Duncan

It's fine. Basically if it has seized (eg due to moisture/rust in the bores) it will either break free on the starter or it won't turn....then you'll know it is freed up If it turns and doesn't start (reasonably likely) you will need to troubleshoot but most likely issue is a seized injector from moisture; same if it starts but missfires. Anything else could have happened (eg mice nibbling electricals) but the only way to find out is to close your eyes and hit the key I'd also change the fuel filter again after a few minutes of running as it may catch a heap of crap on first start

You've put new fuel in, you'll need a healthy new battery too then just send it. Even the brakes won't be an issue, the surface rust wipes off straight away.

Sorry to say, I think that is a pretty long shot on this forum.....

sorry, "info" from Lumley here: https://www.lsvcarinsurance.com.au/about-nrma-insurance

So it looks like Lumleys are closing other than in Victoria, with the kind offer that another brand from the evil IAG multi-glomerate (NRMA) might offer insurance under their price and conditions if they want to, as an alternative. Lunmleys was good for us because they covered JDM and USDM imports, had 2 car "stable" insurance (ie, insure many cars but max of 2 can be driven at once), covered mods, reasonable overall prices. So, with them gone, who else should I consider? Shannons is last on my list, we used to be insured with them until we found they were helpful at taking premiums but much less helpful at claim time.

Brake Fluid testers are cheap and readily available....eg https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/endeavour-brake-fluid-tester-rechargeable/SPO9539349.html

I thought I'd share this....the shell is non genuine but they found or built a lot of the genuine parts. Plus, it is by far the best colour scheme of those years, the winfield once was particularly shit https://www.v8sleuth.com.au/written-off-inaugural-godzilla-recreated/

Good work Pete and glad the car held up well....been a while since I've seen you try properly

Just quick update, I've had tech issues and so a backlog on life stuff....I will pull lap times from the video and data from the ECU logs to do a proper update. But basically, in order of importance: 1. The car was excellent fun on the track, really felt a lot like the good old days. And nice to have AC while waiting 2. Coolant got really hot; again I need to pull and analyse the logs but the standard system is not up to tracking at 30o+ days, once the system was heat soaked after the first 2x15min sessions I could only do 3 laps before it got 110+ and I had to cool down. If I can't improve that it is a deal breaker 3 Oil temps were fine all day, noting it was short sessions due to 2. I think it will likely need work 4 Biggest surprise AT temps were fine, never went over 100, I would have been OK with 120 before I was too concerned. The auto sucks compared to a manual (of course) but it is faster to launch and I just need to downshift it manually before hitting the throttle, then it was OK. When I post the vids you'll hear it telling me off (beeping) for trying to downshift too early (it needs about 3500 before it will downshift, depending on gear a little but we are mostly talking 3/2 and 4/3) 5 A052s were not great which hurt the lap times, but I will be constrained in what I can get in good tyres that fit the wheel wells. These were small for a heavy car at 235/45/18. In theory I can fit 9.5 on front and 10.5 rear (so not square) but I still need 670mm+ high tyres in good brands. 6 Standard shocks/springs/roll bar are too soft for track work (of course), but that was always on the list. And happily, no white on the mat, despite having a teenaged passenger, extinguisher mount was fine. Also, it was nice to have Wakefield Park back in action . Because the car was so quiet it is eligible for Green Day, which I thought was a band but is apparently a series of cheaper practice days they run with a lower sound limit, that is a smart idea.

Great to hear you are bringing it out of the shed again. Unless you have specific issues I'd just add the wideband, get a good tune and enjoy it. Certainly no point changing coils etc if they are working. If would add fuel pressure and e85 sensor if you are doing a general update but not if it runs OK and you are just getting it back on track. The other thing is smaller, modern twins, -5 are OK for motorsport but pretty laggy and old tech for street use (of course, if performance is the priority a modern single with twin scroll manifold etc is the go but not cheap). The final thing worth considering is switching to an ethrottle if drivability is still an issue, it should make things a lot simpler and smoother

Yeah pretty sure they are m4, but best to check, and perhaps use new hardware Also don't over torque them......there was that one time I lost an expensive engine after a workshop overtorqued one of those bolts and it ended up in the oil pump (no, I don't know why they removed the intake mesh either)

A timely blog via AASA (keeping in mind they sell brake fluid of course...) https://www.msbgarage.com/blog/news-and-blogs/brake-fluid-what-should-i-use/

Ahh got it. Well maybe install a drain for the catch can somewhere down low and accessible like a wheel well too....

I'd use any fuel safe foam....mine went in 15 years and 15 rebuilds ago, still getting reused I'd have to say I don't understand swapping to studs to fit a particular baffle unless you are having a massive blowby issue, and even if you are addressing crankcase not head breathing is probably the next step.

I can't help with the cam stud clearances (are studs really even needed??) but I have been running fuel cell foam over the factory baffles in the race car for years and they have been doing a reasonable job of keeping blowby under control....almost never have to drain the catch can even though the clearances are pretty loose

All I can add is that I run a shimmed factory diff and it is awesome for a balance between grip and clunks.....but no I don't know exactly what is in there and the shop that did it sadly is gone. I guess the point is just that the factory centre can be modified to do exactly what we want for racing

Actually to extend on that....the problem is it is very easy to make double or triple the power that Nissan engineered the cars for. If you are going to do that you have to accept that you have to re-engineer everything associated with your decision. Most of the club motorsport world is much more mildly modified, with people spending a track:broken ratio that skyline modifiers only dream of

The V37 did just fine at the track day, other than it needs a bigger radiator. Mods are the problem.

You're 20 years too late mate. Used to be 80% skylines back in team trackday days

Just chuck in an ECU, Injectors and a pair of direct fit low mount turbos, that should use to the top of your budget and give it a nice kick along. Also, don't do anything unless you don't need the car daily....if it does blow and you get another 10k bill just to get back to where it is now would you be able to come up with the cash or will it sit for 2 years like most GTRs....

Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?

Welcome Newbie!

good news, the R32 wiring diagrams cover auto/manual and rb20/rb26

Yeah the electric a/c in the Fuga hybrid runs off the HV battery not the 12v system

lol that is not the same