Duncan

Seeing a rod bearing has now failed, my money is on an underlying oil problem killing the front turbo too. I'm not sure why the noise currently goes away around 3,200 but the longer you run the engine with the problem, the more likely you are to hear it at all revs (also, the more likely something from the spun bearing will cause further damage to other bearings, cam journals, oil pump etc etc.) when a rod big end bearing is only just failing it is common for it to be OK when cold (thicker oil) and low revs (lower load on the bearing) - so noise increasing with revs and temp is a pretty sure sign of it being a big end bearing don't forget to replace all of the oil coolers when you rebuild or replace the engine, in particular the oil/water cooler under the oil filter is easy to forget and expensive. It might be worth replacing it with a unit without the cooler (eg from a stagea or r31 skyline)

Thanks, that is good information. It's pretty frustrating that Haltech aren't more public with their plans as this has been an obvious frustration since IC7 was launched. There was never an obvious reason that the dash could receive but not send on the CAN In my case for example, I didn't have any ECU inputs left for GPS speed so I had to wire it into the dash, but GPS speed is critical to help implement the 200klm (or now maybe 140klm/h) limit for rallying. I was starting to research which other ECU vendor I should move to as a result, Haltech could have saved us both some trouble by saying this was on the roadmap

If you are sure you have a problem, what you need to do is cut and reweld the inner arm mounts (upper and lower) on the subframe to be higher by the desired amount (eg 10 or 20mm, or adjustable). I guess there would be weld on kits these days or you could do it custom. If you are running the car low enough to have a roll centre problem on a street/track car, you are running the car way too low for practical use. I guess it could be a problem if you have a dedicated superlap car or similar Best place to start for handling is to post up your ride heights and alignment settings. The factory geometry is pretty reasonable for most use.

Before we get too far down this hole, what are you looking for? As I said in that other thread.... The unfortunate reality is that no budget to modify a non turbo car will result in no improvement (mostly likely outcome will be less power, rough running and bad fuel economy) Basically, the bang for bucks with a non turbo car built as a bottom of the range model is going to be terrible.

Well, the good news is that 600hp is more like mildly modified these days, so if it has been done properly it should last a while. Details of what has been changed (and what hasn't, and how many klm) might help provide specific guidance

Definitely a Cima. Very cool, very safe, very reliable. Used to be you could get a R32 GTST for that budget, not so much any more

Any hints about what car you have, and what, if anything, you've done to it? What you are describing is quite common and normal in a Lada.

Yes, there are other things that go roundy round that could cause an issue but I'm about 99% sure. As you said in first post that direct advice is hard to get locally you could catch some oil from the drain plug and get it analysed to confirm, the amount of bearing inclusions from a spun bearing will be immediately obvious

Sorry, but that sounds exactly like a spun rod bearing to me, particularly because it starts/increases with revs. If so, every revolution the engine does is doing more damage

Cams are unlikely to be a practical answer with no budget. You will need a custom cam ($1k) plus a tuned ECU ($1-2k) and still probably the intake and exhaust mods ($2-3k) The unfortunate reality is that no budget to modify a non turbo car will result in no improvement (mostly likely outcome will be less power, rough running and bad fuel economy)

rather than worrying too much about cams, what are you trying to achieve and what sort of budget do you have? you can potentially increase power 4-8% by a freeer flowing intake and exhaust for under $5k

testing the motor is pretty simple, there will be a 2 wire plug that goes to it. Apply 12v (eg from a battery) and it will go down with the wires one way around, and up with wires the other.

I always thought 6,000rpm was when boost was meant to arrive, not when revs run out?

According to Real Dash Is it possible to add support for my favourite ECU? In theory, any ECU that is capable of sending serial (USB, Bluetooth, WiFi) data can be made compatible with RealDash. Another option is to use CAN-Serial adapter, like SPLeinonen's DashBox. They have a very long list of ECU specific forums here: https://www.realdash.net/forum/, but basically any OBD2, Nissan Consult, Link, Haltech etc etc

same with the body style, that depends what whoever filled in the first blue slip form ticked....they didn't always care enough to get it right. You can get the same issue with any rego details, our March is registered as a "NISSAN 00CAR" there was a period when the compliance date was treated as the manufacturing date on rego papers as the complier took responsibility for "remanufacturing" the car to meet australian rules. lots of older imports will have that issue

the answers were here, they just didn't seem likely. I'm surprised the shaft was such a good screw pump

Awesome thread, great to see

Well the immobiliser box is basically just a receiver for the key fob and a set of relays to immobilise circuits like ECU power, fuel pump, ignition (whatever the installer chooses really). generally the wires in and out are all coloured black to make it hard to bypass (but also hard to troubleshoot). you might be able to trace the wires to where the original wires were cut and redirected via the unit to temporarily bypass it. I'd be looking for the IGN signal to ECU as it seems the ECU is not turning on (pin 45).

don't know if you saw, but he bought a BMW, wouldn't be worth it to fix professionally. I reckon do the same as Marty did on Kel's march super turbo; just get a vaguely similar colour spray can and shoot in the general direction

funny that 9 years is "old" for a modern euro car, they were sure built to last for a planned period and then be replaced by a new one. I'd stay the hell away from anything outside warranty, it would be a quick way to burn money when your $40k second hand car needs to be thrown away.

You can still work out the original paint code from the physical stamp in the chassis on the firewall ER34-xxxxxx and the link posted above, assuming it was not repainted. If it was, this should be a pretty common requirement for you painter to work this out anyway

Nice, there's never a bad time to buy new tools. Have you go someone local to TIG the BOV back onto the new pipe?

Ignition switch is pretty easy to test too. unplug it and identify battery 12v terminal. Then test continuity to other pins when switch is OFF (none), ACC (ACC continuity), IGN (IGN and ACC), Start (IGN and Start). There are also a series of fuses and relays at driver's knee in that fuse box, since windows are not working that's where I'd try after checking the switch. I haven't often heard of the key switch failing

You need to check the ECCS relay near the ECU is turning on when ignition does. Pin 58 should always have battery voltage, but pins 49,59,109 are controlled by the ECCS relay which is what needs to be powered to turn the ECU on fully. Pin 18 (fuel pump relay signal) should earth for about 3 seconds when you turn the key to ignition to prime the fuel pump, and should always be earthed when the engine is running.

But, why were you checking in the first place? The IGN 12v at the boost control solenoid (terminal 1) also feeds a heap of other locations like the PCV, were you trying to sort a problem or just wondering? The wiring from the ECU to the boost control solenoid is fine for use with a aftermarket ECU and solenoid if required (change the plug at the solenoid end to suit)