Duncan

They kind of show it in the diagram, terminal 1 is the vertical part of the T and 2 is the horizontal/perpendicular. But, why do you want to know? That Pin 1 should have power at all times when IGN is on, terminal 2 is pulsed by the ECU to control boost (ground signal)

C34 can work as a tow car, I used one for years although it did have an rb30det and heavier rear shocks and springs. M35 is not such a great choice, they have a habit of cracking the rear subframe with moderate to heavy loads on them. BTW how did you get a single axle trailer rated to tow 1200kg car + the trailer's own weight. That is very heavy for a single axle.

Probably best to change that ECU early unless you are certain the mines ECU is safe. I don't know how available high octane fuel is where you are, but the Mines ECU generally expect 100RON and won't have much margin for safety

Glad to hear it is sorted

before you pop another fuse or 10, check if there is continuity between earth and the fuse socket. If there is, you need to trace through that loom and find the massive short. You didn't just get 2 unlucky bad fuses all of a sudden. Edit, on second check it is clear that the positive wire's terminal is touching the alternator body in your pic. You don't really need an insulating washer, just screw the existing nut down to the body (tight but not overtight) then fit the ring terminal, then another nut to hold the terminal. That will keep the terminal well off the body. And yes, adding a boot is good practice anyway, it will stop big sparks if you are working in that area without the battery disconnected and accidentally touch the terminal and anything else with a tool

well, yes the alternator is the easiest place to get that wrong; check the wire with continuity to battery + is on the alternator + and the alternator earth is correctly to chassis earth

It is almost certainly better to get something aftermarket, unless you have a reasonably priced HKS dealer/tuner nearby. The HKS ECU was a worthwhile thing in the day (ie about 30 years ago). If you don't have that friendly HKS dealer nearby you are in for a world of pain with that setup

True, but OP doesn't have one of those heads sitting in the engine bay

sorry, misleading extra word "solenoid" in my sentence "It would be worth tracing the wastegate boost reference source too" Sounds like the wastegates are connected directly to the post throttle source, so it should just be running wastegate pressure on the turbos. On standard that is about 12psi, if these are -5 they are more likely to have come with 14psi wastegates or 7. Apparently the boost is pretty lazy when hooked up that way, normally the boost controller holds the pressure low until near the target boost level

either car will be worth more unmodified, with it's original engine. The skyline world has changed a lot in the last 5 years. I don't think an rb26 swap into a 33 gtst is a good choice....very expensive way to go compared to just building an rb25 that does whatever you want it to do. If you want to change something an rb30 is a better starting place, with rb25 head on it.

You might want to consider a aftermarket ECU depending on the price for genuine, there are plug in, plug in with adapter or wire in options. While you would need to tune it, you get a lot of future proofing that way.

It would be worth tracing the wastegate solenoid boost reference source too.

It looks like a factory plug, has to be for a spoiler mounted brake light. You can check with a multimeter or test light, you should get 12v between them with the brake pressed (and not otherwise)

Looks nicely sorted for grip

Yeah, if you could even find a second hand one....great to see businesses putting together aftermarket options where the factory stuff is not available or is showing it's age.

It is not that simple in cases other than oil pressure....I've got no issue letting the engine run hotter than a pre-defined threshold for a period of time, I've had water temp over 130o without permanent damage. Another specific case....I once spun a bearing at the last corner at Wakie on the last lap in the lead, and you bet I continued to the finish line.... I sure own a laptop, but I don't chuck it every car every time I go for a drive..... Yes, that is the realdash setup I posted above from my Stagea. That can show any parameter from the ECU CAN on the head unit via the Real Dash app.

Agreed....and change your fuel filter too incase something was dislodged while you were changing the pump

This is where Power FC kills all these modern ECUs where expensive add ons are required for less functions (eg, no tuning without a laptop plugged in) I've got one of those CAN gauges too (original not haltech branded) and while it is a useful compromise in terms of what it can display if you are troubleshooting a problem, it is only really readable while driving in the 1 gauge per page mode (it can display up to 4 per page), has no colours / warning colour change / peak hold or display etc. And while I agree engine protection like Haltech runs is a good safety net, the problem is you have no idea why it triggers unless you have some sort of external displays too. And for racing use it is essential but also an absolute pain in the arse because you have to turn the whole car off to get it running again, and you still don't know what the issue was until you plug a laptop in at the end of the race or at service. Better systems would let you setup warnings for things which are not instant engine death so you can decide whether to keep going or not; for example a coolant temp warning at say 120o that you could choose to ignore if you were within a klm of the stage finish.

Sounds like a hell of a fortnight, well done getting through it and taking the win! It's great to have a team of people behind you to get it to the track and fix it when you are there as well, that makes all the difference in getting results.

Hi Darcy, welcome to the forums. Can you clarify what you are missing? maybe a pic? do you have the shifter rod in the console without a knob on the top? Your profile doesn't say where you are so it is difficult to recommend where to find one if that is what you need.

I agree. I find it weird that so many racing people and fans seem to prefer making noise over racing. If making noise is the priority, buy a nice set of headphones. Noting Kel and I have raced electric cars, if I have to choose between racing quietly or making noise and not racing, I'll take quietly every time.

Yeah good point, physical buttons look like a down side because they take up screen space, but in practice they are much easier to use when you are driving. They also had a steering wheel control option that I didn't go with, I have wheel buttons on the titan and fuga and while I do use them it's not such a big deal to go to the head unit I went with a 7" double din in this case because of the available space, but they do have larger floating/tablet styles ones and ones with volume dials instead of buttons too

Once all that was sorted, it was on to displaying the Link data on the head unit using Real Dash. Physically, that is pretty straightforward. In my case I had to add a cable to CAN2 in the ECU because CAN 1 was already set up for other uses (WB02 and the old CAN gauge). The Link tuning USB cable does not work on G4X plug ins, and apparently ODB is noticeably slow to update, so you need to use a CAN/USB adapter like this one: https://www.seeedstudio.com/USB-CAN-Analyzer-p-2888.html I bought it directly from them, fast shipping from China, no hassles. I made up a small piggyback loom for the CAN using a DTM4 plug so that it is still available for future use and plugged it in. That was pretty straight forward, although I did have CAN Hi and Lo around the wrong way at the Seeed at first which threw me. Correct wiring is Hi White, Lo Green and Black earth (apparently earth may not be necessary but I already had + and - in the CAN wiring so I connected it). From there, just plug the adapter into the Link CAN and the USB into a head unit USB and it is physically good to go. There is an excellent video on the Link forums about how to configure the connection, it is a bit fiddly. https://forums.linkecu.com/topic/8637-introducing-realdash-a-dashboard-app-for-android-windows/ Note, you have to be logged in to see the video attached in the first post. After everything there was followed I got a connection between the Link and Real Dash and it was OK to display all data. I used a slightly modified XML file which I'll attach here once I work out how. The main issue with the delivered Transmit DASH2PRO is the Manifold Gauge Pressure is incorrectly labelled Manifold Absolute Pressure, and it is in Bar not PSI which is not my preference so that XML file fixes that. Finished install is simple (and I can see my AC controls for the first time in 15 years), all the bits and screens are replaced by the double din unit Some pics of the Real Dash (terrible reflections). It is pretty clunky to modify but with some small changes a couple of the delivered or low cost dash boards are working for me for now. There are a bunch of much fancier dash layouts depending what you are after, but I am looking for the data displays not just a simple speedo/tacho sort of thing.

Physical install was very straight forward. The stagea already had an ISO adapter on it's harness from the Parrot install, so that part was literally just unplug and replug. The box included ISO to head unit and an option of wire in pigtails to the head unit if you don't have ISO plugs in place. I did earth the handbrake input, but later found there is an option in the software to prevent watching video while driving that you can turn off, so that was not necessary. Front Camera was simple, that is a single USB cable from the dash to the head unit. 4g and Wifi antennas are just on the left and right side of the dash near the windscreen vents and the GPS receiver I stuck on top of the clock in the middle of the dash. All pretty straightforward if a bit time consuming. The reverse camera was more of a pain and I'm not sure where I went wrong. Mounting the camera is a hassle in the stagea because the location is a reasonably thick plastic panel with no real access behind, so nut + bolt was not an option. I tried to rivnut it but thick, soft plastic won't let a rivnut grip so I ended up using self tappers to hold the camera in place. Also, running the wire is a bit of a pain in a long car with brittle plastic trims so that took some stuffing around. Then, the camera would not turn on when I put the car in reverse, even though I had tapped the reverse lights into the supplied loom. When I applied 12v to that wire at the head unit it did turn on the reverse camera so the issue was in the supplied loom to the rear of the car somewhere. In the end I rewired that to the Reverse globe signal on the dash and everything worked OK. Next issue, the 4G would not connect. I don't know if it is an Telstra sim only issue but the APN settings in the head unit were incorrect which prevented connection, and even better the software doesn't let you fix them directly. I had to download an APN editing app to fix that, once I had I got good, stable 4g connection. Final install issue, the tyre pressure monitoring would not work most of the time. That is still not fixed, a new receiver is on the way from China. Overall it was a pretty straightforward install, a little patience required for all the internal wiring. The ATOTO customer service was excellent with responses within 24 hours and lots of support to resolve those issues so that is no concern. Lots of bits and pieces removed (no, the doors are not related), but old head unit, bluetooth, EJ1, reverse cam etc all replaced by the new head unit

So after an odd shouty thread in the audio forum about the Xanavi head unit conversions to English like I did in the Fuga, I got to wondering if an Android head unit could be a better way to go and replace all of the above. I did a little research and decided on an ATOTO S8 Gen2 double din unit. Key things for me, it included: Bluetooth/handsfree calling HD rear view camera Forward facing camera 4g modem and Wifi built in (don't buy an Android head unit without data capability, it is pretty useless or at least inconvenient) Tyre Pressure monitoring Apps can be installed (this is a big one for the expensive head units from name brands, most of them are locked down to their choice of Apps which is pretty anti-Android). Sat nav etc are just like on a phone, I use Tom Tom app Music player from SD car Split screen apps, for example half sat nav and half music player It does do other stuff that you might care about like Android auto but I hate how that cripples the phone when it is on I went with this one, https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003652806817.html cost about $1000 including all the add ons and shipping was much quicker than quoted, about 7 days. Be aware the local sellers of these units don't know much about the spec, and you have to buy the "A" model for Australian 4G bands, particularly Telstra 4GX (Band 28) which is what most rural coverage uses. If you get the "N" model you won't get decent service locally.