Duncan

Yeah sorry, to be clear, I'm not recommending that tyre size for you, for a C34 it is a lot bigger than the standard 205/55r16s I'd take the spring off one side front and rear, compress the tyre right up and see how much bigger diameter would fit and buy whatever suits that in your wheel size. Bigger diameter tyre makes a big difference to overall grip due to ground clearance and contact patch shape.

In that case, they are standard rb20e injectors, and probably flow stuff all because they were designed for about 100kw in a set of 6

well......so while we've modified our C34 mainly for more whoosh.....we have also done a couple of things to help if get around the property in average conditions (bad conditions are reserved for the tractor and patrol) Not sure exactly what snow mode does in M35, but I often use the centre diff lock in ours when the ground is tricky because it stops that issue of either front or rear spinning over uneven ground and giving up all traction as a result. It also has a working LSD in the back which helps too. For sure systems designed for reasonably flat tarmac fall down pretty quickly over soft or uneven ground so locking it up helps a lot. The other thing we did that made a massive difference is taller wheels; it is on 245/45/18s which give a lot more ground clearance. The are wide road tyres though, so their traction in mud is poor. We still had issues on very steep hills where there was enough traction but the oil flowed too far away from the pickup, I had to shut it down quickly and go back the long way. I reckon if you put the biggest wheels you can fit under the guards, AT tyres and taller springs, lock the diff if possible, it should be pretty capable. Plus, for sure, cut the back off to fit more bales in. Having said all that, an unregisterable ute is still the smart choice. It will have centre diff lock, low range, much better ground clearance and if it is mechanical diesel it will always start and run (probably poorly). Our property came with a hilux basher that we abuse when required

Not GTR ones, they were mustard coloured 440cc. What ECU is running them, standard or aftermarket? If aftermarket the injector settings are the best way to check actual flow

Well, good news, SAU NSW can do club rego these days. I'm not sure on the details but I'm sure someone from the club can post them up

Even if all the new sensors (or even old) were wired to the ECU, you would still have plenty of action in the dash. Night illumination, all lights coming on for a few seconds when the key is at IGN, etc etc. Plus, things like the tacho tap into the same signal that the ECU uses. Your problem is a dash or dash wiring issue. I forgot to ask, are you sure the dash fuse is not blown? When the dash is out of the car, can you apply 12v to pin A9 and ground at A4, B10, eg by touching terminals on a battery. Then, if you apply 12v to any of the warning lights (eg A1, A2, A7, A8 etc), they should light up. If that is all good check the car side where the harness is, check the grounds all have good continuity to ground and A9 has battery voltage with the key at IGN.

Well, I'm not saying that GTR diffs don't often wear out the navigator side bearing, but I can tell you I've never heard of it in 20 years of SAU.

So, the dash has about 40 connections through the pins in the back. If you are getting absolutely nothing then it is almost certainly power or earth that is missing. Suggest you get hold of the dash pin out and use a mulitmeter to check for those pins

There is absolutely nothing wrong with the standard diff (assuming you don't have the vspec ALSD), Nissan were kind enough to put a proper race spec diff there from factory. Did your engine builder have any specific benefit to go with the advice to change it? It is possible (but not particularly likely) that the factory diff centre is worn after 30 years, but if so it is a simple maintenance job to reshim the centre back to either original tightness, or if you want it to be difficult to drive in carparks you can get it tightened up more than factory. We use a tightened version of the original diff in the race car and have never had an issue with its ability to lock up when needed

Where exactly doesn't the shroud fit? Often some trimming to the top/rear of the shroud is required to clear the fan because the thicker radiator pushes the shroud back

Firstly, don't worry too much about the compression test results in the short term. If it is noticeably burning oil, or getting through oil between changes you can plan for a rebuild in your own timing. Re the immobiliser, they can be a PITA, I've had a couple fail over the years. Even if you are familiar with wiring it might take some time to sort. Best to pull the trims off, unmount the fuse box and key wiring and start chasing carefully. Basic operation of the immobiliser is they will cut some key loom wires and run them through the immobiliser. Good ones use all same colour wires (generally black) to make them harder to trace quickly. You need to find which factory wires were cut and sent via the immobiliser, and then join them back together (same colour to same colour). Generally that would be ECU power, start signal, fuel pump etc but it depends on the installer and immobiliser how many and which circuits are controlled. The basic wiring context is battery power comes into the key, and then depending on key position it goes back out on the ACC, IGN and/or Start wires. From there the ACC and IGN (as well as BAT) go to the fuse/relays at the driver's knees. The immobiliser could be tapped in before but more likely after the fuse/relay box in individual circuits. The other thing they almost always do is come with central locking so there will be separate wires for that, in that case they may have either cut or joined to, or just run in parallel factory wires. Your car will still open with the key even if you remove the immobiliser.

Fenix are great, NZ built, step up in quality from generic ebay. At one stage I was running top $$$ PWR radiator and it was no better than a Fenix one.

There is no issue with the standard fan up to 300kw, you will probably want a larger radiator to go with it. Among the most common cooling issues is unnecessarily changing the stock fan for a poorly set up electric fan.

Yeah, my money is on tyres and smallest turbos for a motorkhana, even if it is a bit larger course. Not the same for drags though....

You absolutely send it on high boost. It will be the same lag no matter what the peak boost, and more fun when it goes whoosh

Yeah you are pretty OG mate....glad you've hung onto it all that time HGE-33T, it was a great car

Took it for a run up the back way to Bathurst the other day then dropped some friends back at the airport and home. Long day in a car that is more zoomy than cruisey but it did well. However....while pottering through sydney traffic getting the shits about MAP sensors, twin plate clutches and lumpy cams I heard a grating start out of the front brakes. I haven't had the wheels off for a while but I do keep an eye on the pads and they weren't due for replacement Took the front wheels off, driver's side was fine but navigator side has been wearing very unevenly. The wheel bearings seem fine so I assume sticking pistons in the caliper. To be fair, these calipers have been on the car since 2013 and have done some hard days work in that time. The pads were almost due for replacement, probably 30%, the discs measured up at 30.6mm which I'm fine with, but sticking pistons is an issue. There are no dust covers on these calipers and I guess they are intended to be thrown away and replaced. Otherwise the calipers, discs, pads, hardware has all stood up pretty well, so depending on replacement cost for a caliper or 2 they have been good value The disc took a little damage but looks good enough to me to use again

Adding to this, because the miss at idle was back in the Cima. While I did change the plugs (why the hell would you have 8 cylinders!) I also pulled off the throttle body and had a look in the intake.... And the rear of the throttle body was terrible too Ran a can of upper engine cleaner through it as well as cleaning the throttle body itself and changing the plugs and the idle was good again

Ha yeah the bolt supersession is a pain. Happily I've pull apart enough cars to have original driveshaft bolts But I went to get a set of genuine engine/gearbox bolts and had a similar stuff around. I think it relates to the original bolts being cadmium coated and everything zinc now. This is the current part numbers for the engine/gearbox bolts, a couple of them are UD truck not nissan.

I reckon there is a place in the trackday market for data that is easily accessible (ie, you don't need that engineer). I find lots of interesting stuff in the data but generally it is that night rather than between sessions. With this you can clearly scroll through particular parts quickly/easily so that is good. Also you could always put it in a faster mate's car and see what they are doing that you aren't. It's level up but when we did Bathurst 6 hours we had an engineer comparing data from all 6 drivers in 3 similar cars, everyone got something out of it

I've used a dolly like that before (well, not as sturdy), but keep in mind the car will be way less stable on it due to the small wheels and narrow wheelbase. Rolling it on anything but a totally flat floor will be puckering

still pretty hard to follow 🤣

Pretty poor form if an aftermarket bolt doesn't come with the correct torque in the instructions. I'd call the supplier and ask

OK, not dropping by, thanks. I guess you'll be able to sell all that in country pretty easily

lol we paid $40k for our R33 GTST in 2000....was a beautiful condition, 3 years old blue one. can't remember what I sold it for, but not much. Either way, at $$ per track day it was a bargain mate, there would be new skylines owners on these forums from American that weren't even born then...