Duncan

Hey @alexburns, not sure if you saw the link but you can get the C34 manual here: https://www.hgeconsulting.com.au/stageaservicemanual.pdf I am pretty sure 260RS is not covered at all, but if you grab the R32 GTR manual that will cover anything that is different to base model

Took those guys a very long time to catch up with PowerFC!

To be clear, industry standard for belts is xPK is the number of ribs in the belt and xxx is the length. So 4PK925 has 4 ribs and is 925mm long

Before you go too far with this, just make sure it is indeed the headlights on, and not the foglights (switch on the dash surround). Also, are the taillights always on?

I've been using 5w30 which is still allowed in the manual but not the recommended 0w20, I can't really say one way or the other if it is causing a problem until I tear the engine down, certainly there has been no sign of issue but I drive it hard and will change it every 5000. Even with the Infiniti not import, my local Nissan won't help with parts or servicing. Just use a competent mechanic who has attention to detail and a compatible scan tool.

Sorry for asking a basic question, but is it cable or electric throttle? Assuming is is electric throttle (most likely), you won't have an aftermarket option. It may be possible to fit factory parts from a cruise control car because the wiring is likely to be there, but best to hear if someone has actually done it. If it is cable throttle you can get aftermarket cruise installed...I've had an aftermarket electric cruise in the Stagea for about 15 years and it works well

Per 32 GTR service manual (same gearbox) torque spec is 16-21nm (not shown in the chassis section but SD-11 covers it Nissan sometimes provide grease on the seal, if not I would put a light run of general grease (not moly) on it before placing the front cover (no seal likes being totally dry). And yes, everything inside is lubricated with gearbox oil, so the front bearing does not need to be greased.

Also, are they the same CVs you pulled out or were they changed/unknown

Also keep in mind that oil temp, oil pressure are not in the ECU unless you add them. Either way you should be able to get RealDash running on any unrestricted android head unit, I used an ATOTO S8. Mine is connected to a Link but I assume Haltech is the same basic approach, you just need to add a CAN to USB converter for the head unit. More details of my setup in my stagea build thread (somewhere...) if that helps

If storage space is an issue, the old "front cut" approach might be worthwhile....cut the car in half just at the back of the transmission and remove the guards, front bumper and bonnet. You get everything you are likely to need, importantly including all the wiring that you have not mentioned above and which will be a headache to work out between the 2 cars

Yeah you should really holesaw a hole into the seat base and cut a slit into the cushion, and buy or 5 or 6 point one. 4 point is really not safe for track use and probably not CAMS rules compliant anyway. For the mountings there are diagrams in the CAMS manual about where the 5th and/or 6th point need to be, and you can buy or make compliant reinforcing plates for the nuts like this: https://www.vsport.com.au/grayston-eye-bolt-back-plate-fia-approved

Not sure what the purpose is for a harness, but a 4 point harness is basically the same safety-wise as lap sash; you still run the major issue of submarining under the belt in a big one. 5 and/or 6 point belts require a hole in the cushion and seat base and mounts in a specific area under the seat

Informeter, Informeter toch and HKS OBDLink are all just display tools and can't program a key, I've got the informeter touch in both the Titan and Fuga. What you need is the manual programming sequence from the owner's manual, hopefully someone has it. Inserting and removing 6 times sounds a little simple, it normally requires using a known key to unlock programming mode then some steps with the new key. Alternatively there are aftermarket scan tools that include key coding, but as you say they may not be PM35 friendly; also the key coding bit is often brand specific and expensive so many people may not have the nissan stuff.

Just remember to throw it in the bin, not the spare screws box!

Can you post up the ATTESSA Pro instructions?

I'm not 100% sure for a R33 GTST but could check with a VIN#....however in r32 gtr it is a separate bearing which bolts in at the rear (front is separate press in). *to be clear* the bearing bolts to the hub but you still need to press in the stub axle with the wheel studs to the bearing

I bought mine through just jap about 18 months ago, not sure what stock or pricing looks like today.

I'd be happy to trust Kudos, they sent me an incorrect connector a while back and when I realised they sent the correct one immediately (and told me to keep the other). Yes I'd prefer they didn't make a mistake in the first place, but in my experience every business does some time or other and it is how they make it right that matters

First up, there is absolutely nothing wrong with a powerfc on a light or medium built car, it will run it just fine, is easy for pretty much anyone to tune, and unlike everyone else you don't have to keep a laptop under seat to see that is happening. Only real issue is that it doesn't have active knock control (not that most aftermarket ECUs have that set up properly) or engine protection for things like low oil pressure...so still keep an eye on the dash lights. I'd guess that the tune is password protected which is why you can't see the values. If the previous owner doesn't know who put the password on it and your are running standard turbo and injectors, I'd factory reset it and then get it tuned some day....any half skyline familiar tuner can work with it, and I think DVSJez is up your way and would have it sorted in a flash

This one might need a recording of the sound...

Since i always have cars with flat batteries, I use one of these, expensive thou at 880rrp https://www.projecta.com.au/products/IS1500/12v-1500a-lithium-jumpstarter In my experience pretty much any of those square ones like you posted in the first fill start a skyline as long as the jump pack is properly charged, they are a simple, low compression engine. Just remember to let the fuel pump prime at ON for 3 seconds before you hit start

Will be good to see how this goes! One suggestion with the Mines ROM tune, you should get it on a dyno and check it is safe before you push the car hard.....you never know what was done in there and for what fuel....

At least 50 shades, I'd say

Congrats on buying the coolest RB....where's the pictures!!

I don't know, but I can confirm the paint code shown on your build plate is the external panels; on all R chassis the internal panels including engine bay are similar but not the same as the external paint. You will probably have to get the paint shop to just match what is there as best they can