Duncan

If I needed someone to check out an import in Sydney, I'd get Just Jap to do it. They have a mechanic who has worked on a billion of these. Not sure if they actually offer the service but it would be worth calling and asking

Out of interest, how did you come to decide you need new injectors? Nissan would be a reliable replacement on a stock car but I guess not good pricing

It never ends

That sucks, I guess she doesn't want you to put those new tyres on her FWIW, it won't be the starter motor via a 60A fuse, way too small, but headers (and anything else you've modified, which is almost everything now :p) would be the place to start. Multimeter in the Fuse socket will probably confirm continuity to ground, and one option is to disconnect battery +, put 60A fuse back in and then check the regular fuses one by one to narrow down which specific circuit has the issue (I'm assuming the 60A fuse is in serial with the individual fuses like in sykline)

Have you seen examples of that fan not working on RBs? Why would it be substantially different on the different motor?

At face value, if the motor runs with the relay disconnected it is probably earth switched and it is earthing out somewhere in the loom

We would call that a half cage here as there are no legs from the roof at the B pillar down to the floor at the A pillar. As such it is road friendly in Oz (nothing to bang your head on), but also of very limited safety benefit and not legal for any racing. Hard to see in the pics, is there a point to bolt the extra legs on at the B pillar roof? It might be a standard kit like the cusco bolt in cage with the front legs not installed. I assume you couldn't find a brand on it or you would have mentioned...

Without having checked the wiring diagram, visually they all look like factory style crimps. They use brass joiners and a small piece of electrical tape from factory Have you seen the (readable) diagrams that GTSBoy posted up?

Best to take it to a shop. Diff bushes are a pain in the arse to change, it can be easier to drop the whole subframe (one of those jobs you can't do on a quickjack....) They need to be cut or pressed out, and pressed back in again at the rear, the fronts are easier to get to. You should be able to diagnose diff bush issues by jacking up the car, supporting with stands and getting a big pry bar between the diff and the chassis...it should not move noticeably.

There are a pair of studs in the chassis, your right arrow is correct but the other stud is on the opposite corner. Pic from my car

Unfortunately the shape is a little fiddly, eg from google image search for "ATTESSA sensor" You don't need to have something identical, in my manual converted stagea it has been custom mounted and working OK for about 15 years. It does need to be pointing forward (as it las separate lateral and longitudinal sensors) and reasonably level when parked (for the same reason), and ideally towards the centre of the wheelbase

They are decoration. You might notice the difference if you were doing a lot of track work without a roll cage and tested it back to back.

Most often speed input....is your speedo working....those cables like to break after all this time.

Well, potentially access is an issue. If you wanted to remove the rear subframe (big job), you would not be able to have it on the quickjack, you would need to use stands. Not being able to roll under it from the side is often an issue, just means you need to crawl in the long way (what is the point of a jacking solution that is meant to be convenient but is actually inconvenient?) Re the blocks, those would be no good for a platform jack like you posted because the bottom is not flat. I have 4x rubber blocks approx 150mm cubed, like this https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/114377766957?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=dKrnEHllRgO&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=dJvnaZ11TB-&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY I can't see any use for rubber pads on a jack stand as you generally would put them under a steel subframe or suspension point, not the sills (if you use sills the car will be lower making it hard to work under, although they would be out of the way for pretty much every task)

I guess it's a V36 from his profile, have a look over this way Alan: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/forum/170-vq-series-v35-v36-infiniti/ And you should post up some pics of your car

I've heard that sentiment around but highly doubt that is the issue for Wakie. Surrounding land is RU2 which requires minimum lot size 100a to build on. Probably some of the local land is larger than that so could be split up and sold to escaping sydney siders, but nothing like where Oran Park was, Amaroo, Calder, Sandown etc I think the Liberals just don't see votes in fixing the issue. AFAIK Labor have not come out either way but will probably have to decide before March.

speaking of which, where were you and the bogan mobile?

looks good....but man that first engine bay scratch is going to hurt. maybe just do it deliberately to get it over and done with

hahaha there was plenty of that going on, good to meet you

https://www.goulburnpost.com.au/story/7960267/everyone-supports-wakefield-park-but-whats-next-owners-ask/ It's pretty clear from the local member's comments that the state government don't intend to assist; they say the track and the council should have worked it out rather than going to the L&E court. Of course, that leaves the track with the option of submitting a new DA to council which has to be materially different than the previous one to operate a race track with additional pit buildings, which state laws will require the council to reject again. With a state election coming up, it is possible one party or the other will make a commitment to resolving the issue, as leaving it between the track and council who have to comply with state laws won't get a different result

Well, if you are going to pay people to troll, you will get trolls. Hell, plenty of people are willing to provide that service for free. He earned his 12c out of me (although I never get the advertising, "OMG!!! I got $53,400", does anyone really click that stuff?) Full props for pushing it around like a tonka toy during the process. sorry for any spoiler.

you said blow tehehehehe

The blocks I use are generic (I got them with the hoist from memory) and while I don't think they are damaging the jacking points it is hard to tell because it is a race car and has a fair bit of underfloor damage from over the years. If you are worried all you need to do is cut a slit in the block so that it rests on the chassis with the sill fold in the slit...5mm would be plenty

They work, as well as they work. I've got quickjacks because I don't have a strong slab or enough height for a proper hoist. For some reason I don't have many good side on pics but this is the idea. It lifts it higher than regular jack stands but still not very convenient. According to specs in mine the frame is 462mm, plus whatever you add as support blocks (I use rubber blocks about 100mm high at each corner, so about half a metre of clearance) There are similar style scissor lifts which do lift higher, to say 1 metre which might be the case for what you've shown above, but it is still nothing like a proper walk under hoist In terms of support, you just use rubber blocks between the top of the jacking platform and the factory sill jacking points. The style I have, you park the car and then slide the jacks under so clearance is no issue. If you get a style you need to drive onto, consider clearance from the front bar to the lifting platform, depending on how low your car is you might only have 100mm to play with Keep in mind, you do get clear access under the car eg to gearbox, exhaust etc, but you can't access anything around the sills (eg rear subframe mount), and you can't get under the car from the side, you need to go from either the front or rear of the car

noting....I'm no photographer