Duncan

Cam front seals.

Yeah just double checked a crank I have, that is the factory crank big end and main gradings. Details of the factory grades are on EN101 of the r32 manual. They are of no relevance 30 years later of course

Highly unlikely to be a hydraulic issue, even before bleeding it, your first vid clearly shows the slave cylinder working correctly. Also, the fact that you can get 5 forward gears at idle but not reverse is consistent with the clutch not disengaging From there it gets trickier, my guess is you have some problem with the throw out bearing or carrier's height. From the side by side pic the bearings seem to have a very different height (and so does the pivot ball but I'm not sure what effect that will have). I've never had to sort this myself, maybe someone else here can suggest how to check the engagement/bearing height is correct

I take it that it just crunches if you try and put it in gear with foot on clutch? Have you taken it for a drive to see if it changes without the clutch (with correct revs)? Well, you can start by confirming the slave cylinder is moving the fork properly, it should move a cm or 2 when you put foot on the clutch. From there you kind of need to know what's happening in the bellhousing. Is the fork clipped into the thrust bearing OK (assuming this is a push clutch) and is it also clipped onto the pivot ball OK? If all that is right, it might be the wrong height carrier/thrust bearing.

yeah you'll just have to check it. unknown shop could have done anything

Agreed, but to continue a bit off topic that is why you would generally use a mechanical not quaife in the rear. Even then, how you approach a corner and suspension setup makes a big difference, and any loss of traction in those circumstances like curb hopping is very temporary

The quaife/wheel lifting thing isn't an issue in a GTR, even with rally or circuit use. Any single wheel is not off the ground long enough for it to have any meaningful impact and ATTESSA always has at least 50% power at the rear anyway so you never get caught out by this. I think the whole "helical diffs have an issue with a wheel off the ground" comes from the 4wd/off road world where it is a big problem; in that case you can be totally stuck if the wheel off the ground on a given axle gets all the power. In that case you really need a switchable locker

Actually, here is the original website. https://www.mearcat.com.au/stagea.html I spoke to the original supplier a few years back and they confirmed they were no longer making them, so there should be no issues

Exactly. Drill an 80mm hole and mount gauges there. They also made a single gauge holder which was a little more elegent

And, I don't know if I am the only one with this issue, but the plastic handles in the cargo area that pull on the rear seat release have both broken in my car. RHS is from Nissan, LHS is available for now at around $110AUD but only as a complete assembly including cable. I'd be on a couple of those (even better if they were reinforced compared to factory) like a seagull on a chip

These were once available, but no longer. Gauge pods designed to mount where the factory clock is. Not necessarily saying an identical design, but they were a great idea.

Great looking product, good to see someone stepping in to make things not readily available from nissan

To answer your questions backwards, a GTR box is a GTS4 box. I don't know the wiring differences and I haven't looked at it personally, but GTSBoy put up detailed wiring diagrams here: Top left of diagram 1 shows in Auto cars the start wire from the ignition switch goes via the inhibitor switch and then to the starter motor. I don't know where it is or what it looks like, but you need to bypass that. Given the diagram doesn't show any other wires involved from the gearbox, I guess it might be at the auto trans shifter. I can't work out the reverse lights at a quick look, but I think you need to use the reverse switch on the manual gearbox as the trigger so wiring changes will be needed unless the auto also had a reverse switch. Neutral switch should not be required. None of that is ECU related, so swapping ECU will not help

solid advice, because that is a very real possibility at this stage. the underlying problem is probably the headlight switch, the whole headlight power goes through it and as it gets old it can have increased resistance. You need to get another switch, I recommend brand new from nissan For now you have to leave the fuse out and not drive at night. The headlight power wiring (blue/red) goes all over the place because it controls a lot of functions as well as the headlights like dash lights, cigarette lighter lights, tail lights etc etc etc. Somewhere a bare part of that wire is contacting the chassis and shorting so you need to find and fix that, or more likely if you are not confident with electrics replace the whole dash loom and anything else that is damaged (maybe front loom as well)

Could you tell us a bit more about what you mean by overheating? Does it get hot when driving, when idling, how hot, have you taken the cap off when it is cold and checked if you can see any coolant? Is there any white smoke when driving? radiator pressure test? compression test?

Be careful up there Molly! (surely not too soon). In any case, I'm not convinced those wind driven ones do much, I guess it is worth the try. I've got Mark's awesome solar ones in the garage (not the shed sadly) but they aren't available any more and I think most current ones are junk too

Just run oil pressure to your ECU and shut down the motor if you lose pressure. Most N1 pumps in the world don't fail, the biggest risk factor seems to be bouncing off the rev limiter like a foo. Of course if you are thinking big big power (you didn't really give a figure above) then you should be changing to a different oil pump setup as the fundamental design from nissan was not great for quadrupling factory power....external wet pump is better a bit of a half pregnant option, dry sump is the way to keep a big $$ engine safe

funny, 2 days after that last post I got nailed in the back entering the freeway, I am still waiting for the new rear bar to arrive and get it back on the road. anyway, I did the xanavi upgrade from ebay. Everything was simple, plug and play English conversion. Probably the only thing not great is the English control buttons they provided are not a great match in colour/texture to the factory buttons, but of course you could keep the factory buttons if it worries you. Also, I lost the passenger mirror front parking camera in the conversion which is a shame A key thing for the fuga is that the head unit includes Australian maps, and one of the autonomous driving features gives a warning if you are a approaching a corner too fast. Obviously that doesn't work with the factory japanese maps. Also, there are options to put in aftermarket head units eg Andriod. I've put one of them in my stagea and have found it excellent, however, for the fuga you might or would lose the hybrid monitoring and some other head unit based controls. I generally think Android is a better head unit than factory because you can run whatever apps you want, but I was not willing to lose the hybrid display features I'm not sure if the english units are still available. The seller I brought from is shut https://www.ebay.com/str/xanavioemupgrades

I run 32 GTR brakes on the rear, and the stock space saver fits over them fine. It is the 350mm ATTKD 8 spots that doesn't fit. There is absolutely no issue using a wheel that fits over the hub, even if the hub ring is not correct (obviously you cannot mount the wheel if it's bore is smaller than the hub size. The hub/wheel bore is just to make it easier to fit the wheel, once it is on the pressure of the wheel nuts on the stud clamping the wheel to the hub face hold it in place. If they were day to day rims with a bore mismatch you can buy hub centric adapters but don't lose a second's sleep with a temporary spare

yeah just fine grade wet and dry, it should be fine

Agreed....but if it is what he has.... I was wondering if there was a voltage drop with the AC on, the ATTESSA is pretty voltage sensitive, particularly if the subframe earths are missing/broken etc

1 wire oil sensors would be either temp or pressure warning light, although the latter is usually quite a large unit

I just have the standard one, it has been fine (for short distances) even with bigger tyres (I run 245/45/18). The bigger issue is that the standard spare doesn't fit over big front brakes, so despite GTSBoy's good advice, I have to run it on the rear. Have done so a few times without issue, just take it easy and change as soon as you can

I don't suppose you have any way to monitor the car's voltage when the issue occurs....it might be dropping and ATTESSA is the first thing to complain

No, it's really not OK. Like GTSBoy said it is before the turbos but there is still significant vacuum there under boost. You need to disconnect the other end and properly plug the intake with "something" correctly sized and a decent host clamp. And since that part wasn't done right you should check how everything was disconnected at the end you took the pic of too. Do you have any BOVs or are those ports blocked off? Is there a loose vacuum line there anywhere?