Duncan

Does the current owner have a dyno graph? It is a bit of an old school setup but probably around 400 rwkw. Where is the 100m wood installed?

jeebus. so the new bracket is plastic? seems like a great solution if it is thick enough to last long term, can the files for the bracket be shared for other?

That is awesome news. Now if only someone would make front guards.

Should-a stuck with twins....

As always, it depends how much you change at the same time as getting it fixed. But, I think GTSBoy was referring to any part of the car going pop, not just the gearbox, they are far from new these days.

well, for what it's worth, PWR seems to stand for "Probably Wrong Radiator"

lol remember when gearboxes were cheap and plentiful?

ECU really comes down to tuner preference, the general features are the same. Link will give you move $ for $ than Haltech but that is only a small part of the total cost. No idea which cylinder knocks first, although legend has it #6 might in an rb26 due to plenum design (more air at the rear)

It's not clear which one you are after from the pic, but aftermarket silicone will last better https://justjap.com/products/cooling-pro-silicone-intercooler-hose-kit-nissan-gtr-stagea-260rs-rb26dett

I had the carpet out of the footwell in the stagea yesterday, some aftermarket wires ran across the passenger floor and they had melted into the sound deadener/tar over the years....

"well, there's your problem"! pretty sure that counts as a major boost leak. You need to stay off boost until it is fixed, because your turbos will be making eleventy boost at the turbos

My understanding is R34 GTT is the only r chassis where the seats don't interchange with other models. You need replacement R34 GTT seats, or aftermarket seats with rails to suit R34 GTT only

Totally agree....life of the engine will depend on treatment, maintenance and dumb luck due to the tolerances involved. You can expect trouble very early for any manufacturing/assembly issues, then anywhere between 150,000-500,000 for life issues. Also worth noting that a properly rebuilt engine (rings, bearings, seals and correct tolerances) resets those estimates, so if you really like the car it is a valid option

Unfortunately replacing rings is an engine out rebuild, you would do bearings and seals at the same time, likely cost 5-10k. Before you did that you would do a compression test to confirm it was rings not something in the head, and unless the car is running terrible you would almost certainly just live with it and top the oil up between changes. Another possible (more likely) reason for burning a bit of oil on a mid age engine modern engine is the valve stem steals leaking. You would generally notice that most the longer since you last ran the car, it would burn a bit of oil as it first warms up then you probably wouldn't notice it after that. As with rings, you would probably just live with it; it is possible to fix in the car with a bit of fiddling but it would still be a big job. I've previously improved but not fixed older valve stem seals using an oil additive like this https://www.liquimoly.com.au/2782-engine-oil-resealer

Ha! No skylines are poverty spec any more

There are different setups in different r chassis cars. R32 GTR (and 33 I think) has 3 ball joints at the front as described above. Someone might be able to link you a 33 GTST service manual, I don't have that

Pretty sure it is "normal". Not shoe meltingly warm but there is a noticeable warmth from the transmission and exhaust, particularly on the passenger side in these cars. Our stagea is the same On long runs on hot days, without internal sound deadener, it has been shoe meltingly hot in the race car on the nav side

OK, so firstly, RBs do not sit parallel to the ground in their engine bay. I don't have an rb25 in an r33 handy to check what angle that combo sits at. A possibility is that you have the brackets on the wrong side? Secondly, I'm not sure it matters but the the mount brackets look like rb20 not rb25. rb25 look like https://www.jdmgarage.com.au/shop/engine/engine-accessories/engine-crossmembers-and-mounts/rb25-engine-brackets-pair/. Also note the mounts you are using don't have 2 studs at the subframe end but I guess that is your choice

I'm surprised you can hear a properly tensioned timing belt over the fan and injectors, gates or not. I run the gates one in the race car and can't hear it at all. Obviously they would get noisier between the belt and idler/tensioner bearings if over tensioned

I don't have direct experience with that. I can say on my HICAS stagea that stock R34 GTR wheels (18x9 +30) stick out about 10mm so your 18x9+25 must be very flush or already sticking out a little. They do tuck into the guards under load if that is your concern without extra camber required. Unless I can't use calculators, 18x10.5 +20 will sit 20mm further out than current, so you are going to need hilux flares unless you are going for the pokie outie look. No idea how the inner clearance is, seems like it would be OK (14mm less than your current, so you could get under and check) I use this site for offset calcs https://tiresize.com/wheel-offset-calculator/

Great to hear you got the immobiliser out and are able to start the car now, and I'd have to say what you had under there is typical of many quick/cheap alarm installs I've seen over the years - no wonder they are causing problems 20 years down the track

Yeah I wasn't able to get 285/35 to fit on 18x10+20 either, I am running 285/30 as well

Hi Sam, congrats on the purchase. Unfortunately 18x10.5 don't fit properly on the front. You might get away with removing the guard liners and using undersized "stretched" tyres. 18x10 +15 to + 22 fit OK The Enkies are not particularly strong wheels and you will find examples of broken ones as well. These days a GTR deserves quality wheels that fit properly.

And if you move the injector to another cylinder, does the missfire move as well? In any case, since you have factory ECU you need either factory injectors or aftermarket drop in replacement of the same flow rate. Also you may find it hard to buy single injectors they generally come in a set

Well, these days most of their presence is parts (from both Japan and China), but historically they are an importer and broker. They also do and support a lot of racing (not mine sadly!) so they have plenty of real world experience