Duncan

I'm not sure about flow direction, I think what you have marked as water feed is water return. Water feed likely comes off a second prong at the side of the thermostat housing (the other goes to heater core).

Can you post up a pic and a more specific description of the difficulty?

Yes, this is why at the front extended ball joints are the best option available for addressing bump steer, but again you just wreck the handling if you go too low anyway

Good call on the floor, we've got the same in the new garage and it's working very well for durability, oil downs etc etc even with parking the tractor on it. We also got it done professionally because I wanted it done right not DIY. Been down about 5 years, what worries me is how do I redo it later if needed....

interesting point. we need someone to pull their ethanol sensor plug out on a dyno at full noise

surely......if your ethanol % drops from say 80% to 0%, the ECU pulls timing like it was straight 98....so fails safe

well, here's your chance. If you think re-opening Wakefield is a vote changing reason, here you go: https://www.speedcafe.com/2023/01/24/nsw-opposition-leader-pledges-1-million-to-save-wakefield-park/?utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=SC Newsletter 23012023&utm_content=SC Newsletter 23012023+CID_3c15d3629f15afd835307ac42be0a895&utm_source=Campaign Monitor Personally, I don't see that it outweighs their choice to keep money laundering alive through pokies, but that's the great thing about democracy, everyone gets one opinion and 1 vote

Just looking at those pics, eg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PwHfWoNncd4N07r7FlDaaCdBCqYsqgam4Mz-bVOtxmZKg6KSyST8qYER57QnU5-PkkZqKoLJ9srx6n5XjRrQ7MvLQNuk8m9l3qY2TC4oezAo5TnzY0kX9xh3HDGyC5XLBMxgbwTS941eItVUbLz2S2pKcI9dldlhDxu9VBWWxfQJXCedzLCSO-Cs8M9Vz00MuGzEbHN3j8O5ccV3iTRzTBeMhlcVwmye6iQOJHyG33gdtxYGERryz_vsa5WNTGiZCl0sAp19diUj9TQ9K8i6VyX8dz5gWR_988DApSuTHrJIEeL10EYueto_ghIVm-Rcl6NEUbidlNrYmk6nOqYi9fCh3SrfCwfVsFQV8OQkXYHxKBgRHhRQAZr9_ejpbc6uU_B1CeyN5h5mesacy51p7eWvKbuGlCj1afovI61nqCBXsm8WKPM4PSr01Udzd6O3lBsKo3syr9g86bEkntfkZpEJjr9i14P1lFeq_IUGP-vfenEiOHMFvbRIgFEUdGTor-hMN060RYmsRRG625zzrUvjJIy8BX8IhIRfPfMfjyu8LmiEPhAtF0WZsaCNLDz7vOOYrmB8Ejdiq-NyzX0Z_fIN9LDS6ow1ZwzElLDG3tsvY2dhE6Onr5TFbN_MBaCJPcHiXtSO_Fko7jIQYxg3VX1ux-a7B7NKUXrKrjSvmkOzf0teA1eq8QYD3H66bIa28olM0MtU5vw61-z07SKIfxfLaHdWo-JFWaT9jk9xzUKa6PVuBFpABjIG0GOVaILiIex3BcQBFuvm-RuoJGQPbsbM82vpmPxfeSLwEQdjFHg6baQbhUo-R8FGofmaD9IEMiJqcwro0dtR_r2xhmpK0mOjbzq6nGN8Je6iWh2ViUj_XJav_QgcyVQaZaLqO_wLTSV2hhHSKL0CXbCbRN-X92RS9eVbeCj8K0GpIoGCQIsdSJUg6A=w958-h722-no?authuser=0 shows up for me as

I'm afraid this user is failing the Turing test

Yeah they are meant to be a press fit from factory, similar setup in later RBs too.

do you know what computer it is using (standard maybe)? what happens past 3k, does it stutter/pop (missfire) and not rev higher?

Nah, it's all poly in the back of the race car, rose joints not allowed. Also keep in mind that toe is static. Depending on how/if bump steer is set that becomes toe out under power with standard or standardish length upper front link.

Actually, I was going to suggest Dose might want to try it with 0 toe, I've preferred that in both rwd and 4wd R chassis. With rear toe in you gain stability under power but lose "responsiveness" from the rear in slower speed turns. You do need to be comfortable with the way it responds.... Also you will get more tyre wear and theoretically less power to the ground as the tyres are not pointing forward.

Yeah pineapples are a simpler and more adjustable solution than changing the subframe bushes which is a big, subframe out job. Pineapples let you change the angle of the subframe to improve (or worsen if you are a hectic drifter) the rear traction. Replacement subframe bushes might or might not have the same geometry as standard, or might also change the angle as pineapples can, it is worth checking before installing. Raising the subframe is a good way to lower the car without wrecking the roll centre geometry (back to OP's question) but space there is very tight depending on the chassis and setup (eg ATTESSA pump on top)

I'm not sure if you mentioned, but a good mechanical limited slip diff will make a big difference in a 2wd r chassis. Also, it would be worth posting up you ride height (centre of wheel to guard) front and rear and also your alignment, plus any specific issue you have noticed (turn in understeer, mid corner understeer, corner exit oversteer, instability in a straight line etc etc)

With a low use, high power car like my Stagea I go the grippiest tyre without the noise and tramlining of a semi slick. The tyre might only last 15,000klm, but you don't really notice if it takes 5 years to get there. Plus, there's no point driving round on crappy tyres and spinning wheels every time you hit boost. It is very hard to work out what a good high performance street tyre is though....every brand is happy to sell a super expensive "ultra performance" tyre, but where would you find an unbiased comparison of them?

Good on them for quick response. I don't suppose they confirmed the dash wire pin too?

Looks awesome, and welcome to SAU!

There is also a minor difference in the fuel rail, the 33 has connector mounts front and rear, 32 has 2 at the rear of the fuel rail

Yeah semi slicks have an amazing variation in width, you really have to check the actual tyre you want to use rather than go off the sidewall

For the calibration, I'd just log to get the highest voltage the signal delivers, then call that "50%". It's not like there is any real accuracy in the gauge, the value sent from the ATTESSA control unit is just an intended target, not an actual value delivered by a 30 year old, worn system.

I'm not sure that's really true, there are 4 wires shown on the diagram and its very hard to read. 2 wires are for the g meter reading and the other 2 power and earth, but I'm not sure which of those would be useful as an AVI for an ECU. I've been meaning to sort this out for mine too, so it would be good to hear from anyone who has it working

I've never seen a reliable cross reference between year/vin#/engine number. early 32 and late 32/33 engines are pretty much identical, especially by now when they all need a rebuild anyway. The only meaningful difference I can think of is the longer drive on the crank for the oil pump, but they are easily replaced if you have a short nose one

3....too soon to tell. you should get your engine builder to disassemble the engine and see if they can determine a failure reason.... 4. as the oil gets thinner bearings have less protection from touching the metal. 5/6 I am indeed talking about the round cannister under the oil filter (if the oil filter is in the standard location). Coolers are pretty much impossible to clean, I would not risk a new engine on a re-used cooler. 7. Yes, you should reverse flush the core of the turbos, and also the turbo oil feed and drain lines, as well as disassemble the oil pump to inspect and clean (probably worth replacing this depending on budget) 8. Yes, like 7 it will depend on budget but replacing water pump, timing belt, timing belt idler and pulley are all good ideas while it is apart. Same for things like cam cover, crank and rear main seals. They may all be re-usable but they are much cheaper to replace while the engine is apart than later.

I don't know either, I have swapped mine to a Deutsch DT8 connector as I had a spare which came with no connector on it. It is a pretty simple connection with 1 input and 6 outputs which are interchangeable