Duncan

Now you should better understand the pain our NA brothers and sisters (and themsters) feel every day.

Yeah sorry I meant page EN-62 from the R32 GTR workshop manual, Point 6, which says this about the 2 washers on the tensioner If the crank trigger is welded to the crank timing belt gear, then yes the woodruff key will stop that spinning unless either the key or the crank are badly damaged (and in which case the timing would likely be off/moving anyway). Generally the timing gear slides off the crank OK, but they can be a nightmare on some cranks (generally due to rust etc). If it slides off easily, just consider yourself lucky. If it is really stuck, I've seen people resort to grinding/chiseling them off etc but it is a bad time by then because you are likely to damage the crank as well

Welcome to SAU Thomas, sounds like you'd had a bit of a an unlucky start with the car, hopefully you get some better luck now!

1. No need, it only gets used once then is locked in place by the nut 2. EN-62 point 6 shows the conical washer the other way around (BTW I know we discussed above, I hope you are changing the idler as well, while it is no guarantee the bearing is a actually bad, it looks terrible) 3. I'm not really clear on the question, are you worried because it was easy, not hard, to remove the custom timing trigger? As long as it doesn't spin on the crank (when the bolt is tight) all good 4. Yeah just make sure the brand is easy to read as it rolls past 5. The part number is on the listing under the description, 13023-42L00. Given there is a custom part on there for timing (presumably outside the cover), they may have decided to leave that off; I think I would put the washer in there as it also helps seal the timing case from crap getting in.

No need to replace the cover if it is still intact (not worn through). It would be worth checking the balancer for matching marks on the rear, but I'd assume the balancer was loose at some stage. The cam timing marks look fine, once you put the new belt on you can only be right or a full tooth out

Disconnecting rods! must have been an unpleasant surprise...

The specific reasons I suggested them in this case are: * OP has a complex issue that needs to be checked out thoroughly, so their engineering approach rather than just chuck whatever on should help * I've found them to be honest about what problems exist, even if the customer doesn't want to know bad news I'm sure there are places that will bolt on stuff and do a tune cheaper, and faster

Its definitely not factory. You'd have to check but the yellow wire is something in the key (so see when it has 12v). The blue wire would have been a switched version of whatever the yellow wire was (eg if yellow is IGN, then blue was something that can be switched on when IGN is on). Whatever it is, it is now inop if nothing is plugged into it.

I'd suggest calling Unigroup, they have a lot of experience with these, access to reliable fabricators etc. Of course it will cost but at least you can trust what they tell you

I've always just put that plug in dry (ie no sealant), it is a tapered thread so do it up "fairly" tight but not VFT and it should be fine

I think that will requires @jamesnorman93 to check their link, or alternatively someone else with time to run the PDF through an OCR tool

So, I'm not a diff swapsies specialist, but I am pretty sure the 300zx ran an R220 not and R200 like the C34 Stagea, so I think it is of no use to you. As you said, all you need to do is get the centre swapped in the diff you have, which might be best done by a diff specialist. The current centre is probably desirable to someone to track so an easy path might be to swap your mechanical centre for someone with a standard centre (which is a viscous LSD, and almost certainly won't have any limited left). The only thing you have to watch swapping R200 internals between diffs is that the number of splines on your car's stub axles has to match the donor car, or you need the centre+stub axles and make sure they have the same number and pattern of bolt holes as your rear axles. You swap your current ratio onto the new centre so you don't have to worry about matching the front. Alternatively, centres like the Nismo pro are much gentler (and have adjustable "tightness") so you could buy on of those from somewhere like Jesse Streeter or Nengun (noting it may cost you 1234% extra in tariffs by the time it lands)

no, you aren't, but good to see you pop by

In that case it is probably stock. It lives in the navigator side footwell behind the plastic trim just in front of the a pillar.

This. I'm confused by the whole discussion. The only reason you would have a car with e85 only if it was track use and you only ever used e85. All other use cases you add a flex fuel sensor, do the flex tune (you only need to do a couple of % and then interpolate the rest) and then you put whatever the hell you feel like including a mix in the tank and it just works. Want a long drive? fill with 98 Want max zoom? fill with e85 Got a half tank of 98 then find e85 somewhere? Throw it in.

Sounds good....do you have a dyno run for it? Also, sounds like you should get an Ecutek tune shortly to make the most of the hard changes.

That rusty picture gives me nightmares. I can't believe it would not have been cheaper to put plastic tanks in all R32s...... And yes, I meant the factory mount is a kind of baffle...it slides into (and sometimes easily out of) a plastic mount glued to the tank floor

Looks like they've been through a few versions of the kit; that is not the one I had trouble with (it had the level sender attached to baffles on the floor, the one you linked the level sender is hung from the hat). One obvious point about that kit is it has no baffles at all, not even the factory setup (although it looks like you can retain the factory setup if you want). Not sure if that will be an issue or not, the good news is it looks like you can get the pump nice and low in the tank, but that doesn't help if the fuel is all sloshing to one side of a wide flat tank

That's the thing....the basics of fuel and ignition are deceptively simple.....getting it to behave like factory in all conditions after airflow mods is way more complex. Newer cars like the V37 are all about modifying the standard ECU which is about a billion times more complex than they were 20 years ago, with a bunch of parameters affecting others

nah, sounds too easy

BTW, don't forget to make sure your fuel tank is full before attempting any work on the fuel system. Ideally in the middle of winter when the fuel is about 5o as well.

No, it is still quiet enough with the interior in place, no worse than factory (I think, its been a while....) Modern pumps are pretty quiet compared to the old school 040 etc which run loader than the motor

I don't know, but Nissan often supersede parts with other parts that are compatible. Using your VIN you can check here: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Otherwise, if it is not an official supersession but physically fits you would need a bit of luck for someone to post their experience, or just send it (ie, if it bolts in the right place, has the right pulley or you can change the right pulley on, and the outlets are in the right place, just use it) Finally...unless your current pump has internal damage, you should be able to get it rebuilt (new bearings and seals) by any half decent mechanic; bearings and seals are readily available

Maybe, but this is a VR not a VQ. I'd talk to Just Jap as they are the local AMS importer and have a workshop, otherwise Tunehouse are the Ecutec Australian distributor and said they had modified a few of these

Sorry, I wasn't very clear.....just that the standard injectors are apparently good over 600rwhp/450rwkw which you won't get to on standard turbos anyway.....they are much better sized from factory than we are used to in RBs.