Duncan

That's f**king awesome, and who knew you had a Skyline as well! Good news for old bones I guess you couldn't go clear floor due to ceiling height, how is it getting the car over the link?

Yes, and you have the option of masking your phone too (for extra cost of course). But Dose is better putting in the swap section of the Trading Post. "Jousting Sticks!"

A slightly larger than standard aftermarket fuel pump is a good idea if you have -5s and a tune in it. You don't need to go significantly larger. The stock airbox is fine for -5s and beyond. Since you have some sort of ECU just take the trigger wire from the ECU to standard fuel pump relay, run a fused wire from the battery to a new relay and replace the fuel pump ground with one direct to chassis. This will bypass the factory fuel resistor and upgrade the wiring giving about 10% more voltage to the pump As for the rest, it is difficult to advise without more information. Generally -5s would have upgraded injectors, factory ones run out about 250awkw. You should be able to tell from the tune file if you can read it. You would normally have 3" exhaust to support that too. FPR does not need to change and nor do fuel lines (unless they are old). Spark will also be fine if it is working correctly. Do you know maximum boost level? You might already have or might consider changing cams or even just adding cam gears for that level of tune, and it will probably have noticeable lag with full boost over 4,000 I'd still strongly recommend changing the timing belt etc unless you are certain about it. RB26 is an interference engine, so a failed timing belt will munch the valves. Considering these cars are 33 years old, they respond very easily to around 2x factory power. From there some weaknesses need to be addressed. Re transfer case, correct it fills just like the gearbox. It takes ATF, I use Castrol Transmax Z in the race car. The ATTESSA system takes the same stuff and you bleed it at 2 nipples; first at the rear of the transfer case and then above the rear driveshaft. When the engine is running or that bypass connector is open the pump bleeds continuously.

All of which will seem like a hell of a waste of time and money in 18 months when the drought returns and we are watching the bushfires roaring across the hills

Thats f**king awesome, thanks mate. I was just looking at the drains thinking they were going to need some larger rocks to stop erosion in the fast moving/steeper sections too, they are comparably cheap to bring enough of them in. I've got a grader blade so regular resurfacing is no issue, I do need to bring in a massive amount of roadbase over time if I want to improve the actual surface meaningfully, but it is passable now, even 2wd in the wet Culverts are a practical issue too....there are 4 places where I could do with them but that is a very expensive job - 2 lengths of pipe, excavator time to dig down, aggregate under them to keep them stable with a proper fall, headwall at both ends and a pit at the entry. For now I've just got a light ditch across the road surface at each location and just fill them back in every now and then. We did put 2 proper culverts under the main drive - 4 lengths x 600mm pipe...cost about $8k but I've never seen them more than 2/3 full which is a win. 20220129_173018.mp4 Need to do the same under the mid dam road, it goes under all the time Just had the lower dam overflows dug out, looks like they are 2x300mm which is probably not enough for big rain.

honestly mate, have you given frenchy's a call? They have not provided you enough information and you risk blowing something expensive up if you get it wrong. No mechanic would have got this far without giving the supplier a rocket about wasted time and poor instructions

I'm not familiar with the rb25 throttle, but yes I would expect it 100% closed at rest. My stagea has a little stopper screw on the throttle which can hold it slightly open, if you have the same try and back it off until the throttle is closed at rest. There is probably a proper description in the workshop manual how to deal with all this

OK great. So with AAC turned all the way in you should have minimal airflow. Does the throttle close fully? Do you have the other cold start valve connected as well, it might be downstream of the AAC?

We're a bit south of there but same general area. This was the little river behind our place after 50mm of rain (back during the drought it took 150+mm for that)

No work worth updating on the race car, dealing with some minor surface rust / underbody / chipped interior paint etc. As they say in racing, its "good from afar, but far from good". I'm also updating mounts for rally gear in the boot like spare wheel/jack/toolkit. On the other hand, the 100m of the 1klm of driveways I have done went awesome in the big rain The rest, not so much.

Agreed, and most likely just a gauge issue if it is not knocking after 2 minutes. More information or pics needed about what you have plumbed where....

Any tips on what engine/chassis this is?

Have you tried to adjust the airflow at idle by turning the big screw on the AAC? As you've cleaned it, it may be letting significantly more air through than when the the ECU was tuned

Welcome to the forums and congrats on your purchase. Sorry, I don't know anything about the fabric, although wear/tears/cigarette burns are common after 33 years. I doubt you can get 1 seat recovered without making the other seat really stand out so it is probably worth just getting a local upholsterer to do both. Re the filters (and klm), it really depends what you want to do with the car. How owners and the market generally view them has changed dramatically in the last 5 years, so if you intend to keep the car for many years (or even flip it quickly) without intending to modify it, putting the standard airbox back in and keep everything stock and tidy will be best for it's value. Speaking of value, unless you just set the record for most expensive R32 GTR in the world, it will not have a genuine 50,000klm on it, winding back the odometer is pretty common, and you need to have it carefully checked for rust. Due to the klm question, unless you are certain about the timing belt I would change that as part of a first service, and while you are there do the water pump, timing belt idler, timing belt tensioner and their respective stud and bolt. Plus everything else you would do for an old car that you car about; change every fluid (engine, gearbox, transfer case, front diff, rear diff, brakes, coolant), fuel filter, fuel pump (maybe drop and clean the whole tank out), check all bushes and ball joints. I'd also get it run up on a dyno to make sure it is running OK and to check what boost it is making (especially if the turbos are standard, they are likely to fail and potentially cause engine damage above about about 14psi). Spark plugs, coil packs, coil pack wiring, crank angle sensor, coil ignitor pack, AAC valve are all common trouble points at this age.

Great pic, so I change my vote....B-47 is behind the centre console not near the steering wheel.

The idle control can absolutely cause erratic high idle. The ECU is targetting whatever it was told, say 800rpm and will see it is high. Since it can't control air volume it tries to control fuel, so it would pull fuel out until it gets near the target, at which point it returns to the map which might cause the idle to spike again because there is more air than expected. That looks like the same AAC as I have on the Stagea, there should be a large screw in the end not shown in the pic. Wind it in until snug and see if it idles, if not back it out a little until you get the idle you are after.

Glad you've made some progress. Apart from visual inspection of the main hoses, you could spray a little start ya bastard/ether/brake cleaner on any suspect joints; if idle rises you know the extra fuel made it to the inlet so there is a leak there. They can be hard to find though. I'm not familiar with idle control on rb25, but what did you do to that valve, just clean it? You might need to reset an idle screw if it has gone form dirty to clean

So firstly, while I have a link in the Stagea, I'm no expert, and the software is almost as bad as the Haltech plug in software so it is a bit of a challenge. I am not sure that there is an order required between TPS calibration and timing. There is on the standard ECU but since you can lock timing in the Link I guess you can do either order. The TPS raw voltage doesn't really matter, what matters is the Link knows the closed and WOT voltage, so I'd do that calibration process first. The timing is locked when that timing screen is open, so make sure it is open when you are trying to set the base timing. I've only ever done it by getting the CAS into the ballpark (if it's marked) or starting at the middle of adjustment, starting the engine and then adjusting to get to the target (15o in your case). It may be possible to do when cranking. And yes, absolutely you need to return after changing the turbo. Same boost but bigger housing is more air which will require more tune. However, off boost at idle it should not make a material difference so that is not your issue. I should add, you need to make sure you don't have a mechanical issue like an air leak before chasing ECU issues. An air leak is the most likely cause of a high idle.

Is this an rb25 (single manifold)? On Rb26 I've had this issue where each factory 3 cylinder manifold has shrunk a little with the heat cycles and I've needed to grind out the hole for the studs a little....I would not be surprised if you could have the same issue but more so with a 6 cylinder one.

Yes, you can block off the end of a hose instead of capping the nipple on the plenum, same same. For many years the standard way was a suitably sized bolt, hose clamped or cable tied in place. The right way to do it would be one of those vacuum caps straight on the nipple as posted above. It is not impossible to get to, you just need tiny hands and to hold your tongue right while you try and do it. The Haltech expects a mac valve to be installed in the location of the stock wiring, so just cut that and wire in the new plug there. But as said in post 2, the standard ECU works differently and you may have issues if you switch the boost controller before you switch the ECU

It's not an exact location, but the general location will be under the dash, probably just to the left of the steering column, mounted on the dash support bar. and like GTSBoy said the physical clicking will be easy to follow

They really have not given you enough information to install this kit. Are there any tiny tiny numbers on the pressure switch to determine which is 1,2,3,4 that way? Diagram shows pin 1-2 are a circuit and 3-4 are a circuit, so assuming the switch is normally closed (I think it is because the switch turns off when target pressure is reached) you can use your multimeter to identify which 2 pairs have continuity. If it was factory wiring you would guess the red wires are 12v and white wires are earth but this is aftermarket so all assumptions are off.

Well, you go to Triggers - Calibrate - Set base timing. In that window you set whatever base timing is convenient and the ECU locks it there while you have the window open. In your case it sounds like you want to use 15o so change that if it is not, then using the timing light and adjust the CAS until it is at 15o. Be aware that it is common to get doubled readings from a timing light using the loop at the back of the engine, so you may have accidently set the base timing to 30, not 15. Under Options there is a TPS Setup item that helps you calibrate the TPS if you think it has changed. Even so, I am not sure that running as badly as you are saying is just a base timing issue. I guess start with that but it sounds like something else is not right.

Isn't this already in place? All the Euro cars with the inconsiderate drivers and error lights on the dashboard are required to pay for Euro plates in NSW?

He said what everyone was thinking. Surely bluetooth is the answer, even for internet radio if necessary