Duncan

This is the clearest explanation out of those: Page 77: Turn the crankshaft clockwise two full rotations with the tensioner pulley installation bolt in a loose condition. Insert a wrench into the tensioner pulley hexagonal hole to fix the tensioner pulley in place, then tighten the installation bolts. Tightening torque: 43–58 N·m (4.4–5.9 kg·m). The timing belt tension should be at the correct tension. Basically you turn the engine with the tensioner bolt loose, then use the allen key to hold it while you torque it up. And yes after that a good guide is being able to twist it 90o in one of the long free lengths of the belt

good choice....I have a set of those and use them all the time including on this job. Plus, no-one wants a damaged nipple

1. No, as you say you can remove the connectors and fuel lines. Before you do make sure you remove fuel pump fuse and crank the starter a few times to release pressure, and also loosen the fuel cap (just in case the tank is slightly pressurised) as it will pump out the lines otherwise 2. Not necessary but you are right, if it is the factory pump it is at risk of failing after 25 years....Changing it is not hard but potentially not trivial as you have to make sure you have the right pickup/sock for the pump to suit the tank, need to make wiring connections (crimped butt connectors would be fine) and have to mount/adapt the new pump in the right place in the cradle. Not impossible but don't start the job if you aren't confident. Also, the plastic nut that holds that seal in place can be really hard to remove. If you don't have a fuel nut removal tool it generally requires a big screwdriver or similar to bash the ring around a few times before you can get it by hand. Also the fuel lines can be very sticky on the tank lid fittings, hose removal pliers can help or if not twist the hose on the fitting (eg with linesperson's pliers) to break the seal before you try and remove it. Finally, mark the feed and return hoses so you don't put them on backwards and seal them with an m8 bolt to stop crap getting into the lines while working. Add a little grease in the threads of the plastic lid when you go to do it back up as a gift to your future self, and make sure you put it on evenly/not cross threaded. Having said all that, most likely the lid just needs to be either tightened or removed and put back on without being cross threaded...the seal itself is usually pretty good.

I wouldn't go near them, they are rubber seals for a reason. Just chuck new cam cover seals, half moons and the spacers for the screws every decade or two. I add a really thin layer of silicone too and it seems to hold together OK

Is it a dog or synchro box? I guess either way, if it is new and crunching in one gear only, it has to come out and go back to the shop to check/measure as there is either an assembly or manufacturing issue

1. I can't see a location on your profile but you do mention GBP so I'll assume you are in UK. In Australia, CBC make a timing belt kit with the gears and idler and tension bearing and that is what I use without any problems. I'm sure OEM or HKS are also fine but I wouldn't pay extra for HKS over anything else. 2. Yes, I would always change the idler and tensioner and the stud and bolt that hold them in. Assuming they were all done last time it is highly unlikely you would have a problem, but they are very cheap to add to the job considering the time it will take anyway. 3. No, you don't need to lock them as such (I think that is more for engines without timing marks), but you should make sure they move as little as possible once the belt is off as you can hit pistons on valves if they move too far. As always, make sure you line it all up to top dead centre with the timing marks aligned before you take the old belt off.

Yeah it is really until until you get a feel for it....then it is easy. Which is no use to you really. I'd buy that torque wrench. One thing from sure, many (most?) tyre shots overtighten the f**k out of wheel nuts, so don't worry if they were tighter when you tried to take them off compared to when you do them up. I've had some crazy tight ones come back from shops, quite apart from the potential damage to the thread, I can't see a smaller person taking the wheel off on the side of the road

Do you have a link to the supplier, and how do they sound (I'm assuming there is no noticeable change to power :))

Looks like that gasket should have been censored....glad to hear it is sorted

Saw this today via Super Cheap. https://trade.supercheapauto.com.au/p/penrite-1-x-enviro--5w30-20l/SPO7089220.html They are very clear that the box style is "Enviro+" as well as a green coloured box. No information in the listing suggests what the actual green washing claim for dinosaur juice in a non-recyclable foil bag might be

I often leave mine connected weeks at a time. The main one I use is the old model of this, it has 2 important features - choose battery chemistry other than lead acid (most of mine are AGM) - power supply mode which you can use to try and recover dead flat batteries as "smart" chargers often don't recognise a dead flat battery is connected https://www.projecta.com.au/products/IC10/intellicharge-10a-bat-chgr The Ctek I use was meant to have a battery test mode as well but it doesn't work 100% of the time so I am pissed at them. The distributor did everything possible to make warranty and support difficult so I'll stay away in future. The main thing with a "trickle" charger is it has multi stage programs, ie once the battery is full it turns the current right down to just maintain the charge....in the old days we just used real "trickle" chargers for that which had a maximum output of say 500mA which was safe to just leave connected to dumb old lead batteries.

I don't read the 2nd paragraph the same way, I believe it is defining "modifications" from the previous paragraph, and I'd be happy to have a lawyer argue that in case of an issue.....if they have agreed to it and listed it on the schedule it is covered. Has anyone had them attempt to deny it based on that reading?

I have a projecta one. A proper trickle charger can be left attached 24x7, that's what the trickle bit is about.

Unleash the cheap Gucci bags!

If you do go with drain back, make sure everything is foam or wool filled so it actually does something, and ensure there is a screen somewhere in the drain to catch anything that comes loose from the packing. I don't drain back

No, I don't remember the exact reasoning (was 20 years ago!) but the cops didn't end up supplying it to us either. Actually my mother went through a similar thing recently where she was hit when stationary, flustered and didn't get address (she got plate details, name, phone and insurance company, but not address). Person who hit her blocked her number and their insurance company (naturally) would not provide any details. Her insurance company also required her to pay the at fault premium because she did not have the address, cops did not help as it is a minor civil matter (they said their only course was if the other driver had left the scene of the accident without providing any details). She only ended up getting that refunded because they happened to be insured with Suncorp and she was with APIA so same company owners. For some reason the address is critical in insurance companies recovering money from the at fault party

Yeah to be clear I'm not naive, I'm sure all insurance companies are a bunch of arseholes who pay people bonusses based on the value of genuine claims they avoid....I just don't want to go back to one that has personally f**ked me multiple times in the past

I like that you made it gender neutral.

Well, that's why I left Shannons. First they made us pay the excess after a taxi hit the z when it was parked. We supplied the rego and police report, they didn't feel any responsibility to find the owner and would not pay for the repair until we paid the excess. Then our house (insured with Shannons) was broken into, and the safe containing spare keys for 9 cars was stolen. Shannons tried to tell us that as well as the house excess we had to pay the excess for each car to key them rekeyed (ie almost $10k in excesses for one theft event). They backed down on that after we went through the ombudsman but we left them after that.

Indeed, it is much easier to get at the filter with the engine on a stand

I didn't mis-type

Really good point about checking fuses - a test light is not reliable because you might get the voltage from the wrong side of the fuse (my guess is some diode has failed somewhere). You need to check both test tabs of the fuse for continuity. With the fuel pressure mis match, I wouldn't touch it. The car was tuned with the incorrect setting so changing it is more likely to cause a problem (lean out in this case). If/when the car is next tuned get it fixed then. Thanks for the update, it is always good to add to the knowledge base

No, none of our classes allow E85, and yes I check it regularly (every engine change) and there has been no deterioration, just a bit of discolouration

That cannot have been a fun set of drilling. The stock "baffle" looks identical to rb26, I just cut fuel cell foam to fit the full length under the baffle.

I had the same previously, and it really shits me. They just run off red book averages or whatever as the maximum insured, there are never good quality cars available to buy for anywhere near those prices. I don't even understand why they do it. Sure having a customer overinsure then false claim is a risk, but how often does that really happen in the world, 1%? 0.1%? On the other hand, all 10-20% above redbook listed prices and charge 10-20% higher premium, surely that is more profitable for those cockroaches