Duncan

Well, if @Neil sees this thread he might be able to take some pics from his car in this area. I can't remember how much factory wiring we removed from the race car but not much from memory. Or admS15 might be able to get at that space to confirm too, depending how much interior that car has in. It is possible/likely that the ABS plug is in an non-ABS car. Somewhere between 0-99% of the ABS wiring will be in a non-ABS car because otherwise Nissan has to have multiple different looms depending on the spec of the car. As for the cut wires and missing relay, you need to start with the ECU pinout and check which wires they are, either with a multimeter or tracing it by hand. The standard ECU can run without that relay (if you rewire it to IGN power) but it will stop aftermarket ECUs like PowerFC working correctly as they use that relay to save data before turning themselves off when the key is moved back from IGN to ACC. We never got to the bottom of why, but there are some minor differences between S1 and S2 GTSt wiring. For the fuel pump, there is an ECU pin (18 I think) that earths when the pump should run (ie couple of seconds to prime when the key is turned to IGN, and any time the engine is running). Ignore all the other factory wiring and connect that pin to the earth side of a suitable relay's coil (relay size depending on what pump you are using, or if you have a big setup it might be a solid state relay), then hook the + of the relay coil and one side of the relay switch to a fused wire to the battery. The other side of the relay switch goes to fuel pump +. 30A is heaps for the standard pump or most basic aftermarket pumps Finally, re the security system, great idea to get rid of it if you don't have confidence it was wired well as they can become flaky over time. You really need to spend some quality time under the dash if you are, an immobiliser is just a big set of relays that cut key wires like fuel pump or IGN. Generally you can find which wires have been re-routed into the alarm, and reconnect them in the factory loom by matching colours where they were originally cut. Keep in mind the car is easily stolen without an immobiliser though.

I'd give Haltech a call. Their support for old ECUs is terrible but they seem to keep a good library of old IP.

lol driving into the lion's den! sounds like you should have bought a nissan v8 not a holden. Cima came with active engine mounts so as not to trouble Japanese execs with such things.

Firstly, you have a pretty rare spec there for a non-ABS s2, I'm only aware of one other in Aus. I am99% sure that the ignition and ECU relay are in the engine loom near the ECU connector, so that's why you are not finding them. Their connection to the body loom is pretty straightforward with a battery power feed via the engine bay loom and a start signal via one of those connectors you are holding from the dash loom.

I kind of disagree with that; if the car is currently idling fine then it is fine. You could do a compression test to check but most likely there will be no issue. In practice, if you floor it with no load axis, you will go past the (very narrow) window where it might ping and straight into the engine can't fire at all (ie missfire). We often hit that narrow window when tuning because it is such a precise process and we are looking for the maximum timing the engine can take (in most cases), but when you are miles outside the window like this it just doesn't run at all

Generally with a weird problem like this I'd just wait for GTSBoy to post up

So basically there is a short circuit in your wiring downstream of that big fusible link, and if you can get a battery terminal to smoke it is big enough to burn your car down. I'm not familiar at all with the 31 battery wiring so I can't suggest specifically, but you need to start pulling apart wherever that link goes (eg into a big fuse box of some sort and have a look for any sign of burning and/or very exposed wires. If you have a multimeter and it goes to a fuse box, you can pull each fuse and check if the socket has continuity to ground, but as you are blowing the big fuse not a small one first, it is most likely between the big fusible link and wherever that starts splitting out. BTW, double check there is no chance your battery terminals are around the wrong way, that might do this....

We're pretty far off track here, but 2006 was far more neons under the car, high wings and shopping list of brands down the driver's door seam

FWIW, the GTW whatever the hell I have on the stagea sounds like an angry owl coming on and has hectic dose. I love dose. And the noise the turbo makes without a BOV too.

Street use? This is Realdash in the stagea (horrible reflections but your get the idea) on an android head unit. Much easier to read than the pic implies different screens and skins available, can display whatever you have in the ECU (makes more sense to attach a sender to the ECU than have a sender for a dedicated physical gauge) In the Fuga I have a plug and play Greddy Informeter mounted next to the screen Race car I use IQ3 for data logging and driver display and IC7 for driver/nav functions. I can't find any pics handy but the IQ3 is on the steering column partially obscuring the stock dash (which I kept for speedo, torque gauge and warning lights and the IC7 is mounted in front of the centre vents which are inop in the race car. Obviously the IQ3 has a logging function and analysis software which is super useful for race/rally

Welcome on board, it's been a while since we had a joiner from Australia....

I don't know....but I do like how you think

Well, if the MAP is disconnected from the intake, the ECU will think it is getting exactly atmospheric pressure....no vacuum with open throttle off boost and no extra air on boost. so yeah, it can probably idle and run OK at light throttle/low revs. But beyond that if you are pulling say 15psi vacuum (I know that is not valid BTW) at 2000 rpm with throttle wide open it will be running mega rich and might foul plugs, missfire or stall because it is getting way less air than it thinks. Conversely, if you manage to get it onto boost somehow it will be getting way more air than it knows and this is a big problem, like GTSBoy said you could ping it to death. BTW, air flow meter cars are the same to some extent. An unplugged AFM will probably allow a car to start and idle but anything more than than very light throttle it will have too much air compared to ECU expectation and stall

Didn't they remove him in a violin case (#yesitreallyhappened) Anyway, those cars look nothing alike, one is white and one is silver. It is nissan who keep copying camrys. 1990s camry wagon mid 2010s camry hybrid sedan

I don't want to take away from the recommendation that you start with a suitable fuel pump, but I will add that there have been plenty of cars that have lost hundreds of horsepower between the japanese seller's dyno chart and what happens the first time you run it on a dyno yourself.....dodgy middle people are not limited to a single country. As stated earlier, japanese workshops naturally led the way in tuning these cars in the 90s and early naughties but that really has changed since. Messing with a small pump but pushing up base fuel pressure is a dangerous way to tune a car compared to just fitting a correctly sized pump and tuning to standard pressure. In particular it affects injector spray pattern and increases risk of a lean out when you are pushing the whole system right to it's limits. I'm not aware of complete coverage of the fuel system; B6 in the R32 GTR manual is pretty brief and doesn't cover the venting at all. There is information on the main hoses in and out though.

I just re-read the first post, it is a NEO so nistune may well be an option (noting that taking the existing ECU out and sending it to be modified might not be convenient compared to a bolt in replacement like PFC)

Spain is very fortunate then I'm not a nistune specialist, but I'm pretty sure rb25det ECU is not supported. PowerFC is cheap, easy to tune and suitable

you didn't engage the pull fork correctly after the gearbox was reattached to the engine. pull gearboxes suck

Unfortunately, an rb25 in a GQ is never going to be a vw polo, an m3 or some other fuel efficient, error light showing shitbox. Couple of things - the ECU will try and run closed loop based on your o2 sensor in most idle and light throttle conditions. That screenshot shows you are running rich (although, we can't tell from one point if it moves around). Basically, your narrow band o2 manages most fuel economy and should rapidly fluctuate above and below 14.7 - a standard ECU with a bigger turbo will go super rich with mid to full throttle first up, put in a working 02 sensor (can be a standard narrowband, or wire the narrowband output of your wideband to the ECU), and switch to a PowerFC, and get a quick tidy up tune. That will get you 95% as good as you ever will with a little 80s turbo engine in a heavy 4wd at minimal cost. Nistune could also work if you can find a suitable donor ECU. BTW, it could be much worse, I have a td42 in my gu and it both makes no power AND uses way too much fuel. On the bright side it will keep running well into the apocalypse

assuming it is actually your car, rather than you are just looking for tips to steal it.. .....I'd always suggest having a spare in a safe place if you have an immobiliser in a car

who made the undertray? obviously the main shape is pretty simple but looks like it has a large 90 bend too which is not so easy to do neatly in the shed

It's way off topic by now, but I have to agree the quality of engineering went way down hill. The level of additional power you can make without breaking things and the general reliability under heavy use like racing of the standard parts in R chassis is very unusual. But it did have to change, Nissan was loosing money on every car they made which is never going to last

Yep r34 console is a direct bolt in fit Only exception is I had to move the G sensor due to a different cupholder location in the console. It is still under there but behind the handbrake now

Hope it was a bargain if you bought it smoking. BTW confirmed, nissan grade rb pistons and choose the closest fit for the bore. Certainly not blueprinting but it is at least better than always just using the same size. the RB26 grades are listed on EN101 of the workshop manual (they had grades for big end and main bearings too. Of course none of that matters now you are rebuilding it, just get it measured to confirm what size pistons you need (standard or oversize) BTW you need to check the bearings and rod bolts too, detonation is hard on the whole rotating assembly. Your engine shop should be able to confirm

Great choice :thumbsup:, glad it is sorted