Duncan

Great to hear they are firing up the castings!

Connect a CAN analyser to the Link CAN and then connect that to the Android head unit by USB. I'll post up more details in the Stagea's thread when I get time over the break, a couple of things have been a pain https://www.seeedstudio.com/USB-CAN-Analyzer-p-2888.html

Good detail! So do you need the central locking key, the immobiliser fob, or both? The key is a standard nissan thing from the period so just pick up a blank one that looks the same of ebay and get it cut to suit and coded at the same time (just need someone who can do late model nissans, the process is all the same). If you need the fob, that is a question for the autowatch dealer to supply and code

When trying to restart warm, is it cranking at full speed or slower? Could just be a starter motor issue, I just changed the one in the Stagea and realised how slow it had been cranking compared to normal

When you say "personal import" do you mean you are aware of all the importing steps and no-one added the transponder in Australia? We had a fob like that on our old Cube which was for an immobiliser installed by the importer (Just Jap) If you are certain that fob was on the keys in Japan then it is a bit trickier to find someone local who can help. In any case, if you want a single fob to remote central lock and immobilise, what you need is a competent local installer to put a new system in as your current remote central locking is on the key and the immobiliser is a separate system on the fob

Yes that is possible, I've had an ignitor fail when hot and cause a missfire. May not be easy to find a good one to swap in though

33 got downspecced from 32 in steering reach adjust (and looks of course) I guess you are meant to recline your seatback further, but that is a bit crap, particularly if not comfortable. I think those adapters are pretty good value considering they need 2 different splined sections

well, FWIW that is the size that the GKtech adapter is designed for (134-143). I was going to say I have one for half price but looks like they are on sale for $19 atm anyway. However, taking into account the feedback above on aftermarket couplings (I've got no experience with them, but surprised if they don't work out of the box) and I saw something about the Dayco coupling fouling on the GKTech adapter...it might be best just to go OEM After all, we know you are keeping this car for 20 years and continuing to say how you want to sell it and buy the new BMW electric hover m2 instead.

ha, don't try and bait me, you know the Leyland is the coolest piece of gear around.

This is the r32 wiring (I don't have the r33 one handy), but likely the same or similar. The diagram is not clear that ECU pin 9 to pressure switch is +, but it later states that. So, to move AC to a PDM control just output the AC signal on pin 9 as standard, and run your PDM output to the AC relay, the you keep the pressure switch input to stop it trying to overfill. Alternatively it you really don't want the relay you need to connect the pressure switch to ground on one side and a spare DPI on the other. Then connect the PDM output to the compressor directly. Then setup the ECU to use that DPI as a condition to turn on the AC output. Keep in mind that is only half the AC control. The other half depends on what the climate control is set at.

The AAC needs to bypass the throttle, that is it's purpose. I have a FFP in the stagea, it takes air pre throttle from the intercooler piping (yes, underneath, not visible from above) and puts it back in via one of the large nipples under the plenum. The FFP I have also has a specific mount for the AAC underneath, and in my case it the hose from the intercooler pipe then continues to the factory IACV which also connects to the plenum post throttle. Drive by wire is a better solution these days as you don't need an AAC or IACV but you might want to stick with them for budget reasons as I did

If the old sensor was connected and the ECU configured and tuned you don't need to do anything except the physical connection, if the new sensor and old sensor have the same calibration. If the calibrations are different, you need to load that into the ECU If the old sensor was never connected, configured or tuned, you need to go to a tuner who knows the ECU and has a dyno to get it set up properly

Good work, and thanks for posting up part# for the next person who needs them We just need an update after you fit them to confirm they were right

There's definitely no developer-led conspiracy here. The land wakie is on was actually sold by Pelican for the track in the first place, and younger members of the family still race there occasionally. The biggest thing happening in that area is large scale solar farms which I can guarantee are causing more angst to the locals that wakie ever did. Perhaps if we can surround the track with 10klm of solar farms there will be no people close enough to hear it

(coffee hasn't kicked in yet) Also, once if the test does confirm combustion gas, you should simply retorque the head bolts before pulling anything apart

Sorry, I should add, you can get the radiator pressure tested, and tested for combustion gases to confirm if it is a head gasket before pulling anything apart

Doesn't matter who built it or how much you paid, no-one is going to give you a soup to nuts warranty on a modified car build. Sucks, but I learned that the hard way over the years so I gave up and started doing most things myself, at least then I'm not surprised by the bad workmanship

Welcome to SAU, and great to see the car

R series skyline - check Engine bay cleaned with a toothbrush - check 30 years old - check yep, it's ready to be shipped off to USA for about $800k

Wow, that came up ALL WHITE! AHAHHAHAHAAA HAHAH AHAHAHHHAH

Great news, 28,950 signatures have made......no difference at all. Parliament refused to debate the petition despite have met the 20,000 minimum requirement because it was within a couple of month of Christmas and they didn't have time. Instead, the minister for planning said (excerpt) Full response is here: https://www.parliament.nsw.gov.au/tp/files/83781/Petition Response - Roberts - Save Wakefield Park.pdf

can you measure the PCD for the fan and the coupling? I just went through this on the stagea and have a GKTech adapter I can't use that might fix your problem

I've been meaning to post here all week, basically I just wanted to say HOW f**kING AWESOME IT IS TO SEE CHERYL GETTING SOME LOVE AT LAST. See you and her at a track soon mate. PS f**k Zoe. For all her swoopy curves, she is no Nissan.

You can use it, you just shouldn't as Link state and djr81 posted up for you It is electrically compatible but way too slow to react for proper tuning of quick load changes. You aren't driving a cheap shitter of a car and an engine rebuild would be a substantial cost. $150 for the correct sensor is good value

Good researching, the only thing I'd add to all that is that shipping time may be a bigger issue for you than saving $50 on purchase price....I'd check that out with each seller before ordering as some of them are taking months for deliveries at the moment. If you are in a rush, another option is contact someone like Jesse Streeter who will buy it from a japanese nissan dealer directly at a good price and ship via EMS. I've received stuff within days instead of months that way