Duncan

I don't know what globes/headlight connector they run, but I'd be looking for a female adapter to plug into the existing headlight on one side. Something like this https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/256017245989 Then I'd use a pair of single input, double output relays (one for low, one for high), mount them in a spare space in the fuse box if you want to to look more original (and be easier to maintain). Then 2 new power sources from the main stud in the fuse box via a fuse to each relay. Low from the headlight adapter pin triggers low relay and high from the high headlight adapter pin triggers high and low. Earth the relays and new headlight sockets and off you go. Because it triggers off the original headlight all of the dipping/hi on/high flash all still works

I doubt you will find such a thing after all this time (and if you do, unless it comes from a wrecker with a guarantee I would have no confidence about the "good, running" part. There are few of these old motors around, and if one is out of the car but apparently OK there is a high chance of issues. You are much better off pulling the engine you have and having it rebuilt. If you have no plans other than running a stock motor, a quick clean, measure, new bearings and rings and a head job is going to be the cheapest way to get you back into a reliable engine

Yeah I haven't found anything different between the Fuga/Q70 and Skyline/Q50 hybrid drivetrains. I think its also worth remembering that the engine (VQ35HR) is from a 350z originally; unlike say the Toyota hybrid engines it is not totally tuned for economy, there is still a bit of life/fun in it and the setup goes well with 225+50kw available BTW, FWIW my only qualifications on fuel are that I burn a lot of it. I use the cheapest grade the car is rated for (95) and at times when it was not available have run 94 (E10) without any issue. Same goes for cars I have rated (or tuned) for 98....prices vary a lot in country towns and just last week the cheapest 98 in town was 50c higher than E10, I'm not going to pay more than I have to.

welcome to SAU sounds like you do have a bit of sorting out to do on the car, but it looks nice you can attach pics directly after you've made 10 posts.

yeah a coolant pressure test will tell you if you have a leak anywhere as it just pressurises the system. If it drops from where you set it, say 1 bar, you have a leak somewhere

Yeah you need separate rims and proper semis. Buy something cheap in the right size and offset. Anything except top line semis you are wasting your time if you are chasing lap times. Re using the on the street, it is totally possible with semis, just dumb/expensive if you are daily driving it. We drive to tassie and back, do targa (racing and touring) and home again on 6x semis (1.5 sets); that is about 3,000klm road + 1,000klm racing

which is to say....can be done but probably a specialist thing. My guess is the tank was dropped with the breather still connected at some stage, there's no reason it would crack on top of the tank on its own.

100% all of those tyres you named are road legal, depending on compound and size I've used them all for rally use. Of course they are noisy and wear fast but I'm assuming you'd only drive to the track and back on them, not in peak hour. Kumho V70a are a bit mixed, I liked them but the commodores were having blow outs in low profiles (35 and lower) so the series moved off them. Also they love sky high pressures, like 46 or even higher, to work best which is strange but not a problem A052 and Z221 are the quickest if money (and size) is no object. The dunlops used to be good but DZ03G were a step down for some reason.

odd. I thought all the top race teams used them.

undo the sway bar link, put it on last. put a jack under the outer ball joint on the lower control arm to raise the hub and off you go

yeah basic OBD data would be nice, and cheap electronically to add, might be coming in future. unfortunately in nissan at least, only a small subset is on the OBD can and all the interesting stuff like boost or oil pressure is on a proprietary CAN

Yeah, you'll never get a reasonable time without spending on tyres, they ware worth more than all the other mods put together for lap times. How's the garmin going? It is difficult to get data logging into the new car (because must retain standard ECU for tuning which can't do lap logging so need separate systems nekmennit), was thinking about using one of those in the meantime

Yeah 98 for me, and 6.7/100 was my actual usage. On the downside the bloody thing still isn't running properly but at least they hybrid system is happy now. It starts but missfires like a bastard, and isn't throwing any code except "missfire". Thanks scoop. I did notice the AFMs are reading quite different at idle 1.33v and 1.67v so 25% variance (and have both changed and swapped them, the issue stays on the driver's side afm) so I'm looking for exhaust restriction (mouse nest?), compression issue or (hopefully not, no physical damage seen) wiring issue. Throttle might also be an issue but that is harder because you can't swap them side to side and not cheap to fire the parts cannon at.

actually, I've had one of those for a while and it gets more use than you'd think. Yes catching subframes, engines etc coming out under a car on a hoist, but also getting heavy stuff on shelving (to a certain height) without a forklift, holding the fuga's hybrid battery....like many good tools you'll find the jobs for it once you have it

Welcome James.....will be interesting to see how much fun there is in the project. .....where's the pics?

Your profile doesn't say where you are, but you can get your current turbo rebuilt by any competent turbo shop, places like Precision Turbos or GCG They can replace the core with a modern ball bearing unit and should be able to source same or slightly larger wheels to fit in you housing. Note if you change the core you may need new oil and water lines too

So, the other thing I've sorted is a baseline dyno run up at Unigroup's new location. The auto trans was a little unco-operative by both shifting down when the throttle was floored on the dyno (so Mark had to ramp it up more slowly than in a manual) and also by shifting up at 6,000 even in sports mode instead of the indicated redline of 7,000 Still, on a hot day it made 240rwkw at 16psi which seems about right for 300kw (400hp) through an auto at the wheels. The shape of the curve is not quite right because it was not full throttle to about 4,500 to stop it kicking down, but until I can get a tune on the auto trans control this was the best we could do.....full boost will be well below 5,000 once that is sorted, I'll get some data logs when I can to confirm For comparison, the R32 made 255 at 12psi (at 4,500) on the same dyno with tune, n1 turbos, cam gears, big exhaust but otherwise all standard so the v37 is likely a little better out of the box. One thing that is very clear is that the standard water to air intercoolers are not up to sustained use at full throttle in warm ambient temps. After about 5 runs (so only a few minutes full throttle), it was pulling boost and timing and dropping 10-15% power. Unfortunately I didn't get that printout and the Unigroup guys are away at the moment, will try and get hold of it on their return. So, looks like a healthy engine to start modifying and the only real area of concern is the w2a heat exchangers which the aftermarket has plenty of solutions for

Sorry I think that must be another language thing, globe = light bulb

Just note that when trying to find a short in a globe power supply, it is best to disconnect the globe as it will allow current through to earth. With it unplugged it is easier not to get confused. Also with the r32 wiring, the high beam has 2 power supplies (one when you push the switch forward and the other when you temporarily pull it back; so if it is the high beam blowing you will need to trace both circuits

Hey Mark...sorry to interrupt your career change to hair dressing... but...did you ever fit the interchiller to the commodore, and if so how was it? And, who made it?

I agree, most likely a sensor issue. You didn't mention how it was running but above about 20:1 it won't run anyway

my guess is 2wd and 4wd are not interchangeable, but in any case you can just buy the bush (regular or adjustable) instead of a whole new arm

OK, that is a helpful description, because that sounds exactly like a bleeding issue in the clutch....these are hard to bleed manually even when the damping loop has been removed. I'd suggest bleeding again....start by filling the master cylinder up and opening the bleed nipple. Come back and check every now and then that the master cylinder is not empty. Let it gravity bleed for a few hours and see if that improves

You cut that screenshot a little short; immediately below it First number is torque in Nm, then in brackets kg-m followed by ft-lb I'm not sure why they provide a range, I have always aimed for about 80% of the top to leave a little room for error

I doubt you'll find someone with specific experience. Any competent mechanic can service it, the motor is same as late 350z.