Duncan

I've had a properly sized rubber hose without a clamp pop off the standard fittings, specifically the boost reference at the back of the post throttle balance tube which I was using for the Haltech MAP input, at 1.3 bar I run cable ties on all of those small hoses for safety and reliability (they are too small for any sort of useful hose clamp, factory had those little spring clamps which are just a form of decoration)

Cubes are great city cars. We had one for a few years with hectic autech exhaust and lowish springs. You'd be the coolest mum in the school queue by a long way. Just stick with the regular auto, the CVTs were problematic

Sorry to say, it is very difficult to get the hose off with the turbo in place because the 2 hard lines don't have much gap between them, it is highly likely to split the rubber hose. Unfortunately taking the turbo off will be easiest.

When you changed across, did you re-use the factory oil return pipe? I thought there was a physical difference between factory and garret cores, which is why these exist: https://justjap.com/products/xtr-turbo-oil-drain-adapter-garrett-t28 If it fitted up fine, I can only suggest pulling the oil drain again (real pain) and checking the gasket and mating surfaces

Yep at around 400kw the standard box is near its limit, some people kill them straight away, some people must be nicer and never have a problem. I'm running a standard 32 gtr (awd) box in my stagea at 400kw Unless you really want to spend money on it, stick with the standard box until it breaks, and then put an aftermarket gearset in it (either syncho or dog depending on how unfriendly you want it to be on the street).

I'd respectfully suggest that "strongest" isn't really enough to provide useful advice. What sort of power or torque are you thinking, and what sort of use (street, drag, race, burnouts at summernats??)

OK, must just be me again. Other than daily latest content email, I've not received anything for posts or topics since 10:53 on 20-Sept, would generally get 30-50 per day. Also didn't receive notification of your mention in this thread for example

Ha, well no progress lately so no updates. Given another upcoming wet summer I've been out on the tractor with the grader blade trying to get some driveway drainage in place, which in itself is an interesting challenge. And once that is done I'll have a few months of weeds to get ahead of for the same reason. My guess is progress on GTR will be slow until later in the year. Kell is off to Great Tarmac Rally in a couple of weeks with Mel in a shitbox wrx instead.

Hey @PranK is there an issue with email notifications? I seem to be missing some or all post and/or forum emails which I assumed was just me again....but I noticed someone else mentioned they had missed a notification too?

I hope they are willing to replace if it fails at under 4000hp (is that wheels or fly?)

I'm really happy with it as a zoom around the countryside car. Not a race car but it handles OK and goes well. I was a little nervous about the battery thing too, but figured replacement is possible if necessary. I did get the car taken to a dealer before shipping to be checked out for any errors and HV system issues on the basis that it would be half the price to fix anything before it left. They said the batteries were in great condition, but of course who would know Ultimately, it would be hard to tell if they weren't OK unless you were paying a lot of attention to how often it is in electric mode. It starts and stops pretty seamlessly so if a battery was dead and it did so 1/12th more often I'd never notice. Incidentally, in the full EV Leaf this whole thing is much easier. There is software called Leafspy that reads the EV can and provides detail on the health of individual batteries, so you could get it checked before auction in about 2 minutes and have confidence in what you are getting

It is looking great But I'd be running the standard, not nismo thermostat (even for track use). Assuming you have sufficient cooling, it just runs too cool with that

Sorry but those results are a good example of bad news, it won't be just a test issue or similar (unless you can't repeat the result on #4). At a minimum head comes off but more likely it is a broken ring land because valve issues most often give 0 compression

Maybe.....but I've been lifting my 32, stagea and previously 33 with the front tow points for years, never had the slightest sign of damage. Tow hooks are actually a very convenient spot for low cars because you don't need to get the jack far under the car

well, you should put proper semis on them for the khana next year, some soft yokos A050 or hankook Z221, they are just mind blowing compared to street tyres

f**k, someone would have felt a bump when that happened!

So, I totally didn't mean to start a serious discussion, but clearly at (relatively) low power levels, standard configuration twins are perfectly adequate for competitive use. Depending on race category rules, response can be everything. The BSM national champs winning IPRA car ran smaller than stock twins due to the intake restrictor requirements, and N1s are perfectly adequate in production car racing too. Even in a case where the rules don't limit power, it can absolutely be better to trade off 500rpm for 100kw or more at the top end, as BK just demonstrated in the motorkhana....500rpm can take forever sometimes....

Sounds like you had a hectic but fun weekend. And.... Of course twins > singles

It's hard to believe the club has been around 20 years, good on Christian (Prank) in particular, but also Shell, Paul (URMINE), George (two40) for doing the work to get the club off the ground, and to all the committee and club members who have kept it going through good (and bad) times, a lot happens in 20 years Kel is racing at Great Tarmac Rally that weekend but I'll be coming along, I guess the Stagea needs a wash. I hope you have had some luck digging up old faces (not literally)

lol I meant when it was sold to those guys, way back in the day. From memory NS started as a private site around the same time SAU did....

OK, I've tried this with limited success staying active before..... This is a link to the C34 workshop manual in japanese: https://www.hgeconsulting.com.au/stageaservicemanual.pdf I don't have a M35 one but would be happy to host it if someone does

Google translate app has a camera feature that does a near real time translation of text you point it at. The first message is telling you to change your oil filter, the second one says "HAHAHA why you buy this car when you no read japanese HAHAHA"

It does sound a lot like the locking mechanisms need a clean then grease, under the door trims

I hate when hoes go missing

Do you know if the ECU is standard? If it is flashed or aftermarket it could also be an idle control issue in the tune