Duncan

Be careful up there Molly! (surely not too soon). In any case, I'm not convinced those wind driven ones do much, I guess it is worth the try. I've got Mark's awesome solar ones in the garage (not the shed sadly) but they aren't available any more and I think most current ones are junk too

Just run oil pressure to your ECU and shut down the motor if you lose pressure. Most N1 pumps in the world don't fail, the biggest risk factor seems to be bouncing off the rev limiter like a foo. Of course if you are thinking big big power (you didn't really give a figure above) then you should be changing to a different oil pump setup as the fundamental design from nissan was not great for quadrupling factory power....external wet pump is better a bit of a half pregnant option, dry sump is the way to keep a big $$ engine safe

funny, 2 days after that last post I got nailed in the back entering the freeway, I am still waiting for the new rear bar to arrive and get it back on the road. anyway, I did the xanavi upgrade from ebay. Everything was simple, plug and play English conversion. Probably the only thing not great is the English control buttons they provided are not a great match in colour/texture to the factory buttons, but of course you could keep the factory buttons if it worries you. Also, I lost the passenger mirror front parking camera in the conversion which is a shame A key thing for the fuga is that the head unit includes Australian maps, and one of the autonomous driving features gives a warning if you are a approaching a corner too fast. Obviously that doesn't work with the factory japanese maps. Also, there are options to put in aftermarket head units eg Andriod. I've put one of them in my stagea and have found it excellent, however, for the fuga you might or would lose the hybrid monitoring and some other head unit based controls. I generally think Android is a better head unit than factory because you can run whatever apps you want, but I was not willing to lose the hybrid display features I'm not sure if the english units are still available. The seller I brought from is shut https://www.ebay.com/str/xanavioemupgrades

I run 32 GTR brakes on the rear, and the stock space saver fits over them fine. It is the 350mm ATTKD 8 spots that doesn't fit. There is absolutely no issue using a wheel that fits over the hub, even if the hub ring is not correct (obviously you cannot mount the wheel if it's bore is smaller than the hub size. The hub/wheel bore is just to make it easier to fit the wheel, once it is on the pressure of the wheel nuts on the stud clamping the wheel to the hub face hold it in place. If they were day to day rims with a bore mismatch you can buy hub centric adapters but don't lose a second's sleep with a temporary spare

yeah just fine grade wet and dry, it should be fine

Agreed....but if it is what he has.... I was wondering if there was a voltage drop with the AC on, the ATTESSA is pretty voltage sensitive, particularly if the subframe earths are missing/broken etc

1 wire oil sensors would be either temp or pressure warning light, although the latter is usually quite a large unit

I just have the standard one, it has been fine (for short distances) even with bigger tyres (I run 245/45/18). The bigger issue is that the standard spare doesn't fit over big front brakes, so despite GTSBoy's good advice, I have to run it on the rear. Have done so a few times without issue, just take it easy and change as soon as you can

I don't suppose you have any way to monitor the car's voltage when the issue occurs....it might be dropping and ATTESSA is the first thing to complain

No, it's really not OK. Like GTSBoy said it is before the turbos but there is still significant vacuum there under boost. You need to disconnect the other end and properly plug the intake with "something" correctly sized and a decent host clamp. And since that part wasn't done right you should check how everything was disconnected at the end you took the pic of too. Do you have any BOVs or are those ports blocked off? Is there a loose vacuum line there anywhere?

Since we are all wild guessing, I think there is some crap in your fuel tank. Try changing the fuel filter again and see if it improves for a while

...so, having that pipe there is no real issue as you can't have BOVs that return to the intake any more. you should however check what is at the other end of the pipe, from factory it joins into the intake just after the airbox and before the turbs. Duct tape won't stop a boost leak so hopefully both ends of it are disconnected and the intake port is properly sealed off

Can you drop it at my place, I cracked mine. I guess you have aftermarket/atmo blow off valve(s) or none at all. Pretty lazy just to leave it sitting there though

Even better if your car looks like a 90s volvo

correct, except importantly you can get defected at any time if the police *think* your car may not be legal, engineered or not. You will need to have the car re-inspected if so which would include checking back to the engineered details

Yes, this is probably the issue. a BOV is literally a big boost leak by design. It needs a vacuum line to the top of the BOV from after the throttle. If you don't have the same pressure in that vacuum line as the intake, the BOV falls open.

I've never removed the front half of the tailshaft, it sounds like you've separated the centre/hanger bearing. I'd undo the rear half at the diff, then the 2 bolts for the centre bearing hanger, then take it to a driveshaft shop to properly replace the centre bearing while it is out.....they are all badly worn by this age anyway

Yeah it is such a pain on the floor, but possible. Get the car as high as you safely can to have room to work. Like BK said the main thing is letting in engine tilt back. You probably have heater hosts between the head and the firewall, not sure but if you can get them out of the way it will let the engine tilt back further. If you can get the head to rest on the firewall it will be nice You must have the clutch aligned in the pressure plate before you start, using a clutch alignment tool or even better old input shaft I've used 2 floor jacks under the box, front and rear, so you can manage the angle of the box Then, you need to get the box high enough (probably at a pretty steep angle) to get the input shaft past the pressure plate fingers. Be careful among all the swearing not to rest the box's weight on the input shaft as you don't want to bend anything. Once it is past the pressure plate you can raise the rear of the box to be more level and move forward until the input shaft is in the back of the crank, yes you probably need to twist it a bit so the starter motor bulge clears. At this point the most important thing is exact same angle between the engine and gearbox (they should both still be pointing down as much as the engine can). You can check the angle is even by the gap between the bellhousing and the block being equal top and bottom and both sides. If it is not co-operating as you as the input shaft seats in the clutch plate, turn the engine a little with a breaker bar on the crank pulley. Most often if the splines on the clutch and input shaft don't align initially they will co-operate and turn enough on the way in, but sometimes you need to turn the crank just a little to sort it From there it needs to move forward until the gap is down to 10mm or less, at which point you can pull them together with a bolt / c clamp etc, as long as those gaps are even. If you force it crooked at this point you can bend the input shaft Get the top bolts done up before you level the engine again as you'll have better clearance. Best way is 3 or 4 long extensions on a ratchet, all above the gearbox to get to those 2 bolts, all the others are easy. It really is a shit job on the floor, these boxes are damn heavy. BTW I have done engine only out the top, engine and gearbox out the top and engine and gearbox out the bottom. Engine and gearbox out the top really is no fun because it is such a long weight to tilt and move.

I don't know about 700hp, but I run the stock rb25 throttle body on a greddy copy FFP, and it makes 400kw It does have drivability issues at very light throttle which I think is understand with MAP tunes with cable throttle and big cams These days, I'd 100% run an electric throttle instead.

Sorry I'm not sure, but to work it out turn on Ignition, unplug all and check which pin on the car side has 12v (which goes out with IGN). Then on the gearbox loom side check for continuity between that pin and any other when the auto is in Neutral, that is your neutral switch wiring. Same for Reverse. Probably the same for Park/inhibitor although I guess you will just loop that one. I'm not sure about C34 but in R32 the engine sub loom loom has reverse switch, neutral switch, oil pressure switch/warning light, power steering idle up switch, oil temp sender for gauge, alternator wiring and starter motor power and solenoid.

I assumed it was being period correct. Speaking of which I have some 90s period correct stuff I need to get out of my shed, need to sell it to the seppos. Anyway, welcome to SAU!

Great place to start and a surprisingly big job in a GTR..... Engine oil Front diff oil Rear diff oil Gearbox oil Transfer case fluid ATTESSA fluid Coolant Brake Fluid Clutch Fluid Power Steering /HICAS fluid Washer Fluid

In for nitznair's sponsored track day 😎

They say 05U on the side. Do you have a pic of the rods you have? The 3 just refers to journal 3 for the crank it came from.

I don't know if there is a hole on top of the boot lid under the stock spoiler (probably not, because why would there be...) but the underside of the bootlid and the rear cabin do have holes and grommets so it should all be fine. At worst you have to drill a hole in the top of the bootlid, protect the cables through it with something (eg, a short piece of rubber host) and make sure the spoiler's gakset seals properly to the boot (if not, a thin line of silastic would help)