Duncan

Well apparently, but it isn't obvious why. Benalla have sold the track to the guys who own the other track near Marulan (Pheasant's Nest). https://www.goulburnpost.com.au/story/8121724/steves-passion-project-injects-hope-for-wakefields-future/ It is not clear why a different owner will have a different outcome, maybe it is something about the Land and Environment order being against the old owner, not the new one

Great write up, thanks. Did you record what fittings are required for pressure and return at both pump and rack ends?

well, for that particular drive you could do sydney - bathurst via Bells Line then Bathurst-Canberra via one of 3 roads (via Taralga, Crookwell or Cowra but it is literally twice as long at 6hrs+ or shorter but not as interesting Sydney - Nowra then Nowra-Canberra via either Tarago (5hrs) or Bateman's Bay/Braidwood (6hrs)

absolutely no idea.....turn up the boost and find out Neo is apparently a good head I guess you will need cams at that level though, not sure if the head studs are required

Yes, and Yes. The boost switch would need to be wired into a spare input in the link

you chuck the boost controller unit and keep the solenoid and its plumbing. Attach the solenoid to the wiring in from the stock location (extend the wires if necessary).

Mark, you need this: https://www.carsales.com.au/editorial/details/frankentitan-busts-out-124370/ Or even better, I saw Louie's original stretched navara for sale a few years back, can't find link any more but at least we know it still exists

good choice to throw the overtorqued fasteners....but I'd still buy another new set if you have time, it would be a shame to do all this then have the old one break and lunch your engine

I know some people have gone the external pump with a wet sumo route, but I use nitto internal pump (which seems to be very similar to the Tomei pump). A external pump requires a crank mandrel to drive it, mounting and an extra belt to throw or misalign, I don't see that is safer with a wet sump

And, since there are 2, that makes me wonder if you have the right timing belt kit. Are you converting to twin cam head, and if so are you adding a second idler?

Cam front seals.

Yeah just double checked a crank I have, that is the factory crank big end and main gradings. Details of the factory grades are on EN101 of the r32 manual. They are of no relevance 30 years later of course

Highly unlikely to be a hydraulic issue, even before bleeding it, your first vid clearly shows the slave cylinder working correctly. Also, the fact that you can get 5 forward gears at idle but not reverse is consistent with the clutch not disengaging From there it gets trickier, my guess is you have some problem with the throw out bearing or carrier's height. From the side by side pic the bearings seem to have a very different height (and so does the pivot ball but I'm not sure what effect that will have). I've never had to sort this myself, maybe someone else here can suggest how to check the engagement/bearing height is correct

I take it that it just crunches if you try and put it in gear with foot on clutch? Have you taken it for a drive to see if it changes without the clutch (with correct revs)? Well, you can start by confirming the slave cylinder is moving the fork properly, it should move a cm or 2 when you put foot on the clutch. From there you kind of need to know what's happening in the bellhousing. Is the fork clipped into the thrust bearing OK (assuming this is a push clutch) and is it also clipped onto the pivot ball OK? If all that is right, it might be the wrong height carrier/thrust bearing.

yeah you'll just have to check it. unknown shop could have done anything

Agreed, but to continue a bit off topic that is why you would generally use a mechanical not quaife in the rear. Even then, how you approach a corner and suspension setup makes a big difference, and any loss of traction in those circumstances like curb hopping is very temporary

The quaife/wheel lifting thing isn't an issue in a GTR, even with rally or circuit use. Any single wheel is not off the ground long enough for it to have any meaningful impact and ATTESSA always has at least 50% power at the rear anyway so you never get caught out by this. I think the whole "helical diffs have an issue with a wheel off the ground" comes from the 4wd/off road world where it is a big problem; in that case you can be totally stuck if the wheel off the ground on a given axle gets all the power. In that case you really need a switchable locker

Actually, here is the original website. https://www.mearcat.com.au/stagea.html I spoke to the original supplier a few years back and they confirmed they were no longer making them, so there should be no issues

Exactly. Drill an 80mm hole and mount gauges there. They also made a single gauge holder which was a little more elegent

And, I don't know if I am the only one with this issue, but the plastic handles in the cargo area that pull on the rear seat release have both broken in my car. RHS is from Nissan, LHS is available for now at around $110AUD but only as a complete assembly including cable. I'd be on a couple of those (even better if they were reinforced compared to factory) like a seagull on a chip

These were once available, but no longer. Gauge pods designed to mount where the factory clock is. Not necessarily saying an identical design, but they were a great idea.

Great looking product, good to see someone stepping in to make things not readily available from nissan

To answer your questions backwards, a GTR box is a GTS4 box. I don't know the wiring differences and I haven't looked at it personally, but GTSBoy put up detailed wiring diagrams here: Top left of diagram 1 shows in Auto cars the start wire from the ignition switch goes via the inhibitor switch and then to the starter motor. I don't know where it is or what it looks like, but you need to bypass that. Given the diagram doesn't show any other wires involved from the gearbox, I guess it might be at the auto trans shifter. I can't work out the reverse lights at a quick look, but I think you need to use the reverse switch on the manual gearbox as the trigger so wiring changes will be needed unless the auto also had a reverse switch. Neutral switch should not be required. None of that is ECU related, so swapping ECU will not help

solid advice, because that is a very real possibility at this stage. the underlying problem is probably the headlight switch, the whole headlight power goes through it and as it gets old it can have increased resistance. You need to get another switch, I recommend brand new from nissan For now you have to leave the fuse out and not drive at night. The headlight power wiring (blue/red) goes all over the place because it controls a lot of functions as well as the headlights like dash lights, cigarette lighter lights, tail lights etc etc etc. Somewhere a bare part of that wire is contacting the chassis and shorting so you need to find and fix that, or more likely if you are not confident with electrics replace the whole dash loom and anything else that is damaged (maybe front loom as well)

Could you tell us a bit more about what you mean by overheating? Does it get hot when driving, when idling, how hot, have you taken the cap off when it is cold and checked if you can see any coolant? Is there any white smoke when driving? radiator pressure test? compression test?