Duncan

no idea on the standard one, ryco don't think it is important to list as a spec: https://rycofilters.com.au/part/z387 however not the size of the filter is very large compared to the 30 micron AN style ones.

Yes, I would (I do). The small filter may block very quickly and require regular cleaning (or you risk sudden engine death)

Thanks the pic helps, I've not had any experience with semi or fully returnless personally. A standard, return setup would certainly work at that level with -6 feed lines. I would say that a single 30 micron filter might be an issue, generally you would have a larger (100 micron) pre-filter as well.

I'm a little confused what you mean exactly, but at 300kw the stock lines and rail are fine so whatever you are thinking above should be too.

yes, for sure you can just tap in, just make sure the connections are good quality because if you add any resistance in the joint the gauge and ECU might read high (or low for fuel level)

Understood, but unfortunately a key reason for a cold radiator is that there is no coolant in it, it will just be at ambient air temp then.... It is way hard to guess without seeing the car, but coolant can look like smoke and no coolant feels like cold coolant

Is there any coolant in the radiator?

A minor overfill will be no issue

so, as I mentioned in another thread on this leak recently, just back off the attessa line where it goes into the rear of the transfer case about 1/2 turn (or 12 turns if I can't type), then tighten it up again. Give everything a thorough degrease and see how it goes. you can monitor the level of that fluid in the reservoir in the boot, just top it up if necessary

Great to see it coming along. It might just be the angle, but with the adapter the unprotected battery+ terminal looks crazy close to the earthed battery hold down bar....I'd hate to see this car burn to the ground....

We talked about this a month ago including posting the wiring of the switches Headlight switch is a common failure point on R32, attempting to clean is an option but I would (did!) replace the whole switch as they are readily available new, and you won't have to worry again until 2055. If you still have issues with the dash lights after replacing the switch I'd check the loom between the headlight switch and dash for continuity issues or loose/damaged pins, and it is possible (but less likely) if there is a single ground for the dash lights and nothing else that has an issue.

Does not having a cat result in error lights? I'm sure my Titan has less than factory and it runs OK (similar ECU)

Thanks for the pic, that is good info for next time. There is every chance the 4wd sensor is the same wiring plus the additional sensor with additional wiring, maybe ask midori or others if A-LSD Is supported

No, what you need to do is get an O2 sensor bung welded onto the new exhaust. The factory ECU relies heavily on accurate O2 readings at all times.

Does the brake dash light come on when you put the parking brake on? Anyway. I don't have a 33 A-LSD wiring manual, but the R32 GTR manual shows all the wiring at the g sensor comes directly from the boot control unit So, at this stage it seems like your gsensor probably has an issue because: 1. We know it is plugged in 2. The control unit must be at least partly working because you saw error codes on it (ie, it has enough power and earth to fire up) Next I would use a multimeter to check continuity of each of those 9 wires from the g sensor to the control unit. If they are all OK, assuming there is not another g-sensor handy to swap in and check, it is probably time to buy a replacement. I believe midori make one, and probably others.

BTW, not sure if you were already aware, but an incorrectly installed vacuum tube almost certainly means your engine has been out and probably rebuilt at some stage (potentially head only). You can't get at that pipe without moving the front timing cover, timing gears and rear timing cover too which you would never bother doing for something like a timing belt change.

what, 32 seconds?

I'm not going to try and wash my car with copper washers. Yes, they have "wash" in the name but it's just not the same thing

lol I just assumed it was a 33 gtst because there was no mention of 4wd not working. Imagine how much easier it would be to help if people listed their car, and their location, in the fields called "car" and "location" in their profile!

Still don't know why the car is stalling (although I have a hint now, looks like ECU is turning down the injector duty cycle until it stalls). In the meantime, proof nissan's japanese engineers have that kooky sense of humour normally reserved for race mechanics. I was looking under the front bumper of the stagea today, and found this sticker. I used google translate, it says "If you can read this please turn this prestige touring wagon that is functional yet comfortable back over"

What's the bet the g sensor is not plugged in, given that list.... Assuming it is the same as 4wd chassis, it will be under your centre console

yeah funny how that song never seems to end

surely there aren't many people on this forum old enough to remember Falkor. And those who are have probably forgotten anyway

lol yes, / makes a big difference

OK, you are right, your mechanic doesn't know what they are looking at. The best way to investigate an oil leak is to thoroughly degrease any apparent leak, drive for a day or 3, then put back up on the hoist and check again. The first oil is almost certainly from when the oil filter was changed (unless the filter is relocated, you can check by looking under the front 1/3 of the plenum for the oil filter. From there you can see that whenever you change the filter, you will drop 300ml of oil on top of the front diff, which then runs down the front of the front diff (pic 1, 2, 7) and steering rack (6) The other point that appears to be leaking is the ATTESSA/4wd actuator at the rear of the transfer case, the leak might be either the line that goes into the actuator or the flange where the actuator bolts to the transfer case. It is hard to tell because there is a bit of oil there. Step 1 I would back off the nut on the hose that goes into the actuator about 12 turn, then tighten it up again, this is a common leakage point over time.