new bush is in the middle, and a cup (or flat plate) larger than the bush is required to push it in. On the front side, another cup or plate larger than the bush is required to stop it at the right place. A threaded rod goes in the middle with a nut at each end to do the pushing. In the bush kits, the nuts have bearings to help them turn, in the home made version you should use the biggest nuts and rod you can find, and grease the nuts well From here, it is dead easy.....Turn the nuts until you feel the bush come up hard against the plate on the front. Voila, done. The bush sits well proud at the rear And flush at the front From there, assembly is the reverse of disassembly. Just remember to change the diff oil while it is on the floor to save future you frustration

Right, now you can start the job of bush removal. This does require a couple of specialist tools which is a good reason to get someone else to do it. Firstly, you need to get the rubber and centre part of the bush out. If the subframe is out of the car, burning it out (outside!) is a easy option but not a great plan in the car. I took a holesaw with the right diameter to just fit in the rubber part of the bush, and then a second hole saw to centre it inside the steel bore of the bush. Thanks to the good people at Sutton tools, both hole saws fit onto the same arbour, like so You need to put the drill on super slow and stop regularly to let the holesaw cool because the rubber creates massive friction on the saw. Also, you need a good quality drill (potentially corded) to take the punishment, and dig out that handle that you got with the drill but never attached to give yourself leverage against it twisting, this will turn very hard. About half way (right hand bush), you need to go slowly to prevent the rubber melting. It's a prick of a job. OK, step 1 done for 1 bush, the rubber centre is out but the steel shell is still in place. Annoyingly, I realised I didn't take pics of the next step. You have a few choices. 1. If you have a bush pressing kit, you might be able to get the right sized cup to pick up the shell but not the subframe and push it out. The shell is pretty thin so you will need to be careful. It presses out towards the rear 2. If not and your compressor is working and not leaking all it's out out the f**king pressure switch, you might be able to bang the shell out with an air chisel. If you go this way be very careful not to damage the subframe surface because it can gouge pretty quickly. 3. If you feel like a butcher, you could try a recipro saw with a very fine toothed blade 4. I went all old testament on it; disassemble a hacksaw and put the blade through the bush, upside down, then reattach the hacksaw. At the rear it is all shell hanging out of the subframe so you can safely cut through that. From there carefully cut to the front of the shell, judging what is shell and what is subframe. Once you are finished cutting, get the hacksaw out, grab a cold chisel and from the diff side bang the shell out where the cut is. It might be slow to start but as long as the shell is at least 2/3 cut through this is the best way for minimal subframe damage. No matter how you did it, clean up any resulting subframe damage with some fine sand paper as any damage will cause havoc when you go to put the new bushes in

Then, onto diff removal. Remember to leave all your tools in the dirt and oil you threw down in step 1. By now you probably have petrol in the mix too. 1. unbolt the drive shafts from the diff, there are 6x 12mm headed bolts each side. Access on the diff side is tight, use a ring spanner there if you can but an open ended spanner might be required. Compress the driveshaft on the CV joints so it comes out of the diff stub axle, and if possible rest it above the diff 2. unbolt the tailshaft from the diff. This requires an 8mm (I think?) hex head and ideally you will have a 8mm hex on 1/2" so you can crack them with a breaker bar then undo with a ratchet. I wouldn't use a rattle gun as hex heads can strip quickly if the socket is not seated properly. If doing it with a breaker bar you will need a long pry bar to stop the tail shaft turning, jamb it between another bolt head and the chassis. Don't forget to bang yourself in the head with the pry bar and/or breaker bar a couple of times. Once the bolts are out you can push the driveshaft forwards so it comes out of the diff flange. Leave it hanging somewhere that you can whack your head on it in future steps. If you didn't take the fuel tank out you probably can't get at those bolts from behind, it is possible to get a spanner in there from the side 3. From the gap where the fuel tank was, get a 12mm socket on an extension and remove the 2 rear bolts that hold the ATTESSA pump on to the diff. For the front one you need long arms and access from the right rear wheel well. Lift the pump off the diff a little so it doesn't try to leave with the diff. 4. There is also a breather from the diff cover to the chassis. I removed it by not noticing it and dropping the diff, but a better plan would be to undo the clamp and remove the hose; it is probably easiest at the chassis end as the diff end is pretty tight. 5. Put a jack under the diff, centred left to right and about 75% towards the rear. Undo the 2 rear mounts, 19mm nuts (noting there should be a second nut holding an earth strap for ATTESSA, it is important this goes back on.) 6. Undo the 2 front mounts (17mm bolts) and drop the jack a little; the diff should tilt forward as the rear studs are still holding it. You will need to move the diff forward to disengage those studs, and need to drop the front to allow clearance for the casing and ATTESSA pump mount to the subframe. Once the rear studs are clear of the subframe it is down and out.

Right, so while continuing to avoid the stalling issue, I decided to fix the clunk under acceleration by changing the diff bushes. Of course, it turned out not to be the diff bushes, they were in pretty good condition, but by the time I got there, there was no point turning back without doing the job. So, here's the DIY, no hoist steps. Frankly, unless you are super committed this is a job for a workshop with a hoist, it took me about 8 hours all up on a cold floor. On a hoist would be half that and much more comfortable. First, jack up your car (as Marty would say). Then, to save time, throw some dirt, oil and 80% of your tools all over the ground. Securely support it on stands under the subframe because there is going to be banging and swearing. I wasn't sure whether the zorst would be in the way (it is, remove it right back to the cat), and I left the fuel tank in until I got to the bush removal (dumb, I had to remove it anyway and the space would have been nice while I was doing the other work). Also take both rear wheels off, you will need that space too. In a stagea and R32, fuel tank removal is: 1. pop the fuel filler out of the panel behind the fuel cap. It is just a rubber grommet and comes out easily. Important, undo the fuel cap and leave it in loosely to prevent tank pressure pumping all the fuel out all over everything later 2. remove the plastic cover behind the right rear wheel. It will probably be held on be a collection of screws and broken clips that you should replace. There is 1 bolt holding the fuel neck to the car to remove 3. Inside the rear, remove the centre cover over the spare tyre and the right side cover over the fuel tank access cover. The access cover is held down by 4 bolts, remove them 4. Unplug both the 2 pin (fuel pump power) and 3 pin (fuel level sender and light) and then crank the car over for about 10 seconds to empty the fuel lines. Then, undo the hose clamp on the return (left) and feed (right), and use some of those nifty host pliers to pull both lines off. If you don't have nifty hose pliers it can be a pain, use a set of linesman's pliers to twist the hose 90o to break any seal between the rubber and the pipe, then carefully use those same pliers to grab the hose just past where the pipe is inside and slowly pull the hose off without squeezing too hard. If you didn't undo the fuel cap at step 1, the tank will probably be pumping fuel all over the floor now 5. Remove the 2 heat shields on the right front of the tank, not required to remove the tank but it makes it easier, and they will be in the way later 6. Put a jack under the middle of the tank front to rear (don't forget to make sure it is full of fuel to spill everywhere and be much heavier) and about 2/3 of the way to the right left to right, that is approximately the balance point but move it slowly, the fuel will slosh and over balance it if you don't 7. Undo the right rear and front left bolts holding the fuel tank straps. It will stay in place if you did step 6. Swing the straps out of the way as much as you can. 8. drop the tank smoothly about 1/4 of the way, and then via either the fuel pump access panel or through the right rear wheel arch, undo the clamp and remove the breather line near the fuel tank lid. 9. Slowly bring it down and out

Well, much more to follow about the starting issue once I work it out, but in the meantime I was reminded that these are a very large car. This is the (very large!) trailer that we use for moving the race car and have had a head of other things on it like the Leaf and even the tractor at one stage. The Fuga only just fit width wise And length wise.... ....if it didn't have the big curve in the front bar I would have been calling a tow truck On the bright side, I can confirm a tractor with a tow ball on the 3 point hitch is just as good as a forklift with a ball on the tines for manoeuvring and tilting a trailer

description doesn't sound like classic rod knock, that tends to get worse from idle to 2000. does it only happen when you are driving/full throttle/medium revs and sound like rocks rattling in a tin? that would be pinging. Maybe take a recording of the noise to give us a chance

unfortunately, post covid, nothing's cheap any more, south coast in particular. and staying warm is easy, just need to cut enough fuel for the wood burner, plus sitting in front of it on a cold evening with some grog is one of life's luxuries. (rolling around on the garage floor, not so much)

wha? today was beautiful, hit 15. Friday night though, that was cold, our first negative for the year

For reference, my race car (only has 300ish kw) does 20 min sessions, sprint races, enduro races 2hrs+, tarmac rallies up and down long hill runs etc etc on standard size GTR rotors (324mm). It does have slightly larger calipers and pads (porsche 4 spot) than factory but really it comes down to disc and pad selection.

Fair enough, I can't see it being any where near good enough to compare GPS to wheel speed in most use. Imagine you drove under a tree in a corner, I'm sure we've all had that experience where we were apparently doing 60, then 120, then 30 in the space of a second.

This probably needs it's own thread. The 2 issues (door locking and mirror) might not be directly related since the window still works. Since you can't unlock the door with the switch (and I assume with the key from the outside), it sounds like the push rods that run between the lock, internal switch, key, internal and external handle have a problem, potentially one has come off and jammed or the central locking motor might be sized. Whatever it is, you need to remove the door card to check it all out, give all of the moving parts in the locking system a good clean and grease with a sticky grease like lithium spray.

well done on the PB ......not so well done driving straight into the bog on that new rallysprint course 😛

Nice, limited edition KH2

Rev racegear have also been around forever, I've bought a lot of stuff there too. Staff are racers themselves which helps, but they don't stock as much as Vsport.

I've mostly used V-sport for in person stuff, they have a good range and service in my experience. https://goo.gl/maps/6d6MwJhf9NHyYR8eA?coh=178571&entry=tt Of course all motorsport stuff shop is expensive, online is cheaper but obviously you can't tell quality/fit etc that way, and if all the physical shops go out of business we will lose the option to check stuff is comfortable before buying

I use a larger 100 micron and smaller 30 micron set. Of course it is in a race car but it does run pump fuel, I just clean them out each year