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Duncan

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Everything posted by Duncan

  1. Duncan
    The other reason to remove these is simply that if you lunch a motor, you really can't clean out the internal oil passages properly (like all oil coolers) so you need to bin the one you have. Then you find out they are a gaziliion dollars from nissan and decide you can live without it
  2. Duncan
    I ran a cheapy highmount stainless turbo on the stagea for years. It cracked every year or 2 and I got it rewelded, until I gave up and when 6 boob instead.
  3. Duncan
    yeah I've got a thermostat in the race car too, on things like rallies it does a lot of cold starts.
  4. Duncan
    oil cooler is not required unless a gauge/sensor tells you it is getting hot the way you use the car. It is more likely to keep the oil too cold longer each time you start it than help you keep it cool when being driven hard.
  5. Duncan
    mate, I understand you want certainty, especially because if it leaks it is box off again to fix. but in the end, most jobs come down to fundamentals. In this case you have a factory designed, properly engineered sealing system with a sealant designed to go in flexible, take up the required shape and then set firm but still flexible, with suitable bolts to hold the pressure on the sealant. you don't need to overthink this.
  6. Duncan
    No, I haven't done this before, I've always changed the rear main when I change the bearings I do need to do it some time in the rb30 stagea, and that is how I plan to. There is no reason it will leak at the corners, just have a dab of extra sealant there; the whole point of silicone to seal is it retains some flex over it's life. No tips required, undo the bolts and gently pry it off with a bar or flat screwdriver if it resists. The seal will slide over the crank. When you reseal it don't use too much silicone, a thin (3mm) bead is plenty
  7. Duncan
    Longer term, its probably an opportunity to chuck out all the modern electronics that a skiddy car doesn't want/need. Will probably require an ECU change to aftermarket as I bet the factory one will be grumpy if it doesn't hear from the BCM that everything is good.
  8. Duncan
    If you aren't confident working through every potentially damaged wire and want a chance of racing tomorrow, you need to see if the S1 loom fits. There are wiring diagrams available for each year of the US cars, so just pick the closest to yours and remember it may not be identical. I've never seen any accurate Japanese (or translated) manuals for any of the post R34 stuff.
  9. Duncan
    Absolutely. That is 100% how I would do it, you are 4 bolts away from making this job a million times easier for yourself.
  10. Duncan
    What's the $60k for? replacing broken computers to stop error lights on the dash?
  11. Duncan
    Unless you can't access the sump bolts, removing the retainer and doing it all on the bench, then cleaning and reapplying the sealant is probably easiest. You won't get one of those big pullers in with the crank there.
  12. Duncan
    Ha! That thread has been up since you last logged on. I have a bunch of other stuff to move, wait until the internet finds out I have a working Epson EJ1 I don't need.
  13. Duncan
    I was hoping it meant Not Safe for Work but also left disappointed
  14. Duncan
    Thanks Brett, great idea.
  15. Duncan
    Also, since they are still squealing...get hold of some anti-squeal compound and but it between the back of the pads and the shims, and between each shim. Like this (https://www.permatex.com/products/lubricants/brakes-parts/permatex-disc-brake-quiet-12-oz/, noting it might cause cancer if you live in California). Like I said originally, squealing is caused by a high frequency vibration somewhere in the stack between the brake caliper piston and the hub. This stuff tries to flex and stop that happening at those points, but it can still happen where the disc sits on the hub, surface of the disc, surface of the pad etc Do you know what pads are in there? Swapping to something street friendly and less dusty can help
  16. Duncan
    A big brake kit looks good but is really never required except for heavy race use. I run standard vspec calipers with good discs and pads in my race/rally car. These cars had reasonable brakes from the factory. If everything is tight when you load the caliper, you just need to push the pistons back a little. Take the pad from one side of the disc (leave the other one in), then use it to lever between the disc and the piston (carefully!) to get the space you need. If it is really hard to move you have a seized piston and need to rebuild the brakes anyway, it should retract smoothly with moderate pressure
  17. Duncan
    yeah the only trick is to get the cap that suits your master cylinder. I use the SP Tools one. https://sydneytools.com.au/product/sp-tools-sp70809-25l-brake-clutch-pressure-bleeding-kit The other option is vacuum bleeder but you still need to attach it to each nipple rather than once at the master cylinder. Either way, if you use a pressure bleeder you need to be careful not to empty the master cylinder and suck air in because it is a bitch to clean back out
  18. Duncan
    Good of them to confirm. I've never had to do it so don't know the procedure, but you can also measure the height to ensure you have the right carrier and bearing size
  19. Duncan
    The main difference in the 350z and GTR brembos is the offset of the disc and caliper to the hub, so check those measurements from the DBA site.
  20. Duncan
    Yes, the Brembo brakes across R32 Vspec, R33 and R34 GTR are all identical sizes and pad shapes, I think the colour might have changed in R34 but they are the same otherwise. They all run a 324x32mm disc (which we'd refer to as DBA 4928/5928) and a DB1178 pad Same story in the rear, they are the same across R32 vspec, R33 and R34 with a DBA 4929 disc and DB1521 pads. If you can't cross reference those numbers in the UK, the dimensions and pad samples are on the DBA website. Re the fluid, I've never come across DOT5 in the wild, it is highly unlikely to be the case. When I get a new (used!) car I just flush the fluid out with 2 bottles of general DOT3 or 4 (whatever is cheap) and then put in whatever I was after for that car (generally Motul RBF600 if it is performance or race use)
  21. Duncan
    I am sure they are not a nissan factory kit, not sure what they are though
  22. Duncan
    The problems are in converting a 2rwd (eg rb30) block to 4wd, in that case the oil pickup fouls the front driveshaft in the sump, and the block is not drilled for 4wd sump bolts (thus the 2wd to 4wd conversion plates). Using a 4wd block in 2wd should just be bolt on, noting the pickup location is different. It looks like the setup dose posted uses a custom pickup, probably because the sump well is deeper. If you try and move the pickup to the standard location you will have to drill to the oil gallery as the flange is in the casting but the feed is not drilled (and obviously you have to block the original pickup gallery with a plug)
  23. Duncan
    I should add, if you dont have the spring that holds the pad retaining pins you run a risk of the pads falling out. At a minimum put r pins or even split pins through the hole on the retaining pins to make sure they dont back out
  24. Duncan
    I reckon the pads look fine, but you can see that not having anti squeal shims might cause squealing. Even while you are waiting for them, give everything a through cleaning brake cleaner, you should be able to quieten in up
  25. Duncan
    good to hear the engine is healthy! absolutely no idea about the other, it is an unusual description
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